Arne

But none of those are the early rounded knob style, even for the choke knob itself, let alone the throttle knob.

We still don't know - was the dash you installed also from the same year? And preferably of a similar month's production? There are many, many wiring differences between the different years, and often even between different build dates of the same year. You could well have a dash harness and switches that aren't compatible.

Didn't know Danny had any cars left. He's been slowly liquidating his stock over the past couple years. I've bought several parts from him since I got my first Z in '05. Glad to hear he still had what you needed.

I really like this option. This is the way I'd go.

The offset IS marked on the wheel, if you know the code. In the picture Carl attached, there is a pad at 3:00 with "ET 15" stamped on it. I can't recall what exactly "ET" stands for, but it really means "offset" in millimeters. So these are +15 mm offset, which will keep them nicely tucked into the fenders.

I'm with DeMoore. Every time I or someone I know has tried to help a guy out by not doing the insurance thing, I/they have gotten burned to some degree or another. Don't know about shops in your area, sorry.

Has a nice stance. Good presence as it shows its taillights to the cars it passes!

This could be tough to pull off while we are in the economic doldrums now. It takes a pretty hefty quantity to get the spring winders to justify running a batch. And it's very tough to get that many people to commit ahead of time. Last time, Courtesy Nissan pulled it off - they bought the whole run, then sold sets to the original group that pre-ordered them and kept the rest to sell to the general public. The state of the auto industry being what it is now, I think it'll be hard for a company like Courtesy to devote that kind of cash to an off-the-wall project like this. Money is simply too tight right now. Which means you'd need to get enough people signed up ahead of time to cover the entire run, and they'd most likely have to pay in advance. And someone will have to coordinate the whole deal, which will take considerable time and effort. I don't know how large a run must be to get the spring winders to do a batch, perhaps Carl knows?

The club CD is a Nissan authorized PDF copy of the Nissan 240/260/280Z parts microfiche. Here is a sample screenshot:

A quick note - after hearing from another member here that his dealer wasn't able to get the check valves, I have confirmed that those valves are now shown as 'back-order' with no ETA. Not known whether any more will be offered in the future.

In theory, the 260Z bumper is/was heaver, reinforced, and I believe thicker top to bottom. I don't think '70-72 bumper guards will fit a 260Z bumper bar. In addition, the license plate mounts were relocated, I believe.

Oops! Forgot. Now I'm trapped in meetings. Maybe tonight.

You might try these guys, a lot of their stuff is the same as those used on 240Zs. Not sure if the radio connector on a 260Z is similar, but it's worth a look. http://www.vintageconnections.com/

I believe mine is flat, Randy. I drove the car to work today, I'll try to remember to look at it during lunch.

The replacement choke cable grommets that I have seen are not correct for '70-71 cars, Randy. I have not yet seen a source for the correct early grommet. Mine is a bit tatty, but I'm staying with it for now in hopes that the correct grommet may become available someday. The attached picture is the one that's currently available from Nissan, not the correct early grommet.

If you should ever decide you don't care for the sunroof, your car can be "un-hacked". I know this first hand.Successful skin graft (roof skin, that is)

Got my new Kenwoods last week, and installed them today. They are adequate for my simple needs, but certainly not anything special. But for use with a stock radio or something like the vintage Pioneer I am using, they are fine.

Thanks, Chris. The addition of your info now makes me think that Stephen's Nikki (see post #4) is not original, but is a later replacement. Same smooth cap, no raised bosses, no stamped numbers, and white paint on the center screw rather than the yellow of the originals. Very interesting!

Even with the part numbers? If you give them part numbers, I should think they'd order for you.

I suspect the drag on the cam is so little as to be un-noticeable. Try this for the block-off plate: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PP1/10-2081

Try it now. I re-uploaded the image.

