Arne

My first '71 had an '83 ZX injected motor in it, and it was a mess. Not because the injection is inherently bad (it's not), but because the guy who swapped it in didn't take the time or effort to do it right. As Rob said, there's a whole lot of things to add or change to use the injection in a 240Z. I agree with Rob that it will be far simpler to use the 280Z motor with a set of 240Z carbs.

I don't think that's possible with this type of antenna.

215s or 225s may fit with the 7" on the rear, depending on the brand. (The width part of the size is an approximation, and actual width will vary.) 205s will probably be fine regardless of brand.

My original, unrestored '71 (7/71 b.d.) did/does not have a seal there. That leading edge of the window frame is painted black. There are small glued-on rubber trims at the bottom, as I recall. No pictures handy right now, I'll try to remember to take pictures later tonight. I think I recall that they didn't start using a seal there until much later than '71.

Yeah, once I found it I could see the logic of it, but I kept figuring that since it screws into the cylinder head, that's where it would be listed. Wrong.

I don't think so now, but I can't rule it out. Actually, I refuse to own a car that I only use that sparingly. All of my previous project/hobby cars have been driven daily, used as normal transportation, in addition to being weekend entertainment. My 240Z is no different. I drive it when I want to, to work a few times a week, and if it rains, no big deal.I enjoy restoring and working on my cars, and making them conform to my vision of what they should be. In the past, I sometimes have gotten bored with a car once it was "done". That's a sure sign of it being time to move on. Which actually bodes well for my keeping the Z for a long while, even once it is "done". (It's not there yet, BTW.) Because when this last time came to pick a project, I had a whole list of criteria to try to make certain I'd buy a car that I could live with for a while. The 240Z best met all my criteria, so maybe it is THE car I'll finish with. Hard to say right now. Yeah, that pretty much describes it for me as well. I don't even have to drive it, just going into the garage and dinking around with it, or even just looking at it is pleasurable. But once that magic goes away (if it does), there's no point in hanging on.

They list it as a heater part. Go figure.

Yeah, I had a hell of a time finding that part on the Parts CD. It was shown someplace totally off the wall like in electrical, or something equally stupid. Part number is 27195-E4400.

Got you covered, Bob.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-280Z-Datsun-Rear-Spindle-Pin-Strut-Pin-Puller_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem120394103277QQitemZ120394103277QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_500wt_1218 Built by a club member here. I've used one, it does the job.

Not with stock gearing and stick diameter tires, no. Mine turns less than 3000 RPM at 60 MPH. Road & Track reported revs/mile (60 MPH) as 2850 in 1970.

The few remaining that haven't rusted away by then, yes.

I've been there on this one. A '73 harness is considerably different than any of the '70 harnesses. Of which there were several variations, I should add. After all my research, I'd say that if you need to replace the wiring in a '70 and want to use as many of the original electrical components as possible, you want to use no later than a '71, say 8/71 build date. And you'll want the entire harness, all three of the main pieces. If you use one later than 1/71 build date, you'll need the matching short pigtail fusebox to go with it.

Unless you can get some of those people who may have stocked up while they were still available to part with a set, you may have to build an alternative from some other car or source. I don't know of anywhere to get them new now.

Sorry, Michael, that came across much harsher than I intended. I understood the sentiment you were posting, Stephen's knowledge is great and his help here is well appreciated.My point was that every time someone posts about their desire/need to sell their Z(s), everyone posts about how wrong that is, try to keep it, you'll regret it later, etc. But we need to acknowledge that for some people, selling is the correct thing to do, and help and support them in this every bit the same as when we attempt to help them with a problem. Saying, "No! Don't sell!" isn't helping.

Rubber bushings are still available, or were in the summer of '07 when I last bought a pair. Part #32853-22000, were less than $2 each.

I see them every now and again on evilBay. I don't think I have a spare lever to go with my spare early transmission, but will check.

No, really he doesn't have to. This is life. Things change. No one else can judge what is appropriate for others. If Stephen, I or others decide the time has come to move on, then the time has come. End of story.While I have no thoughts right now about selling my 240Z, the reality is that my motor vehicle obsessions tend to last 5-8 years, and then I sell and move on to something else. FWIW - I'm well into year my fourth year of Z ownership now...

Sorry for not posting this sooner. June 13-14th. You've got two months, Brian...

Joe, living here in Oregon as I do, I think I've seen your car at a show or two in person. And while the build quality looks impressive, getting that kind of money for it - especially in today's market - will be very difficult. The problem is that when selling a heavily modified car like yours, finding the right buyer is very hard. You have to find someone who shares your vision for the car, but can't (or doesn't want to) build it him/herself. For someone to be willing to pay that much for the car, EVERYTHING will need to be acceptible to the buyer. Any small thing that the buyer doesn't care for – color, stripes, flares, anything – will be enough to either squash the deal, or force a significant price reduction. All this is despite the obvious fact that there is no possible way that one could build a similar car for the money that you are asking. As I said, to sell this car for anywhere close to your price, you are going to have to find a buyer for whom the car is their dream. My advice is to not limit yourself when advertising it. You need to hit the very widest audience to have a reasonable chance of finding your buyer. I'd use eBay (fixed price or high reserve) and any other nationwide venue you can think of. You can't overlook any possibilities to find your buyer. Good luck!

That's what it sounds like to me, too. It's been a LOOOONG time since I've had a car that dieseled. Seems to me that a timing change might fix it as well. Can't seem to recall this morning which way to go though... :stupid:

How long did it run after switching the key off before it stumbled and died? 5 seconds? 15? More?

Hard to say just yet, I haven't even confirmed that I can make it. Still working on it. We out here feel badly for you. Here's photos of a typical Fall drive here in Oregon.Mary's Peak Fun Run Most of the activities are based farther North' date=' that's for sure. Brian (azcarbum) tried to get a Eugene-based club started a couple years ago. No real success. He moved to Central Oregon, and not much has happened down here since then. I tried to put together a drive up the McKenzie in the Fall of '07, got one other local Z, and 4 from Portland to show up.[img']http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/images/zs-in-lava.jpg

Can't do both days. Might be able to drive up on Saturday, maybe meeting the group at Maryhill Museum for lunch and the return back on 14.

No, the four wire tach was the early style. Your '73 should have a three wire.