smokingwheels

Hi Back again My Z Has sum sort or strange restance device in the air flow box. It goes from 50 ohms to 350 then 50 ohms to 350 etc as the flap opens up. so how can i log this? It looks like it has sum sort of reed switchs taped on the slider, with a steel rod that goes over them it seems to reset the restance after passing one of them Its a 79 Z EFI I could post a pic if needed

Did the Garbage Bag test today. yep measured how long it took to fill one with exhaust fumes. I think it was a 40L bag my normal 2L engine at idle filled the bag in approx 11 seconds. my modified engine at idle filled the bag in approx 5 seconds. the modified engine was running slightly faster than the normal engine though at a guess it was in the order of 100 rpm faster i will need to correct this and then do more tests hmmm that engine sucks

My reference car is leaking the green stuff between head and inlet manifold some one has undone the rocker cover bolts again but this time they also undone the manifold bolts as well most of the bolts were just past finger tight about 1/32 of a turn I could accept exhaust bolts being slack but not inlet hmm thinking about getting sum bolts that are used on small aircraft with holes so i can put wires in them just a minor setback may wire up a latching relay to a microswitch to energise the horn when the bonnet is opened for when they visit again hehe.

ok have a look at this http://www.geocities.com/smokingwheels/index.html

I ripped the air flow meter out of my z today stuck it on top of my stock carbie was able to open air flap in the order on 95% just by cracking the secondarys open wide by hand with revs in the order of 3000 with no load I will need to make a better setup, i dont have 5 hands. so does anybody know how much engine VE% goes up with a hot cam?

True but that will cost a few $$ which i dont have I dont have a job atm. so im looking for sum sort of relitave figure

ok well ive got 2 engines of the same size but different mods If i compare the noload acceleration rates i might have sum idear of power output. I am recording anything i can so that when i put my copmuter (computer) Into control the engine timing I can compare before and after effects. note: engine is protected with my adjustible 2 stage rev limiter ok so ive been doing little hooning rev limit stop is set at 5500 rev limit soft is set at 5300 when traveling from sum traffic lights to 100 km/h sign I have found taking off but taking good care of the clutch im doing 100 km/h. I have found using launch control @3500 RPM im doing 110 km/h with tools+ passenger. Cleaned out tools and passenger using launch control @3500 RPM im now doing 120 km/h to the same point. so that 20 km/h is gained over the same distance by using the engines peak toque to start off and unloading extra mass, when i shift gears my foot does not leave the floor, its hard to get used to though, just change quickly not a slam approx 100 kg? car is 1060kg + 75kg I have to go and get a rough distance measurment to work it out. I think if you want to accelerate twice as fast you need 4 times the power because you have to get half the distance in half the time. thats how i understand it

Performance improvement is a constantly varying science

Today I measured an engine (4 cylinder) with no load. RPM accelerates at approx 4.6 RPM per 1mS, When accelerating the engine between 3400 rpm 5200 rpm it does it in 389ms. Does anyone know how good or bad this is ? Does anyone know how to work out the "1/2MV2 Theory"? ..

Ok well sounds like you guys are not intrested or dont belive what you are reading that ok I will post more results a lot later on After Ive finshed working on a Friends V8 sum 6700 cc of an airtool Now thats sum airtool to play with it has got the usuall performance mods But before i go and have more fun think about this Pic No fancy timing light just a 1 sec exposure on a cam note: if i retard the timing any more i cant see the mark in the pics I would like to hear anybodys engine rev at that setting. Ps: where would i buy a L20 B block that could put out 600 Kw for my head cheers

