TVollnogle

Here's a link to the Autobody Store forum where I recently asked a question about fixing an oil-canning door caused by previous damage which wasn't properly repaired. I tried some of the suggested techniques, which solved my problem. The most effective method I found was spot heating with a torch, using a dolly and hammer to "shrink" the metal, then quenching with water. http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4094 Len, who sponsors the site, used to do a lot of Z work. He said back in the '70s he had a lot of them in his shop yard since he did all of the repair work for one of the dealerships in the his NJ area. Hope this is of some value. Terry Grand Rapids, MI '70 240Z #3212

I think this is Paul Telford. I've been dealing with him for a number of months. He doesn't know anything about Z's. He bought the parts from some lady whose son had been restoring a Z at one time. He figured he could make some money but had no idea of value. I told him what I'd give him for everything I got, and he was pleased. The data plate he has is from a s/n close to mine (#3212), so I suspect most of the parts are Series I. He's an honest guy and easy to deal with. Terry

Just realized that Houston isn't going to help you much. Sorry, maybe the info will help someone in the US. T

I recently communicated with Superior Chrome Plating in Houston and from their website, they appear to be reputable. Here is a link to them:http://www.JustChromeIt.com. They gave me an internet quote of $225-250 for the 3 piece rear bumper plus $45-55 each for the bumper guards. The price would be determined once they had them in hand and could evaluate how much cleaning and straightening was requireed. I ended up having a local place do mine. It is going to cost more but I won't have to mess with the shipping. Hope this helps. Terry Grand Rapids, MI '70 240Z #3212

Here's a link to a company that makes bedliner coating and it's available in a smooth finish. I haven't used the product but they sent me a sample of it. I plan to try it on the bottom of my car. http://www.durabakcompany.com/ Terry '70 240Z

I'm restoring a '70 240Z and was looking for info on doing my own zinc plating of parts. I joined a plating forum on Yahoo to gain knowledge. In my discussions, I came across a fellow who was set up to do it at home for fun. I talked him into trying some of my stuff rather than going to the trouble of setting up my own system. His work was excellent and he charged me a very reasonable price, I think. I asked if he was willing to do some plating on the side for people in the group and he said he would. If there is anyone in need of his services, his name is Sean and he can be contacted at . He is able to do various colors including yellow and silver. The parts he did for me look like new parts. He posted pictures for me to choose what I wanted, which he can direct you to so you can see the various color choices and intensities. Terry Grand Rapids, MI '70 240Z #3212

Zedd Findings: http://www.datsunzparts.com/

I'm reassembling my '70 Z engine after overhaul and am finding conflicting values for the head bolt torquing. It has an E31 head, with engine block #005953. I purchased new head bolts from Nissan. Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild your Nissan..." gives 61 ft-lbs. The Henley Shop Manual gives 47 ft-lbs. The Clymer Manual says on L24's up to block number 27000 or so (I'm going from memory since I'm out of town and don't have the manual with me) that the torque is 51 ft-lbs. Has anyone run up against this before? Any ideas? Thanks. Terry '70 240Z #3212

I happened onto this technique while starting to remove the Tar Mat from the floors and tunnel of my '70 which I'm restoring. Don't know if it has been used before, but here it is: I started out heating the mat (which I had seen suggested) but that just made a mess and poor results. I then used a gasket scraper and manually started chipping the mat out with acceptable results, although labor intense (as declared by Bambikiller240 a couple of years ago in a thread). It occured to me that I had a couple of pneumatic rivet/muffler guns and a chisel point tool and wondered if that might work. I rounded the corners of the chisel slightly so as not to gouge the floor and tunnel metal. I held the gun at about a 30 degree angle and turned the air pressure low. It worked like a dream. Chipped the mat out with no effort and no damage to the metal. Doing both floor pans, the transmission tunnel and the luggage area probably took just over an hour. A little paint thinner on a rag and putty knife for minor clean-up and the metal was clean and bare. Terry '70 240Z

I'm in the process of wringing out the wiring on my '70 240Z during restoration. Previously someone jumpered a wire between the BW wire at the ignition switch and the BW wire just before the coil thus bypassing all of the wiring in dash. I suspect this was because they were not getting power to the coil. The way it looks to me on the wiring diagram, the coil gets power from the BW wire at the ignition by (from the ignition switch) going to the BW wire at the resistor, thru the resistor to the GW wire, then to the tach, thru the tach and then via the BW wire from the tach to the coil. All wires have wrung out correctly. The tachometer did not work when I dismantled the car, and this is where I suspect the problem lies. Does anyone have a working tach on their bench that they can check continuity on the tach connector between the two white wire terminals (BW and GW coming into the connector)? When I check mine, I have no continuity which would seem to leave an open in the circuit between the ignition and the coil. Not sure what happens inside the tach so maybe my thinking is flawed. Can any of you electrical experts help me out? Thanks for the help. Terry Grand Rapids, MI '70 240Z #3212

Thanks guys. I had seen the rotisserie associated with your link during an earlier search, 26th-Z, and it is along the line that I'm thinking. Found this site too during the search and like the lighter design of this rotisserie: http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Rotisserie/Dave's%20auto%20rotisserie.htm. I was communicating with Will (hls30) and he has a shell which he just cut up and said he would weigh the pieces if he gets a chance and let me know the weight. Terry

Thanks for the info. I suspected it wouldn't weigh a lot. Did you have yours on a rotisserie, Philip? Most of the rotisseries I've seen look to be overbuilt, which is not necessarily a bad thing, but I would rather build one as light yet functional as possible. Guess I could have my engineer son do an analysis on my design. Terry

Does anyone know how much the body shell weighs with everything removed: interior, doors, fenders, engine, drive train, suspension, etc. Curious how heavy it is for transporting on a trailer and building a rotisserie to hold it. Thanks, Terry

Thanks for the input. Guess I will probably go with the 920 gold when it comes down to it. I'm getting the car for reasons of nostalgia, so it wouldn't be the same if it was a different color.

I did a search but found nothing on this subject. Can anyone direct me to some information about the most desireable early Z colors? I had a '71 30 years ago which was the #920 Gold or Mustard color. There didn't seem to be that many with that paint. I'm looking at a '70 to restore (recondition) and it will require paint. I would lean towards the Gold color for nostalgia reasons, but wouldn't want to put all the work into it and then have a color which is not regarded very highly. What are your thoughts on it?