Arne

You can get the larger 1.75" stickers that have the red/blue Datsun logo, but -- so far -- not the "Z" logo. I went with the 1.5" "Z" logo even though it is a bit too small, still looks pretty good unless you get really close to it.

Works for me, although I get an auto-redirect to http://www2.zhome.com:81/

The Eagle caps sold by Massey or Summit fit Appliance wheels perfectly. To me, they are a better option than painting the originals. Easy for me to say though, as I didn't have any caps at all for mine. But the Eagle caps are the correct size, and even very similar in shape to the original Appliance caps. I applied a set of the 1.5" "Z" emblems to mine, as shown in post 28. Summit Racing sells the Eagle caps cheaper than Massey does. The link to Summit is in post 27 in this thread.

The hatch support cylinder mounts with two bolts to the hatch itself. On the body end, there should have been a mount tab welded to the body that has a single hole in it. The cylinder has a pivoting bracket that bolts into the mounting tab. I attached the only picture I could find of the body tab.

Autozone has them for $48 ($44 after core exchange), or Schucks sells them for $39 ($31 after exchange).

1.) Yes. 2.) Right 41000-N7600, left 41010-N7600. About $95 each from Courtesy Nissan. My dealer gives me about the same price. Should be able to get reman from most any parts house for half or less. 3.) If they are still original, I'd recommend replacing them, either with steel or even new rubber. Steel should give slightly firmer pedal feel, but for street use rubber is generally fine. 4.) Calipers should ALWAYS be replaced or rebuilt in matched pairs. 5.) I've used Axxis/PBR (formerly Repco) deluxe on my street cars for years. Quiet, easy on rotors, reasonably durable. Not suitable for track use, but should be fine for spirited road use.

Alternator Condenser - 27984-B0701, $2.11 Courtesyparts.com

The bracket is part of the condenser.

Steve, I drive my '71 at least a couple of times per week. Mine has about 100k fewer miles than yours, and therefore probably more original. But my end goal is and has been to keep the car mostly stock looking, and definitely looking period correct. Most of my mods are easily reversible, if I should ever so desire. Here's the list so far, with notes. Front spook - Or some other type of air dam, adds needed stability at highway speeds. H4 headlights - Gotta be able to see after dark. Wiring relays and upgrades - No use having better lights if the stock wiring and fusebox can't keep up. Electronic ignition - Either Pertronix in the OE dizzy (if it's not worn out) or a good ZX ignition is a big plus. Consider at least a higher output coil, if not a CDI like a MSD. Stereo - Totally a personal thing. I'm using a period Pioneer AM/FM/Cassette in mine, some people will want something more modern. Higher output alternator - Stock is marginal after you've added all of the above. I've got a 60 amp ZX unit in mine. Exhaust - I am more into sound and appearance than added performance, but a nice exhaust does add to the driving experience. Suspension - Mild mods can give good results without too much compromise. I've got KYBs with Euro springs cut to give a very slightly lower than stock ride height. Many like Eibachs with KYBs or Tokicos for a lower than stock stance. Wheels and tires - If you already have a set of period 14" mags that you are happy with, that's no problem for a driver, as long as you are aware that your selection of tires will be limited. If you don't have wheels that you like, I'd consider 15" or 16" for best future tire availability.

Several reasons. The first is obvious - not that many sold in that single year offered here in the USA, not compared to 240Zs and 280Zs. Also, some 240Z owners look down on them because they came with crappy carbs and bigger bumpers. But in reality, there were enough improvements in the rest of the car that once you deal with the carbs, a 260Z makes a great daily driver.

Have you opened the kit from BD yet? The complete kit I got from MSA last year had all of that in it, except the first two.

Don't breathe it in - I suspect the white stuff could be lead buildup.

I'm 52 now, and the 240Zs I've had these past 3.5 years (2 parted, 1 keeper) are "my" first Datsuns. But lots of Datsuns that weren't mine in my past. My wife had a '74 B210 when we got married in '77. While we planned to take my car on our honeymoon, my car broke a few days before the wedding, so the B210 was taken instead. Would that small sedans these days routinely got 40+ MPG like that car did. Plenty of other Datsuns with family and friends in those days. Several pickups (520, 620 and a couple 720s), a 280Z, later 210 and a 610 come to mind. I test drove a new 280Z w/5 speed in '78, but at 21 with plenty of speeding tickets under my belt, I couldn't afford to insure it.

OK, I see what you were looking at. The retainers (welded to the floor pan) were added very early - even 12746 had those. But the clips "apparently" weren't supplied until #77533.

My car has the carpet retainers, always has, apparently. Nice red paint and covered in the factory's spray adhesive just like everything else in that area. HLS30-37702, 7/71...

That picture sure seems to confirm it to me, for factory bushings the sleeves must come out.

Good price, but that doesn't look like a "euro" bumper to me. Just looks like a normal US-spec (Deluxe) bumper with the rubber removed.

Gary, I believe that you keep the sleeve for poly bushings, but that new Nissan bushings have the sleeve bonded to the new bushing. So for factory bushings, the sleeve must come out. Do you have the new bushings yet? If not, simply leave the sleeve in place until you get them and you can see for yourself. Can't get hurt that way.

As promised...

Lights aren't on, the camera flash on the reflectors did that.

I'm with Mike on this one. My car is a late '71 - but I would really like to have a hand throttle. Not even remotely close to correct for my car's build date, but I'd like one anyway. Should I be allowed to buy and install one?

I'm not much into the "judging" scene, but IMO if the rules say they can't deduct points for an obviously later but factory replacement part, you shouldn't get a deduction for a truly accurate repro of a rare and/or NLA (from Nissan) part. Take the wood shift knobs as a not-so-rare example. Buy a new one from Nissan today and it is obviously not the same part as was used when the cars were new. Probably even made by a different company than who made the originals. But if I understand the rules correctly, you won't get a deduction for having one, as they are the "correct" "factory" replacement, no matter how obviously wrong they look. But if there was a truly accurate repro, one that was the same size as original, had the same font on the plastic shift pattern disk and suchlike so that it truly looked like an original, why should that be a deduction? Because it was made by an enthusiast who thought that original looks was more important than whether Nissan has blessed it? My 2$. Since I don't ever intend on putting my car under that kind of scrutiny, it is all moot to me. But for me personally, I prefer cars that look correct, even if some of the parts are repro.

Part #110 for 240Zs is the same way - one size fits all, both auto and stick. Pretty normal for aftermarket radiators these days.

My resistor is bypassed, but still mounted in place. And I'm using a Pertronix coil, but it is mounted in the factory coil bracket. As Gary noted, the resistor is mounted horizontally, just under the coil. It mounts using the same bolt as the lower ear of the coil bracket - it just bolts in place, doesn't 'clip' to it in any way. I can't find a picture of that part of the car right now - I'll try to remember to grab the camera and post one after I get home this evening.

Greg, were the rotors turned while in place on the car? Have you measured the rotor runout on the car with everything installed? In all my years of brake work, this has ALWAYS been a rotor issue. I can't quite see how a geometry problem could cause a violent shake.