When I fully understand what is going on I wont have much time to spare some details I read on the net somewhere that someone (aka smokingwheels has) will make an Internal Cumbustion Engine that is fired when the piston is on the down side. Thus ive found you can have really high compression ratios My 1st engine had a chamber volume of 33 cc ~11.5:1 My 2nd 38-39 cc ~ 10.5:1 My 3rd engine hmm a diesel engine converted to fuel ~20:1 Have a look sum of my results at www.smokingwheels.myphotoalbum.com Sum of this data was the first attempt in 2002 I had a program which I used and wrote in MS QuickBASIC that timed the spark, with a little interface to the printer port of a computer, Pic is loaded on this site I only found out last month that spread sheet was out by a factor of 2* in its calculation for the timing, thus the engine didnt go very good until you hit 3000 rpm. When above 3000 rpm the maximum total advance to stop knocking needed to be 3-4 degrees btdc this was confirmed with timing light, so that also says there was no load on engine. I have done simlar tests on as std engine you can advance ~20 up before it starts knocking with no load. It also used to foul plug at a alarming rate and 3 heat ranges up, eg maybe 1000 km STD plugs well i was lucky if i got 30 mins. I replaced everthing electrical but still not much better In the end I reduced the compression to ~8:1 and rewrote the program to work better. I then got another 8 Months out of this engine before the conrod bearings when again, i did a shifty repair used 20" and 30" shells. anyway im still scraching my head now but not pulling my hair out anymore

Thanks for the comments Sound likes an air tool. pitch/time shifted in some audio software. Do you even own a car? The only adjustment was to increase volume by 500% then a futher 289% I am using some walkman headphones cost $1.00 at crazy clarks I was using a small speaker before but it runs of of dynamic range. I have 2 licensed cars atm. here is a previous recording (sorry for the clipping and using server space) PS the cam is too advanced and the ignition static timing is as 5 ATDC so thats 13 degrees less than recomended. I know its sounds hard to Believe, but im trying to do something that has not been done before, correct me if im wrong please 5 ATDC jumping on it engine hot.zip

I have built my 2nd prototype engine, in a bluebird wagon. It has stock carbie, stock cam, plugs are 3 heat ranges up. I have matched and slightly enlarged the ports. The valves are thinner that normal and i have found there resistance to reverse is flow is better than a typical valve with 3 angles at low lifts. I have been jumping on the gas today and here is a short file. Its a 4 cylinder can anybody make guess what my Peak RPM is? I can hear the engine accelerating a lot faster above ~6000 RPM I think its up around 8000 RPM. added pitch shifted files 5/10/2005 reving high2.zip

Here is a link to a short recording of what my newly worked engine sounds like right above the stock carbie, with stock cam. It seems to use a lot of fuel when hammered. I will update this link as time goes by http://203.59.138.1/ have sum other photos at www.smokingwheels.myphotoalbum.com I would be interested if anyone could record what there car sounds like@WOT With No Load at various static timings. Putting you foot flat to floor only if you have a good rev limiter! send to smokingwheels@yahoo.com or reply to post with url etc

I know it sounds like the stock cam is a little to advanced, but it goes ok and it sure sucks the fuel. Recorded with mic just above stock carbie no air cleaner. does anybody have recordings of what there intake sounds like, when its at WOT under load or no load i would be interested to hear them during road test my engine will open the vacume secondarys of the stock carbie just above 2000 rpm. send to smokingwheels@yahoo.com or reply with url in msg pully hole at 5 ATDC timing ~20 ATDC jumping on it.zip 5 ATDC static pumping on it hot.zip

hmmm thinking So are they just picking on nissans ? "deeded" and other nissan lovers there has to be away around this. This news saddens me all that nissan technology going to waste. My friend had a problem like yours, had to remove the car got a lousy $50.00 I won't say what i think of them on air except, My grandfather was a dentist and so I can't show my face on T.V or Internet. So would it help if you were working on sum engine mods to confirm/verify data for a business venture in Austraila, Building the perfect Internal Cumbustion Engine........ I would Register engine no, body no, block type, head type cc in cumbustion chamber no of leaf blowers etc the more the better,anything cheap is good to like my turbo coke bottle just add silycon. see cheap mod .... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18574 and any other thing i can think of, "help me out here" I would store this in a spread sheel as part of my World Wide Experment. Including next mod waiting to be done. Including next engine non destructive test. Including next engine test to find the peak power point before total destruction. Stuff like How to Add a leaf blower and get an extra 10 KW, I have got curcuits to email. Hey I have room for at least 10 of these in my wagon, Can you get electric start 2 Stroke leaf blower....... opps restricted information Bit of a plumbing nightmare, but possible. Anyway if the powers to be need some proof. I Have some very interesting photos which I can email. I Have A Suitably Qualifed Mechanic (Retired "Convertional Thinking Person") to confirm my findings. He's quite impressed with my current engine. I still needs tuning It has to be computerised to avoid self distruction, as the previous engine. I still have data and some of its listed on www.smokingwheels.myphotoalbu.com I can supply my first program with sum errors and bugs (features), including a xls file to calculate timing, the setup of such computer (see below for rates) I would go to the extreme of making a short AVI to emailing it to " the powers to be". Charges and Rates 2005 Hard copy hmmm at least $1.9999999E+99999999 au$, or several million $ per picoSecond, which ever in higher....(Thankyou Bill Gates) On the serious side (retricted information) I guess you would have to prove that I have ownership of the car or pile of parts. send me photos. In return I would do the same to you but no one would know that, otherwize i guess its headed to the crusher. If you got this far well does it not infringe on sum of our Civil Rights/freedom somewhere along the lines but remember time is short in this case Im all ears cheers big ears (big brother)

