Arne
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Everything posted by Arne
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Today brings us to 48%. Hoping to get enough by the end of the week to make the move. I don't want to let all these checks hang out in limbo too long. -
OK, just curious. I suspect those old red part numbers were designed for closer to stock spring rates, but have never been certain. Been considering a set for use with my Euro Stage 1 springs (about 110-120 lbs. rate, IIRC) instead of the KYBs I now use.
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John, any idea what the appropriate spring rates were for the old Koni 82R-1716/82R-1717 inserts? Did they also just adjust rebound, and leave compression alone? Or how about the 86-1811/1812 set?
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45% today. Checks reported as already in the mail should bring us past 50%. Close, but not quite there yet...
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I got the one in the picture (OE Nissan) from MSA back in 2006. Part #15-6200 which appears to be NLA. That was way back before I knew how many parts my local dealer could still provide. The Nissan number is 11826-N3300 which also appears to be NLA. If you use a non-Nissan replacement, make sure the hose is fuel/oil rated.
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I'm running it in an XP Pro virtual machine on a Mac. No CPU hogging issues at all.
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Factory hubcaps for certain 810s, I believe.
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At 42% today and still counting.
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Well, the answer to that isn't as cut and dried as it seems like it should be. Today's "modern" wire wheels typically have some sort of sealant in the drop center of the rim to allow you to use tubeless tires. This is pretty much a good thing, as tubeless is a huge improvement over tubes.But the sealant is there to seal the air chamber where all the spoke nipples go. So the spoke nipple heads are sealed to the rim, making it impossible to adjust the spoke tension, even if it should be necessary. No way to adjust them at all, turning the nipple will damage the sealant. The fact that you can not adjust them, doesn't mean that they will never need it. In fact my experience after years in that industry has been that any wire wheel in normal use will be out of true after a few years. While the look of the chrome and the flash is great, I would never recommend wire wheels for a car that is going to be driven much, especially driven in the manner that Zs encourage.
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Mr. K's car. Same Appliance Fine Wires as I had on mine.
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Here's mine with a set of 14x6 Appliance Fine Wires on it, as it was when I bought it. Like Mike, I didn't like them, and removed and sold them shortly. Wire wheels can look good (if you like that look), and have a lot of visual pop. But they are also heavy, not always round & true, and often have an offset that is inconvenient for a Z. They're hard to keep clean as well.
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Moved to 240Z forum from 240K forum.
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Mixed results while I was gone. Only 4 checks, but most were for multiples. Up to 38% as of today. Still hoping, and still possible.
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The flasher unit for the hazards. Can't recall exactly where it attaches, off hand. But somewhere on the right side of the car.
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A '72 should have come with 5.0", yes. The size will be stamped on the face of the rim, under the hub cap and near the valve stem.
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I'm going to be out of town for several days this coming week, so no mail updates until Thursday or so. Cross your fingers, everyone...
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Yup, I can't wait. This will be the last period accessory that I think I want for my car. And it's been the hardest to find. I'm still hopeful that it'll happen.
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Ack! No checks in today's mail at all!
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They attach using one of the bracket to body bolts. The outer ones, IIRC.
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A good mail call today. Now at 23%.
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The first checks arrived today. Let's all hope that enough people respond. About 8% of the way there. Need to get to 65-70% to get to where I can cover the rest.
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I did the shower curtain thing on one side of my car a while back, also thanks to E. for the idea. Buy the cheapest, thinnest one you can find. Works well.
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Yup. I rotate mine every 18 months or so. Takes about 20-30 minutes. No big deal, just part of regular maintenance. I've got 10k in three years on my Toyo 195/70-14s now (14x6 wheels), still much life left. Several more years. Indeed, I'll probably replace them due to age long before they wear out. I'm sure you can find Yokos to fit your narrow steelies, one of the two sizes I listed above should do it. Don't know if they'll last longer, though.
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Yeah, I did it. You want a laugh, google his username and "empire covers" and see how many forums he has posted that same spiel on...
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No obvious wear patterns there. Front looks better, but might show a bit of toe-out, looking at the wear on the inside shoulder. I'd probably have the alignment checked just because, but it doesn't look terrible. Looks like you never rotated the tires, which would have tended to equalize the wear some. But that only means that the rears would be a bit better and the fronts a bit worse. Not a deal breaker either way. Larger issue is your expectations. While I have no personal experience with them, those Vreds are not known as being a particularly long lasting tire. I would not have expected to get more than 30-35k miles out of tires like those, at the very most. Add to that the fact that you are driving a light-weight sports/GT car, and maybe 20k might be all they'll reasonably go. Light cars are hard on tires. Too much slippage due to light weight. Same problem that causes a rear touring motorcycle tire to wear out in 4-6k miles. I actually got much better rear tire mileage on the bikes when riding two-up. Even though my wife only weighs ~125 lbs., it's really noticeable on tire wear. I know that Vreds are about the only true 175-14 tires left these days, but your experience doesn't make it look as if they are very durable. Probably no incentive for them to be better since they are about the only game in town. If longer lasting tires are a priority for you, consider looking into P185/75-14 as replacements. Much larger selection to choose from, a touch wider, but still narrow enough to fit comfortably on stock steel wheels. If your car has 14x5.0 wheels you could also consider 195/70-14, but pinching them down to fit a 5" wheel isn't going to help either the handling or the mileage.
