KDMatt

Of course :stupid:

I don't think MSA nor Black Dragon have the 3-piece setup.

Another thing I would check is the AFM. If it, say, couldn't open past a certain position, I would imagine that could, or would certainly make it difficult to rev too high, and would easily cause a fouling condition seeing as it would be limiting the amount of air that could flow. Also, the thermotime/cold-start circuit is only energized while the starter is cranking (at least, that's how it's supposed to go), I can't imagine that would cause any difficulties with the car already running. ... My opinion. :beard:

Pretty much. :eek: The falling of the tree itself was pretty quiet, so I knew that when I didn't hear any crunching or shattering that it wasn't going to be all bad. However, I didn't rule it out. Honestly I was more worried when the city employee came with a chainsaw to hack away at the tree (and the huge branch that had my car trapped). As you can see though, all he left behind was some sawdust. Lucky is a good way of putting it... blessed is another... Either way if one ever needed more proof that there is a God and he is just... yeah.... That she does. My dad's girlfriend's Oldsmobile was far less fortunate when a tree decided to come down on that thing.

"Talking Lady?" ... I'd always heard her referred to by ZX-owners as "Bitchin' Betty" ... Just a thought...

Yep yep same deal, though I can get heat, and it seems like I also get flow through the eyeballs sometimes too... 'could be my imagination though. I can also, sometimes, IF, I'm lucky get it to switch over to the defrost... this has not happened in months though, and I'm beginning to think my getting it to switch over was merely luck.

A few scratches on the roof, but that's pretty much it, yep. It doesn't even look like the radio antenna got bent up... However, if I would have parked about 3 feet further back (like I often do) the bulk of the tree would have been on the car... and boom, no more Z. Tell me about it. ... The prevailing theory is that the loud "CRACK!" everyone in the neighborhood heard this morning was the tree being struck by lightning, then after an afternoon of downpouring it finally gave way and collapsed as you saw in the photos. The tree has been being eaten away by Carpenter ants for years though... No question about it. No way man! I'm hittin' the Blackjack tables now!

Are you saying that you can't get air to flow through the window defrosters? I also have this problem on my '76 and would be very interested in a solution!

the outcome...

My Z is blessed, sacred, holy, etc. etc. ... and here's why... well... actually... pictures speak louder than words, so I'll let you interpret what happened.

'Just stick with what you've got man. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Unless the head you've got right now is broken and needs some machining or something don't even bother... Have you even run a comrpession check on all of your cylinders? There wouldn't be any point in trying to squeeze the best compression ratio out of your block if you've got bad compression on your pistons, ya know? 'Just thought I'd bring it up.

Hello there Laura. I'm not an expert at all, but my guess would be that, yes, your lines and fuel stuff is just really really clogged up (especially if you said your tank was a tad on the rusty side). From what I understand, what could be occuring in this situation is that when you're at a steady speed you have a gentle "trickle" of gasoline going to your injectors, and that is sufficient at that speed and load, however, when you need to up the ante (and in a hurry) that trickle is suddenly, no longer enough to meet the demands of the engine, so as a result you get this quick burst, but then shortly thereafter don't have enough fuel, and thus a stalling, sputtering "running out of gas" feeling. Think of it like trying to suck Coke through a coffee stirrer straw... it's fine if you just want a little bit, but the minute you want a lot of Coke fast, the little straw just doesn't cut it. This is just my opinion, however. You may want to verify this theory before you start planning to replace all of your fuel lines and such.

Err... I'm having a hard time understanding what you're saying... and it might help others who are more capable of helping you... but... ... Did you say you have your turn signals going through your hazard flasher unit or vice-versa... or what? The extent of my knowledge takes me to the point where I can say that there are two flasher units... one for your hazards, and one for your turn signals... and somehow I don't think it's wise to combine them or rewire them (as it sounds like you did, correct me if I'm wrong though). Also, no hazard switch? ... There isn't a switch on your center console just below the stereo specifically labeled "Hazard?" ... I find it difficult to believe that Nissan would ship a Z lacking proper hazard fittings... If the switch is really absent, is it possible that a Previous Owner replaced the console and just forgot to include the fitting for the switch?... or perhaps it got relocated? EDIT: Okay, I'm starting to understand your problem a little more. You're saying that the SIGNAL flasher is making both lights flash simultaneously, right?

Well, from the way it sounds, with all of that change spilling out of your pockets, the Z is going be able to chip in about half cost for whatever breaks next! Oh, and for real man? Pick up that change that spills down there. It only takes one coin to screw up your seatbelt... It took me over half an hour, and a lot of dripping sweat to get the mechanism out... and only 10 seconds to dislodge the coin.