Next time you try it with sub standard componets email me at smokingwheels@yahoo.com well because i ended up with 2 flat batteries in 2 cars the time frame is too close PS I have a 40 amp charger home made hmmm 2000 va transformer was rated 20 volt 20 amp until i removed a few windings hmmm 2000 va @10 volts ~199.2 amps is this correct? no wonder i can arc weld the jumper leads however blows the rectifiers up, out of sum old altnator

hmm well ok more flow than a vac so about 5 kilopaslls boost hmm ~10kw increase for 2 kw drain off motor so rewire the altnator split 3 phases add voltage doublers then put in series summing the output a guess of about 220 volts dc if you drive the rotor hard enought it should handle 20 volts for short periords I will have to try that one thanks for the incentive

oh so the wires burnt up hmmm and it worked for 30 seconds! you can find sum stainless steel mig wire .9 mm from a hardware store only this will do they wont eat that up not like your zinc/lead or was it tin/lead (solder) this is no trick my granfather had a 2 strock slasher (victor) it used to backfire and unscrew the plug i got sick and really pissed off this so i tried somthing the wire worked never had a bother with it for the rest of the day cheers brother

Try 100 mm of stainlessteel wire wraped around each of the plugs at the end pull back the boots and twist it on go for a drive, note wires should have sharp ends and not be near any metal if it works good if no improvment drain fuel tank and sniff fuel try to get high, compare color with old degreaser fluid. test new fuel out in another car etc before buying any more. PS ill have to get my video tape transcribed to dvd oneday then i can show what i got in my tank oneday in september 2002

Its good to here someone is on the same page Im looking at the smaller things like gaining .1 % more power simple find enough of these and you will end up with more power than you had yep its true the colder the air the more dense you can patent that one my idear is to make a foam box to fit in my wagon approx 1.2 CM then use the aircon to cool the air in the box you should be able to get it down to - 20 c then feed the air in unrestricted into you engine for a burst of hmm about 10 seconds at WOT you can get a sum cool tools free at http://www.turbofast.com.au/freesoftware.html look at cfm rpm etc

may be i could send you sum mp3s of my lastest engine with vac secondarys opening up with no load on engine or upload them then you guys might think different im away for a few days

well i didnt have smoking stuff on my mind but now you guys mentioned it http://smokingwheels.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album03&id=power trying this http://smokingwheels.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album03 page 2 say no more ill probley get booted for this

I wish i was smoking the other stuff I might upload the pic with the foil around it opp ithink i all ready have ok Question how much power does it take to cut out conrod bearings is 30 days 33 cc in chamber ? Question lower compression to 45 cc in the chamber 20" n 30" shells, lasts for 8 months how much power? Run an engine WOT with ~28 degrees too much advance Question how long will the pistons last ? fact wheels used to spin easly in second gear ,provided they were spinning in 1st Question how much HP? so these are some of the things i have allready done and will do again there are real performance gains fact going from L20 b cam to L18 cam reduced knocking by a few degrees fact knocking was heard above 3000 Rpm @ 3-4 BTDC L20 b cam Question calculate Engine VE? So im willing to use anything and everything So think about this feed you engine with a liquid slussie of fuel an O2 then push the compression through the roof to insane levels blow up a few engines in the process ,been there in theriory you have just made a refigrator that works at 6000 rpm The perfict engine Copyright 2005 By smokingwheels@yahoo.com PS: My Grandfather was a dentist so i can't show my face on T.V.