Arne
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Everything posted by Arne
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Well, the whole thing appears to be unraveling. Now that I am asking for a firmer commitment prior to the money being sent, the interested parties are far fewer. Apparently its pretty easy to vote in a poll and say, "yeah, I'd like some of that." But as we approach the money part, it appears that a number of the previous voters are unwilling to commit. No, I don't plan to name names, but I am disappointed in how this is unfolding. Here's where we stand at this point. First, unless some miracle happens, there won't be any 280-Z tints as I've only got commitments for a total of 3, and need 20. Without including the 280-Z, we're still at least 15 units shy of the reduced overall minimum (60 pieces), and even the DATSUN tints are only up to 10 confirmed. So we still need an additional 15, and at least 8-10 of those need to be for DATSUN. Looks like quite a stretch, at this point. I'm sorry, and very disappointed, people. I really wanted to make this work. But I honestly don't think it's likely to happen. Of course, it's not to late to get in, even if you didn't vote in the original poll. Just send me a PM and we can put your request in my spreadsheet. -
I've had good luck with the three-piece Hooker gasket set. They aren't paper, but are more normal laminated gaskets. Only for square port heads. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-10852HKR/ Info from Hooker's site: http://www.holley.com/10852HKR.asp
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This may be a new record, you have revived an almost 6 year old thread! Of the original posters above, at least one is deceased (RIP, Carl) and only one of the rest still visits here at all! Please check the dates on the threads you read to make certain that a reply is appropriate. Edit: E, you were more polite than I was...
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I corrected the date in the thread title to match the flyer.
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I've bought parts from Bad Dog in the past, but not frame rails. The owner is a member here, and he was great to deal with.
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The coolant passage you speak of only runs near the carbs, never gets close to the head. I suspect a cracked head also.
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This one is much more recent and should be getting close to road-ready. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34013
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Still need about half of the people who have previously indicated a desire to reply to the second phase.
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Those are the later style, not nearly as valuable as the early style. As a guess, maybe $200 at the very most.
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Please post back how your floor-flattening turns out. My passenger side has that problem as well.
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I'm sorry, I don't get this. How can a radically modified Z with the latest 21st century technology be the "Car of the '70s"? Not just the BOZ, but almost all of those vehicles. There's darned little '70s left in any of those. No meaning to this at all, to me. Just my opinion, YMMV.
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Well, with the stock alternator in my car with the lights, wipers and heater fan going, everything was slow, dim, or both. Sitting at a light with the turn signal on was almost painful to look at. My car is quite fine with the ZX internally regulated alternator. Regardless of what NAPA says, if your alternator is an externally regulated unit, I strongly doubt that the output at idle will be able to keep up. (We'll ignore the fact that I have never heard of a 60 amp externally regulated alternator for a Z.) If adding just a few revs brings things back to "normal", I can't think of anything that you could do to remedy this short of upgrading the alternator. The reality is that what you describe is normal for a stock 240Z.
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Hard to say in this economy, not the best time to sell, IMO. Are they the early ('70-71) or late ('72-76) style?
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Richard, that's quite normal for the stock 240Z alternator. It doesn't have the output at idle to keep everything at full bright. Actually not that unusual for many cars of this vintage. The only real cure for this is a higher output alternator. I think the stock output on a '72 was 45 amps. (My '71 was only 40.) I have a 60 amp 280ZX alternator on my 240Z to aleviate this issue, and also to power the H4 headlights. Pretty much a bolt-on deal except that you need a voltage regulator bypass.
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So far, not quite half of the people who indicated a desire have contacted me for this second (more detailed) round. Still waiting...
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Lots of PMs sent. Check your inboxes...
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Things are firming up. Prices including postage in the USA - $36 for the first one, $33 each for the next two. For more than 3, or shipping outside the USA I'll try to figure it based on the number and/or destination desired. In other words: One - $36 Two - $36 + $33 = $69 Three - $36 + $33 +$33 = $102 Four or more - ?? I'll be sending a PM shortly to all who voted in the poll or posted here in this thread with a number of questions prior to asking for the money. Things like Real name, shipping address, etc. For anyone reading this who has not posted or voted, no problem. Just send me a PM and I'll add you to the list. As of now, we are still looking for more orders for "280-Z", the current count is at 10, so we are half way to the minimum. If we can get a bit closer than that, I think I can figure a way to swing it.
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I haven't done this on the Z, but have had some success in the past with dedicated glass polish applied via foam pad on an orbital buffer. I've also heard that some of the products for spots on glass shower doors will do the trick. I *THINK* most use a mild phosphoric acid solution, but please don't try that relying on my memory alone!
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I'm still holding out for 280-Z for those that want it, Michael. I have noted your offer to get two if needed. I'll factor that in.
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Time to discuss payment options. I would really rather not have to upgrade my PayPal account to accept plastic or to have this kind of dollar amount (60 x $35 = $2100) moving around. PayPal's cut is significant as well, so I'd need to build that into the pricing. I guess I will do all that if I have to, but would it be a big problem for any of you if we do this by checks and money orders instead of PayPal?
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I've been in touch with the manufacturer, and it looks like we'll still be OK with the smaller quantity! Still limited to a minimum of 20 for any given logo, so 260-Z is definitely a no-go, and 280-Z is iffy at this point. As I see it now, there are two options for the 280-Z units. We have votes for 7 units now, but need 20. So we either need to find more buyers, or perhaps the 280-Z votes could move to DATSUN? Because of the lower quantity, price will probably be $35 or $36 each, shipped. Still firming that up now. Will be three weeks manufacturing time from when I place the master order until they are shipped to me, then more time on my end while I sort and ship. So all you who want them, get prepared to send money, it looks like it will happen!
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Much has changed in the chemical makeup of paint over the past 4 decades. A formula that was passably close 30 years ago may not look so good when used with today's paints. Safari Gold is not the only color that suffers from this problem, most if not all of them do. In my case, my painter started with a commercial formula for 905 red, but then custom tinted it to match the underside of the toolbox lids. The results were quite good.
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The E12-80 (just like the Pertronix) only needs two wires. A switched power lead connected to the terminal on the module marked 'B', and a trigger wire to the negative terminal on the coil from the terminal on the module marked 'C'. Generally, you can use the original lead wire that went to the points for the coil trigger wire, and then just run a new wire from the positive terminal of the coil to the 'B' terminal on the module. Done this way, you should have no problems with the tach as long as the tach is good and the original wiring to it is unmolested.
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I'd agree. It can be fixed, with time, effort and new metal. Not many of us on the West coast of the USA would attempt to repair a car that far gone, there are still too many available that are better. But in other parts of the world, such as you in the UK or people in the USA rust belt, there may not be anything better available.
