Arne

Thanks, Stephen. That tends to confirm that the Nikki was OE for late '71s.

I've got the stock height tires on my car. Like you, I prefer the vintage look of the small diameter wheel and tall sidewall. But I'm OK with period mags as long as I can keep the tall tires.

When Gary mentioned 'early Z' in this context, he meant all S30s - '70-78. As he noted, there is no rear alignment adjustments on any 240/260/280Z. But I'm thinking the other way. The 3" gap on the left rear sounds huge to me, even for a 280Z. I'm wondering if the LR strut might be totally or partially seized and holding that corner high. Have you tried bouncing each rear corner by hand?

Yeah, I ended up passing on the NOS wheels I was looking at, I think they're gone now. Decided that I didn't want to go to a shorter tire, which it looked like I would have had to do. Instead I'm refurbing yet another set of 14x6 Appliance Wire mags - this set will have fewer flaws in the polished lip, and will have the center area around the lug nuts painted the same gray color as the tail trim. Getting close on these now.

Good deal! I wouldn't think that someone would cut that off after removing the stock valance parts. That should ease the conversion immensely.

For tune-up specs and procedures, a '71 is the same as a '70, in case that's available online. Or you could use the online manual at Autozone. It's about the same as a Haynes or Clymer. http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528007176d

Basic settings for tune-up and adjustments will be the same as for the original. The electronic ignition does not change how you adjust the timing, nor the spec. Same for the increased displacement of the L28. The actual adjustment of things like the carbs and such may be different, but the method is not.

No Jim, if I wanted a Denki I'd have simply bought a new pump rather than rebuilding the one I have. Like the '73 you have, the history on my car is pretty complete, and I'm comfortable that the Nikki pump on mine is original also. So at this point, we believe that: Edit: I will update these ranges as new data comes in. Nikki is OE for 10/69 - 5/72 Atsugi for 9/72? Ampco is OE for ?/73, possibly also a later replacement Kyosan Denki is a current replacement Anyone else?

You need one. Yes. Yes.

Anyone have any idea how many different suppliers made 240Z mechanical fuel pumps? I ask as I have been preparing to rebuild or possibly replace my original pump, and I'm finding that there appear to have been several OE manufacturers. These days, the new OE-style pumps seem to be made by 'Kyosan Denki'. But my original says 'Nikki', while a spare top cover I received says 'Ampco'. Any others I've missed?

Seems odd to me that someone would go to the trouble of cutting that center mount off the core support. Dang, that's going to complicate the job.

I have no idea when I'd make it to the Houston area, unless USENIX holds a conference like LISA there some day. But if they do, I'll make sure to look you up. :classic:

I've had three different '71s, one Series one and two later cars. I believe that all 6 original door panels had the courtesy lamp holes pre-cut but not removed. Could be wrong about them all having them, but I know for certain that I have seen those personally on at least one of my car's panels.

The Kenwoods I have coming are KFC-1351S.

The original was 5 1/4" round. If you are building your own bracket(s), other sizes may fit. But they can't be too deep nor have too much protrusion to the front (tweeters and such).

Time to take a good look at the parking light fuse. As mentioned above, I believe it is the middle fuse on the right.

After consulting with Dave recently, I ordered a pair of the Kenwoods that he recommended. I expect to get them next week some time. They were all of $21/pair from Amazon.

No, the gauge illumination should work any time the lights are on. But as I recall, the radio light is fixed brightness, while the gauge lights go through the dimmer rheostat. Is the dimmer turned all the way dim (off)?

Changing the points changes the timing. You need to readjust the timing. Do you have a timing light?

My MG is long gone, bought it, restored it, drove it daily for several years, sold it. Your diff will work just fine. Many people prefer to use a lower ratio (higher numerically) with a 5 speed. The factory 4 speed axle ratio is 3.36:1, other common ratios would be 3.54, 3.70, 3.90 and even 4.11. Some of the 5 speeds do have a bit taller lower gears, which is why people change ratios. My advice would be to install the 5 speed and drive it first, see what you like. If the low gears feel too tall, then consider a different ratio. But drive it first.

A good air dam should reduce drag, as they get the tires out of the air stream. But a spook still looks better on a 240Z to me...

I'm going to assume that you don't have a service manual. I'd strongly recommend that you get one soon. But in the meantime, you can use the online manual from AutoZone. Not perfect, but it will do what you need as a stopgap. http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1449501/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800717a1

I hear ya. I put overdrive in my B too. But since mine was a '67 with a good three-synchro 'box, I didn't have to much trouble finding a home for it.You wanna talk about giveaways - the same problem exists with good used L24 engines. No one wants them.

The addition of my ducted spook made a profound improvement in the car's stability at even low highway speeds - even 50-60 MPH. The improvement at 70+ is simply amazing. Crosswinds and passing trucks no longer bother the car. Probably the best single thing I did for the car.

The Club Parts CD: https://www.classiczcars.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=33&osCsid=2f6obvhrakn3sps7bf0otes3b3