I would also like the post in regards to the "Ethereal Money Detector" device hidden inside of the car. (Knock on wood) I'm just a poor college kid, and my Z has been very kind to me... of course, seeing as the Z is really my only means of transportation, she knows that I can't ever look at another car the same way I do her. I rarely have cash in my wallet... or when I do it's because I've anticipated a trip to the auto parts store, or the gas station. ... Although, I have left a lot of loose change lying around inside ('once had my seatbelt get jammed because a dime wriggled its way down there somehow) ... I think there's close to $3 in quarters under the arm rest... This leads me to believe that the money detector cannot sense the presence of loose change (at least in small quantities) ... perhaps it recognizes the metal coins as native (as in, not foreign, monetary goods). I would like to see someone tote $100 in quarters and see if the Z can acknowledge that it's spendable money.

Hrm... ... yes there have been some pretty strong arguments for the internal regulator upgrade. I suppose now is as good a time as any. Who was it that was selling the adapter kit again? ... Also the internally regulated alt. from a '79 ZX should suffice, right? EDIT That adapter looks like it's only available to 240-owners... that doesn't help me ATM... I'll have to keep searching I suppose.

Slap me on the hands, I've been bad. I popped out my old, malfunctioning VR and popped in a brand new Niehoff one, thinking I was gettin' a steal (at a cold 35.99 where could I have gone wrong)... Except I forgot the first rule of parts buying: You get what you pay for. Now my electrical stuff all seems to be...well... "hot" I guess. I first noticed it when I pulled the key out of the ignition after a ... I dunno... 15/20 minute jaunt? The key itself was rather warm. I felt the ignition cylinder, and sure enough, that was very warm too. I felt the guages, and yes, those were warm as well, even my aftermarket stereo was warm! I drove around some more, and before I knew it, the steering wheel itself was getting hot... I mean almost hot enough where I couldn't really touch it. Concerned, I immediately whipped out my multimeter. I know that the guage in the car redlines at 16 volts. My multimeter tells me that at a good rev (over 3500 rpm) the electrical system is reading just under 15 volts. This leads me to think that perhaps too many amps are getting through? My multimeter can only test 250 mA ... so I'm not sure if I can really test the system current. This brings me to a statement, and then two questions: The Nie-crap regulator's gotta go. What should I replace it with, and where can I get one? MSA sells "Laser Light" ... claiming that's as close to OEM spec as they can get, any luck with these?

Yo Tyson! That's true, I forgot about the plugs, . I'll get around to polishing it... soon... I think... right now I have some charging issues to sort out... O.O

Ah, in reference to my original problem... yes, I believe I fixed it (or at least I'm on the right track). I completely replaced the battery cables and VR with brand new stuff... I also cleaned up the fusible links and a couple of ground connections I could get my hands on. My multimeter shows almost no difference as compared to the + & - terminals on the battery, and the + terminal & body of the car. Headlights are brighter, stereo's louder (yay)... we should all be so lucky. So, would it be reasonable to chalk up my voltage drop out to extremely corroded battery connections? ...I'll probably keep searching for connections to clean anyway (i.e. the remaining 5 injectors)... but yeah... Do you think dirty injector connections could cause a car to run rich?

Ah, shoot, I was already over there. I'm going to send him and his wife a gift card as an additional way to thank him, so when I write the letter I'll be sure to mention your salutations, . Anyway, the verdict? A faulty injector connection! We retested for spark, and it was okay. The connector for the injector was green with corrosion ( :sick: ), so I took some cleaner and some dielectric grease to it as well as a steel brush and cleaned it off. Sure enough that fixed the problem. :stupid: ... Strange that something so simple (and probably a long time in the making) would crop up so randomly and suddenly. I also asked Tyson to help me do a compression check real quick (we tested the #6 cylinder, might as well do the rest) and I'm pleased with the results even though he's got a leaky O-ring on his tester. 140 140 140 140 160 150 from front to back. Oh, DZR. I forgot to tell you... The big hubub on the ZOOM forums right now is that there are two 280z's at the U-Pull-R-Parts place down in Rosemount. I think they're both 77s... could be worth a look? One of them I guess was in good running condition when the owner brought it in.

I appreciate the sentiment DZR. Tyson, the internet "gang leader" of ZOOM over in Brooklyn Park has offered to help me out. My Z is driveable as it is right now... it just... runs like crap is all (as any 6 cylinder engine car would if it were running on 5). So the basic plan is I'm going to drive my Z out to his garage and we're going to test things. I've offered to bring him lunch in exchange for his help... I always buy food for people who help me with my car, and I've yet to hear any complaints.

Yeah, that's the one.

Also, for the record, Haynes will tell you that the correct firing order is 156324.

Actually, I managed to download a PDF of the FSM from carfiche.com ... so, yeah, I believe I do have an FSM.

Nope, I took them off one at a time so as to make sure I didn't screw up the order. o.o