Arne

Well, if we assume that Fort Worth Meacham International Airport is not a logical meaning, it must be this one...http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=ftw

Honestly didn't pay much attention to the dimes at Canby last year. Looked at other Zs and chatted with friends.

I'm pretty certain your first picture is the same car, Mike. That has the same modern leather sport seats, and the red cam cover shown in some of the pictures of the car for sale.

Still getting used to the thought of the gear on the end of the countershaft being removable. I was rather surprised to see that when I rebuilt my Type A. Used to working on British gearboxes up until then. Most of those have a one-piece countershaft (or layshaft in Brit-speak).

Good catch, Phillip. I hadn't thought about the tooth count being different. Shoot, if the count is different the teeth probably wouldn't mesh properly anyway.

No, I have no real interest or need. Just curious.

The valve cover breather should vent into an air cleaner, as should the two vent hoses off the carb float bowls. Don't plug any of those. You have probably already removed the air pump, so the other big hose of the back of the factory airbox is probably already gone. Did you install ram tubes (air horns) inside your new aftermarket air filters? If not, you may have actually hurt the performance, not helped it. The SU carbs need an air horn to smooth the airflow. Without them, the metering is not as steady as it should be. Too much turbulence inside the carb throat. The air horns built into the factory airbox are actually very efficient, the carbs will work better with the factory box and horns than it will with aftermarket filters w/o horns.

Thread was dead for over 3 years when Guncarver posted to it. MikeZcar hasn't visited the site in more than 6 months.

No, I don't recall ever seeing anything like that based on a Z unibody. By the time you build and apply the gussets and reinforcements that such a cut-up unibody would require, you would probably be better off to start from scratch and build a tube frame instead.

When you say "early 4 speed" I'm assuming you mean the Type A with external shift linkage as used in the US in '70 and '71 only. If that is correct, I'd say probably not, as the bearing and front mounting are different between those two types. You might be able to use one from a later 4 speed though.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/1146506836.html Anyone familiar with it? Is it licensed by BRE? Or an unlicensed knock-off? How well executed is it? Text of ad and link to pics - contact info removed.

An 8" wheel with +10 has too much backside (~4 7/8") and the tire will not clear the spring. Hence the requirement for spacers, to add some clearance there The stock 240Z wheel studs (front and rear) are relatively short, and the addition of most any spacers will often require longer studs to be truly "correct". As a rule of thumb, you should have a minimum thread engagement that is the same as the stud diameter. So for a 240Z with 12mm studs, you should have at least 12mm of stud available past the lug seat on the wheel. Call it 1/2" minimum in theory, and in real life figure on needing 15mm (~5/8").

Both pinned.

Courtesy's prices are generally already discounted off of normal Nissan list price.

I'll bet that there's not more than a few hundred truly active posters, and maybe a couple thousand who visit regularly but never post. So 0.7% might be a mite misleading. And you need to have a Google login of some sort to post on the map. I can certainly understand if people really don't want to share any info with Google. After all, that what Google exists to do - data mine. I'm pretty fussy about what info I let Google have knowingly. If others are even more fussy, that's OK. You've been pinned...

I've merged the threads.Please don't start more than one thread on the same topic, Broken74, it tends to confuse things.

Ignition module on the '83 should be the E12-93 with three terminals, a pair at the top and a single on one side. The single side terminal is the one that gets a signal from the ECU. Two options for that - either replace with an E12-80 module, or I've heard that if you simply provide the side terminal with 12v (switched with the ignition) you should be OK. You'll want a relay and fuse/breaker protected circuit for the pump, ideally switched with both ignition and oil pressure for safety. Should be fairly simple to wire that up, no different than adding an electric pump to an early 240Z.

Which is one reason so much of what I buy comes from my local Nissan dealer. No shipping charges, they give me a club discount (about equal to Courtesy or Nissanparts online pricing), and since there's no sales tax in Oregon, they are frequently the best price. Plus I get factory parts, never aftermarket.

Up to 105 pins now. No activity for a while. Is this all?

Randy, late to the thread here, but I thought I'd add that my red car also runs a bit hotter than I'd prefer, assuming we can trust the gauge. (Big assumption). Like yours, it typically runs a bit on the hot side of the middle. That is with a new (factory Nissan) 180 degree thermostat, and a new temperature sender. I still have the original two-row radiator, but have changed to a slightly larger (and lighter) 260Z plastic fan. My climate is cooler than yours, I typically use some antifreeze, but not 50/50. I'm due to change the coolant this Spring anyway, so I plan to use Water Wetter and a coolant mix of 33/67 or so to try to get the temps down a bit.

See post #6 in this very thread.

In addition to those mentioned here, I get a large majority of my parts at my local Nissan Dealer. Some dealers don't seem to be able to look up early Z parts anymore (mine has no problems with that), but if you have the club parts list CD and give them the part numbers, there's a surprising amount of stuff still available from the factory.

And to find your member number, click on your screen name and open your own profile. Them look at the URL of your profile in the address bar. The number at the end is your member number. The "u=xxxxx" part.

The discount isn't always a full 10%, and doesn't normally apply to sale items. But hey, a discount is a discount.

If you ever decide you can live without that second set of 15" LeMans, you know who to call....