For those of us with original fuel pumps on our 240 and 260Zs, those pumps are now at least 35 years old. Obviously, if they haven't yet been replaced, the time of need can't be far away. In most cases, the obvious answer is to simply replace the pump, either with a new mechanical pump or convert to a modern electric pump. But the original pumps were designed to be rebuildable. For those of us with restored or original survivor cars, rebuilding the original pump is one way to retain some of the car's originality. It's also surprisingly affordable. Of course, it's not as easy as it used to be. Many of the parts shown below are no longer available from Nissan. But the critical parts are. The diaphragm and the check valves are the parts that wear, and those are still available, as of February 2009. [B]17053-E3010[/B] - Diaphram - need one - #11 in [B][COLOR="Red"]red[/COLOR][/B] below [B]17065-21016[/B] - Check valves - need two - #7 in [B][COLOR="Blue"]blue[/COLOR][/B] below [B]17099-E3012[/B] - Pump to head gaskets - need two - #17 in [B][COLOR="Yellow"]yellow[/COLOR][/B] below In addition to those parts (which cost me $15 with my club discount), you'll want to have a couple of fuel resistant o-rings on hand to replace the seals shown as #8 above. Those seals were NLA, but my little o-ring selection had an appropriate replacement in it. But bear this in mind if you need to depend on getting this done in one operation - the old seals appear to have been cork, and will not be reusable. The new ones I used were square-cut, 3/4" O.D., 5/8" I.D., 1/16" thick. They worked perfectly. As for the process, it's very simple. I didn't take any pictures, but follow along with the diagram above. Remove the pump from the cylinder head. Then separate the upper and lower body halves (6 screws at the diaphragm seal). Once separated, remove the diaphragm from the lower body. You will need to depress the center of the diaphragm down (against the spring pressure) and then out (away from the cylinder head side) to disconnect it from the cam follower in the lower body half. Once disconnected, remove it carefully so as not to damage the shaft seal (under the spring, not shown above). The replacement diaphragm has a pair of flats on the end of the shaft to ease the installation. Insert it with the flats oriented to the front and rear, push down against the spring while holding the cam follower in the extended position, then turn the diaphragm 90 degrees to engage the shaft into the cam follower. The valves are both in the upper body. Note that one is face up, the other face down. Make note of which is which, because if you get them wrong, the pump will not work. Remove the retaining plate (#9) after removing the two small screws that clamp it down. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, remove the valves. (I did mine one at a time to make certain not to mix them up.) Most likely part of the cork seal will come with the valve and the rest will remain in the seat. Carefully (don't damage the housing) remove all of the cork remains. Try not to let any fall into the upper cavity. If it gets in there, you'll want to get it back out to keep it from either clogging the pump valve or being pumped into one of the carbs, depending on which side it fell into. If necessary, remove the top cap (5 screws) to get into the cavity, being careful not to damage the rubber gasket under the top cap. Install the new o-ring seals, then the valves. Re-install the retainer and screws. Test the correct valve placement by gently blowing into the inlet pipe, and then attempt to suck back on the inlet. If you got the valve correct, you should not be able to suck back on it, but blowing through should be easy. The outlet pipe should be the opposite. To re-combine the two body halves, first make certain that the screw holes in the diaphragm are pretty much lined up with the holes in the lower body. Operate the cam follower arm to pull the diaphragm down flush, then set the upper body in place and secure it with one of the screws. (A third hand can be handy here. Another option would be to re-install the lower body back on the cylinder head and turning the engine by hand until the diaphragm is pulled down.) Continue with the other 5 screws, don't over-tighten them. Once assembled, operate the cam follower arm a few times, you should be able to hear it pumping air. Clean both sides of the pump spacer (#16) before installing the new gaskets (#17). Bolt it back to the cylinder head, attach the fuel lines and you are done. This will work well as long as the diaphragm and valves are still available. Another option for people bent on originality might be to purchase a brand new Kyosan Denki pump and transfer all its new parts into the original body. A bit more expensive, but perhaps worth it for some people. This post has been promoted to an article

Last spring when I painted my car, my dealer said there were several of the tinted-band Nissan windshields available. I had no problems at all finding a new, non-tinted-band aftermarket windshield.

All true. However, if the part in question is a Nissan part, it is probably still available directly from your local Nissan dealer. Generally no shipping charges, and (in my experience) often even cheaper yet than MSA. Don't get me wrong, I do buy parts from MSA. But I always check with my dealer first for OE parts. The classifieds and reviews are separate modules, I don't think they can easily be integrated into the "New posts" listing.But in the case of the Classifieds, you can subscribe to an RSS feed that will let you know whenever there is a new ad posted. To me, that's even better than the "New Posts" listing.

Here in the US, new Nissan windshield (when available) now have a darker tinted band across the top which the original 240Z glass do not have. I also suspect the markings will be different than the original, but can't say for certain. Since good used original glass is hard to find, and easily damaged in shipping, I went with an aftermarket windshield when I replaced mine. I didn't want the tinted band at the top.