Arne

No, all of the currently available angled stems are too long. I keep hoping to find someone who has a set of these wheels that are beat up and going to be scrapped that still has the stems, because they're the only ones that work correctly. As for the stems you have in yours, any good tire shop should have replacement sealing grommets for them. When you have your next set of tires mounted have them remove the stems and replace the grommets and you'll be fine. Similarly, changing tires on those old Appliances is no more difficult than on any similar vintage mag. Any good shop should be able to do it without damage. I know from experience - I sold and serviced tires and similar mags for over 20 years. Sold lots of those Appliances back in the day, albeit most that I sold were the RotoLug style.

As far as I can see, Massey may be the only place left who has the 4-ear screw-on caps.

No, those are Appliances, for certain. I've got two sets (8 wheels) just like them. (Still looking for 3 more of those funny little angled valve stems. PM me if you have any to spare!) Your wheels may or may not have the Appliance logo cast in the back side, depending on production date. Mine don't have the logo, but do say 'JAPAN' cast in the back. (Many of the early Wire Mags were cast under contract in Japan. Later wheels were cast in California.) Appliance went to Roto-Lugs in the mid-to-late '70s. Prior to that they used relatively normal mag shank lug nuts, the only oddity was that the shanks were a bit shorter than typical - 0.55". So yours are the earlier style, that's all. There are still a couple of suppliers for these medium shank lug nuts, or some people just use normal mag shank nuts with double washers.

I split this part off into a separate thread. It's deserving. While I was at it, I looked at the cap on my car. It is also the same as Chris' or EvilC's cap. 7/71 build date.

For my F4W71A I bought bearings from a local bearing supplier. Everything else - seals, gaskets, synchro rings, shims, woodruff keys and sized snap rings - I got from my Nissan Dealer.

Yup, that sounds like a Type B, as used from '72-78. My parts list won't help on that one, about the only thing that's the same are the synchro rings. Another way to tell is whether the bell housing is separate, or cast as part of the main case. The F4W71A has a separate, bolt-on bell housing, the F4W71B's bell housing is part of the main case. So is your tunnel opening enlarged, or has your shift lever been customized to allow it to work in the earlier tunnel opening?

To be even more clear - if your 4 speed's chrome shift lever is straight, and bolts through a pair of rubber bushings in the linkage on the transmission, it is an F4W71A. If the lever is bent and has plastic bushings that mount in a hole for the lever to pivot upon, it is the later Type B 4 speed.

Hugh, the Type A is correct for your car, and is the one with the goofy shift linkage, AKA "monkey-motion" shifter. Mine is pictured below. I rebuilt mine about 18 months ago. I'll dig up my parts notes and post what I used and where I got them later tonight.

Really, it's not that difficult. I remove mine every time I wax the car.

You don't have to use the original heatshield, but as Bruce notes, you WILL want a heatshield of some sort there.

Pull the emblems off, install the stripes, use a sharp exacto knife to cut the emblem holes through the stripe, re-install the emblems. Nothing to it.

To the best of my knowledge, there are no replacement radiators with the fan guard. Your best bet is to find a old-fashioned radiator shop who will re-core an original. Finding a shop willing to do that is getting harder, and if you find one it'll cost you more than any replacement. Most shops don't want to solder and braise anymore, all they want to do is replace. But when needed, I will have my original repaired, not replaced, no matter how much more it might cost.

Jerry Purcell may already have the original style in red. I know he does black and white. Either way, I'm certain he already has the correct pattern. The originals were not as shown in the picture you attached, the logo was cut out of the strip, not the other way around. Like in mally02's sig pic, which I load below. Either way, you might want to send Jerry a PM at JLPurcell.

There is a mounting tab welded to the hatch opening, but the actual support bracket is bolted to the welded tab. Once the lower support is unbolted, the welded tab is smaller and has no protrusions on the back side. Your panel should be able to flex enough to go in then.

Master cylinder ports had already changed by '72, only the '70-71 cars had the reversed ports. This should not be your issue.

Those look like rear calipers from an early Maxima, or something similar. A very common rear disc conversion part. The Toyota 4x4 calipers are used on the front to give four piston front brakes, rather than the stock two piston units from a normal Z.

Steve, could you (or Toni) take a picture of the rear from straight behind the car for me? I'd like to see how well you were able to get the big oval muffler tucked up in there. Did the install of the system give you any problems?

Hard to say from here. Pictures make it appear that all the stuff that should be cad plated under the hood have been painted gold. And the console is not for a '71 either, so maybe the hubcaps are correct and it's really a '72?

A seller with 0 feedback and a stupid asking price? I figured it was a scam from the beginning. And as of this morning, the auction is gone, pulled by eBay.

American still sells some of their classic caps. Like this one? http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=areacc&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=626552760&Count2=543693184

No Michelins. Bridgestone and Toyo for sure, and Yokohama for some years.

No Wyatts come immediately to mind.

Toyo was an alternate supplier to Nissan for earlier cars, and probably for later Zs as well. The 702 model is about the correct vintage, so as a guess I'd say it's original.

The '70-72 are all the same. The '73 is a bit different in mounting points, I believe.

I dunno, Mike. Maybe #32 is the oddball. My Series 1 (RIP) only had two holes on the right side as well, so that looks to be consistent with these two early cars. (My Series 2 has 3 holes on both sides.) But my yellow car had the exact same crease near the left bumper mount. The yellow car showed no other evidence of damage there, so I always assumed it was a stamping artifact.