Arne

Not all of them are flat lens. My Cibiés have a convex lens like a sealed beam. The lens fluting is much different, though. I'm not convinced about the "easier on the eyes" bit. There are plusses and minuses to the blue color from the driver's perspective, far more technical than what we probably want to go into here. And there is a huge difference in the type of "blue" light delivered by a tinted bulb as opposed to the "bluish" light of a true HID.Blue tinted bulbs were designed for people who wanted the look of true HIDs in their cars that use halogen bulbs. Simple as that. Just for marketing and to satisfy an appearance desire. Blue tinted bulbs have several drawbacks. The first is that ANY tint of any color reduces the bulb's effective output. Compare a blue-tinted 55/60 to a clear 55/60 of the same brand and the clear will have more output. Can't be otherwise. Remember that blue-tinting doesn't "tint" the light output, but in reality it blocks certain non-blue wavelengths, mostly yellows and reds. So less light gets out. Of course, you can compensate for this by using higher wattage bulbs as Dave is doing. Another drawback is that because some of the light is blocked by the tint, the bulbs run slightly hotter, and therefore the service life may be slightly reduced. Worst from the viewpoint of an oncoming driver is that the blue wavelengths are the ones that are hardest to control, and scatter the worst. That's why the sky or deep lakes are blue. So even when used in a high quality E-code light, there is noticeably more glare and light scatter. Highly annoying to oncoming traffic. Just my personal opinion, but I'd be happy if there were no such thing as tinted bulbs. Because

1.) Blue tinted bulbs are a sales gimmick. The blue tint does not help, and can only hinder light output.2.) Those are clear lens "Multi-Surface Reflector" lights (MSRs). If they are properly and precisely designed, and built with exacting precision, MSRs can aim and control the light output as well as or even better than a normal refractive (fluted lens) headlight. Problem is that all these cheap MSRs from China and Taiwan are neither designed nor built with the necessary precision. No way these lights will be the equal of a true high quality E-code light such as Hella, Cibié or Bosch to name a few of the good ones. Over the past 30+ years that I've been using E-code H4 lights in my vehicles, I've personally used at least 10 different brands in the 7" round size, and I always end up coming back to those three. That said, ANY halfway decently assembled H4 light will be better than sealed beams. 3.) Halos are a personal preference, have no bearing on light output. I personally think they are tacky looking gimmicks, even on the BMWs that come with them from the factory. (And I even own a BMW.) But if you like them, it's your car.

Top right is a rearview mirror mount.

The reason you've not gotten an answer is that most of the people here who rebuild their own engines here don't buy "kits", they pick and choose the parts individually. So it is very likely that no one has any experience with this kit to share.

My experience is the same as Will's, no one is willing to pay much if anything at all for an L24, no matter how good it is. Granted, lots of the used L24s you see unsold are old and tired, but there's plenty available that are solid, good running motors. And by the time you add the cost of shipping... Best bet is to find a Z or Datsun club whose membership is within driving distance and try to find a buyer there. If that doesn't work, you may have to (sadly) part it out.

I'm with Julio on this. The older cars look best with tall sidewalls and small rims, IMO.If you do go 17", to not look silly the car needs to be lowered like the one in the post above. Visually, the fender gap should be no larger than the sidewalls. So the lower profile you go, the less fender gap you want to keep things optically pleasing. 17" on my car that is almost stock height would look monumentally stupid, but when lowered enough to suit the tire height (as pictured above), they don't look out of place at all.

Thanks for the clarification, E. I can never seem to remember how to do it. All I know is that trying to do a pair in series (the way most people try it) doesn't work.

The main connector has power, ground, dash lights and speaker wires. The speaker answer is the same as above. Two normal speakers cannot be used. Too little resistance and the internal amp goes "poof". My answer to this issue was to pack the original in the closet and install a vintage Pioneer Supertuner instead. Vintage looks, better sound, two speakers. All good.

The three wire connector is not the speaker, but is for the power antenna. It is possible to power two speakers with that radio, but the speakers need to be selected very carefully to prevent blowing out the amp. I don't recommend it.

I don't think it will feel different unless you have one stiff mother of a pressure plate that takes both feet to push. There's just not enough pressure in a clutch line to cause any appreciable swelling in a normal hose in good condition. The feel problem is probably due to the leak. Fix that and you should be as good as it gets.

But the larger question is -- why? The clutch hose is not under the kind of pressure that a brake hose has to deal with. The amount of hose flex on a rubber clutch hose in good condition is minimal. I would think that replacing it with a stainless covered teflon hose will not affect the clutch feel in any noticeable way.

Additionally, there are differences in the shifter location between the early ('70-71) and late ('72-73) styles for 240Z. Swapping between early and late styles on a 240Z may require mods in this area. I think (but don't take this as gospel) that the later style will fit all 240Z, but the early will not fit the later without some trimming.

I think I'm going, not sure if my wife will make it. We're here for you whenever you make it up this way, Adam...

According to the NW-Z event calendar, this year's S&S is Aug. 29th, same venue.

I understand the sentiment on this, but for your average Z owner and strictly for street use, the selection of 15" tires is just fine. About the same as 16", actually, as the very best track-capable tires are often not available in sizes smaller than 17".Also, your typical street-tuned S30 (with suspension mods as noted in this thread) can't really make full use of the really good, modern tires anyway. Too dang wide. So as noted here, there are still plenty of pretty darn good high-performance tires made in 225/50-15. Now for 14", that's a totally different story....

Prepare it the same as you would with any fiberglass part. I'm not a painter, so I can't recommend what grit to use, but no different than any other auto painting project. Last post I saw here with satin black on his spook said he used Krylon, and it looked great...

225/60-15 are rather tall, 2 sizes taller than stock. Add in the extra width and lowering the car, and I suspect that you could have some rubbing. 205/60-15 are about stock height. If you want more width, many like 225/50-15, although that size is a bit shorter than stock. Either of those will probably fit a lowered 280Z without issues. I've used Toyo Proxes tires on various cars for years. Had the "Proxes 4" on the BMW, liked them a lot.

Doing a cam right will be $500+. A header won't help all that much without the cam. Dynomax sounds OK to me, but I'm looking into different options that might emphasize the inline 6 sound. Leaning towards Magnaflow at this point. That's not going to happen once you swap in the V8. When they hear you, they're going to think "Camaro".

Probably not, if they are hardwired into the harness...

Rob is right, it can be fixed. Here on the West coast though, most people would consider that much rust to be terminal, unless that car was low-VIN, had family sentimental value, or something else special about it. But in your part of the country? Finding a project that's a better starting point might be tough.

I wonder that all the time, Carl. With today's techniques and technology, it should be a piece of cake to build a lightweight two seater that has more performance than any of us need, and could probably get 35 MPG on the highway while doing it. It could be done. But the automakers don't think they can make enough money on cheap cars, so they don't really want to build that car. Instead they want to pork it up so they can sell it for $25-30k.

10mmx1.25.

Rich, I think you'll find that if you remove the yellow sticker from the new radiator cap, underneath you'll find that it has stamped lettering that is very similar in looks to the original. It will say "REMOVE SLOWLY" on one side, and either "TIGHTEN" or some Japanese characters on the other. See this thread for some examples: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33600

New will be tough to find, other than from your Nissan dealer. While there are plenty of newer cars that have the same bolt pattern in 14", they are all FWD and won't fit a Z. Realistically, you are going to be limited to wheels from '72 or newer Z (all 14x5), a non-turbo ZX (14x5.5), or perhaps a RWD Maxima/810. Not much else newer that will both fit the car and your hubcaps.

15" gunmetal Konigs.