Arne
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Everything posted by Arne
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First, the definition of a sports car is personal, and has changed over the decades. When I was young, sports cars not only were 2-seaters, they were all convertibles. A "sports car" without a convertible top was laughed at. And if number are all that matters, look at MGBs. 500,000 sold in 17 years. One model, basically unchanged for that whole period. Of course, trying to sell late 50's technology into the '80s is why MG died off. -
I looked at the pictures in your gallery. Those are probably 14x5.5 aftermarket slot mags, unknown maker without more info and pictures of the back side. Not "stock" in any way. But they should fit your car fine. Those tires should be OK size as well, that's the size I am running. Damn! I just noticed that the wheels you pictured appear to have the oddball angled valve stems I need for my wheels! (Still need 3 more.) How come I can never find any of those!
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Because KYB says not to use their struts with lowering springs. I ignored that warning once in the past (a non-Datsun) and the struts were worthless after 6 months use. The theory is that KYBs aren't designed to withstand the extra work caused by having less than the stock suspension travel. Here's hoping that yours will hold up longer than mine did.
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Sorry I didn't see this earlier. You probably could get what you needed from http://www.vintageconnections.com/
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Go to your local Nissan parts department and order part #13015-W0400, list price about $10. You'll also need the matching longer bolt, part #13012-W0400 for about $4. Or you can order these from any of the online dealers such as Courtesy, NissanParts.cc, etc. But that's also assuming that your L28 head will accept the mechanical pump, many will not. Some of the later heads don't have the hole in the side of the head machined. Better check that before you order any parts.
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Well, interest seems to have topped out at this point, at about half of what I was told we need. I'll leave this poll open through the holiday weekend (here in the USA), and then contact the manufacturer to see what options we might have at this level (if any).
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Jody, in North America the original wheels for all 240Zs were painted steel with chrome and gray hubcaps. Since they were steel, there were no "casting" numbers, but the size and other data (including the production date) were stamped into the face of the wheel. The width change was in '72, not '71, so your '71 would have come from the factory with the original 14x4.5" wheels and the early style hubcaps. From '72 through '78 the steel wheels were 14x5", and there was finally an alloy factory option (14x5.5") added in '77.
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Looks like a ZX E12-80 electronic ignition to me.
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Assuming no rust repair, you pull all the trim and glass out, no color change, and no work in the engine compartment but including door and hatch jambs, figure $3000-5000 for good (but not show) quality work. Add some extra for the replacement weatherstripping and other miscellaneous bits. This would be what I'd call a thorough refresh, not a restoration. I did mine last year. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30588
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Chris, I don't know that I'd call it rare, but it is original. If your plans for the car include a significant number of modifications, go with what ever color you want. If you plan to keep it mostly stock, I'd stay with the factory color. The other thing to consider is that doing a color change correctly requires stripping the car to a mostly bare shell, and adds considerable expense to the paint job. Staying with 112 may allow you to not have to paint the shell inside as well. Where in Oregon do you live?
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What you did is the traditional method - that even I (with years of SU experience, both Japanese and British) have problems with. Using the clear tube I was able to get them both correct in short order.
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Well, if the supplier can make 'DATSUN' we are about half-way there. We're going to need a higher percentage of '280-Z' votes in the second half, but both '240-Z' and 'DATSUN' will make the 20 piece minimum. Not looking good for '260-Z' though.
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The fuel pump cam bolts to the end of cam. It can be added to any cam. More to the point is that many later L28 heads don't have the hole for the pump machined into the head. That can be corrected, but it makes me wonder what head you have on the car. What is the head casting number?
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How are you measuring the float level? I suspect that is the problem. I know from personal experience that what seems like 12mm when you have the float cover removed does not always measure correct when it's all re-installed. To verify my levels, I generally put a clear vinyl tube on the bottom float nipple (instead of the normal tube to the bottom nozzle). Then I remove the power to the coil and crank the engine over a couple of times to fill the float bowl. (If you have an electric pump, just hot wire it for a couple of seconds.) You will now be able to see how high the fuel sits in the float bowl under operating conditions. The fuel should be 23-25 mm below the top of the float bowl when measured this way.
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I'd still recommend checking the odometer accuracy first. If the odometer is correct, no need to mess with the gear.
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Folks, everyone is missing the obvious answer here. These old mechanical speedos tend to become inaccurate as they get old. What we have here would seem to be a textbook case. The internal clock-spring in the speedo weakens over time, so the speedo starts reading fast. To confirm, check the accuracy of the odometer over a true measured 5 mile stretch. If the odometer is fairly close, then the speedo itself is the issue, not the gearing, tires or such.
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The front carb's float level is still too low. Correctly setting the level can be tricky for the inexperienced. You need to bring it up another 3-4 mm, as a WAG.
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That's me too. Driving them is what it's all about for me. August has been a busy month for my car, two different shows in the Portland area, and a reunion in Klamath Falls. call it about 900 miles, all told.
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As far as I know, the only type-face still available is the block font.
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Last call?
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Joe, a 4.3 is dang low ratio for street use, especially with the shorter profile tires people often use these days, and very much so without a 5 speed. With a 4 speed you're going to be turning some pretty significant revs on the highway with that diff. Exactly how many depends on the tire size. A stock 240Z has an overall ratio in third gear of 4.77 (1.42 x 3.36). So 4th gear with a 4.3 is going to be in the same ballpark as 3rd in a car with stock gearing. Top speed of maybe 100 at redline....
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Interesting! That's probably the first documented "Plus 1" tire and wheel package for an early Datsun. The 15x5.5 aluminum American Racing LeMans rims with "Michelin 185VR15" tires (almost certainly Michelin 185/70VR15 XWX as fitted on similar vintage 911S) would have been just a touch taller than the original 175-14.
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Still a few votes being added now and then, so I'm going to bump this to make certain that most people have seen it and had a chance.
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In the USA, the 260Z was one year only ('74) and alloys were not offered from the factory. I believe that you could order them from the parts department, but they were so expensive compared to aftermarket rims that almost no one did. They were quite rare here in the states prior to being a factory option on the '77-78 280Z.
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Yup. That's the emergency bypass for the seat belt interlock system. If the seat sensors failed and you couldn't start the car, pressing that button would bypass the interlock for a short time - maybe only one crank, I can't recall for sure.
