2ManyZs

Between 18 and 20 a woman is like Africa, half discovered, naturally beautiful with fertile areas waiting to be explored. Between 21 and 30 a woman is like America, well developed and open to trade especially for someone with cash. Between 31 and 35 she is like India, very hot, relaxed and convinced of her own beauty. Between 36 and 40 a woman is like France. Gently aging but still warm and a desirable place to visit. Between 41 and 50 she is like Yugoslavia, haunted by past mistakes and massive reconstruction is now a necessity. Between 51 and 60 she is like Russia, very wide, and borders are unpatrolled. The frigid climate keeps people away. Between 61 and 70, a woman is like Mongolia, with a glorious and all conquering past, but alas no future. After 70, they become like Afghanistan. Most everyone knows where it is, but no one wants to go there. THE GEOGRAPHY OF A MAN: Between 15 and 70 a man is like Iraq... Ruled by a prick....

Are the lights you are referring to the "Halo" lights EScanlon has on his car?

Maybe I should re-phrase that, as far as I know all the P-90A's used on ZX's were hydraulic lifters, now what else they might have used the head on is a good question. Perhaps the Maxima had one before it went to the V-6? I dunno much about the Maximas so I'm just guessing as there weren't all that many that used the L series besides the ZX and the early Maximas, here in the US that is...... Ok, found a little more info on the P90-A. http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/p-90.html I was wrong, they do have lifters available from Courtesy, but geesh, they are 42 bucks each and who knows what they might be now?:tapemouth

This another of your tests? As far as I know all the P90-A's had hydraulic lifters. And I don't know if replacement lifters are even available... I don't think I've ever seen them advertised anywhere now that I think about it....

I've never had a problem with the two headers from MSA that I have had. I would suggest one of two things, either get the header with the ceramic coating and don't use any tape on it at all. Or, use the header blanket instead of the wrapping tape. The tape absorbs moisture and holds it tight against the header, which does nothing more than promote the header rusting. The tubing is so thin on the header pipes that any rust will not take long to deteriorate it to the point at which the metal just blows out like yours did. The header blanket doesn't hold moisture directly against the metal, therefore any moisture that does get inside should evaporate. My money is on the ceramic coating, it helps seal the metal against rust, and it does help contain some of the heat inside the header, where it should be, going out the exhaust...... But since you already have the header, you should ask MSA what the difference is between the header "blanket" and the header "jacket" they show in their catalog... If you notice, the header wrap is not recommended for long-term use, or for street use.... because it holds moisture and promotes rust perhaps????

If you do get another set of wheels for the track, these are the tires that seem to be getting the highest praise for the prices. The Hoosiers may be stickier and faster on the track, but they are much higher priced and don't last nearly as well....:disappoin http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Kumho&model=Ecsta+V700 You can get these tires shaved and heat cycled from the Tire Rack as well, if you are going to use them as a track only tire, shaving would be the way to go, heat cycling can be done on the track, as you probably won't be using them as often as someone who races on a steady basis.

Most manufacturers either have a really good track tire, or a really good street tire. Hard to find one that is both but here's a couple that looks pretty decent in 14 and 15 inch sizes. Luckily you are running 15's or your choices would be very slim.... You will notice there are not as many 60 series tires listed, I'd suggest going to a 205-225/ 50 instead as you will get better track preformance with the shorter sidewall, but a slightly stiffer street ride. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Goodyear&model=Eagle+HP http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Kumho&model=ECSTA+Supra+712 http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Yokohama&model=AVS+ES100 FWIW, these are just some of the ones I would consider, as the prices are quite reasonable, and I just picked them out at random. I didn't compare tread wear ratings and such, just went by the manufacturers and picked the ones that are the closest tread patterns to their race tires.

Well.... If you find another pic that is not so "anti-social" send it to me and I'll do the same as I did for that one. If you taught it to walk backwards you'd have a "cyclops"..... Just remember, you asked for it, you got it....

I think there must have been some "cost cutting" measures in the interior design. I never minded the e-brake being on the right side of the tunnel as I am 6'1" with long arms. But, I have seen a lot of shorter people who have to "reach" for it and for them it is a bit awkward to use, especially if the brake has been drawn up tight. With that being said, I'm glad that I'm not driving a RHD with a short reach. Case in point? The heater controls, specifically the fan switch would be a bit of a reach on a RHD car, where in a LHD car it falls easily in hand for most anyone. The choke control also falls easily in hand in a LHD car whereas in a RHD it could be a bit awkward to use if the car is parked and the e-brake is on, you would have to reach over the handle to use the choke when the e-brake is engaged. I guess what you RHD owners would consider to be awkward to use in a LHD car, we would also consider some things as being awkward to reach in a RHD car. Mostly it's just a matter of what we have become accustomed to. I did notice there seems to be very little room for your foot between the "dead pedal" and the clutch pedal. While on the LHD there is plenty or room to move your foot around. You get room on one side while we get room on the opposite side.... I recently saw some pics of a Jeep Grand Cherokee, the new Diesel model in Europe, and having seen this, it seems they still do a lot of cost cutting measure when manufacturers decide to export a vehicle. In the US, the gear shift selector is on the left side of the tunnel and the e-brake is on the right side almost directly beside the gear selector. I consider this to be a bit awkward in the first place myself as I would prefer them to be separated instead of being side-by-side. Yet in the pics of a RHD Grand Cherokee, the console arrangement is exactly the same, which means you have to reach over the e-brake handle to reach the gear shift. I think we can all agree on one thing, with the success of Nissan North America thanks to Mr. K's guidance, and the Z being one of the first "ground up" designs to come out of Nissan after the establishment of Nissan USA, it was always intended to be a "world car".

Hey Gary, that dog just keeps getting uglier and uglier..... I've used a couple types of gaskets on headers and have had the best luck with the gaskets that are completely covered with the "dimpled foil". You can sometimes find these in a gasket set but I can't remember which manufacturer that had them.... I've used the ones with the metal inserts as well, but you need to make sure the mating surface of the header is flat and you torque the mounting bolts. With the metal inserts, you really need to re-torque the mounting bolts after a few heat cycles, as the expansion and contraction of the metal insert against the aluminum head will often times cause the header to loosen up and then you get a leak. For the money you can't hardly go wrong with the MSA gasket, but I have no experience with theirs. No matter which one you use, make sure the header has no welding slag and the ports are flat and most importantly, re-torque the header mounting bolts after a few heat cycles of the engine....

Cap pressure sounds OK, but you did say it looks original so I am assuming it has not been changed in a while? I'd get a new one just to be sure the old one isn't the problem. They will go bad over time so for 10 bucks (more or less)a new one isn't a bad idea.... You should be able to get a shop to do the radiator pressure check and leakdown test for a small charge if you don't have the tools to do it. You can usually pick up the tools needed at most any good auto parts store, however, buying tools to diagnose one problem and then never having a use for them is a waste of money. The tools for the leakdown test are usually fairly reasonably priced, but you will need and air compressor or a large air tank to do it and the radiator tester is fairly high priced.

A Quaife is a differential that uses gears instead of springs and clutch packs. It is similar to the Torson diff in that is uses helical gears to provide lockup instead of relying on the friction in the clutch type limited slips units. It is more similar to the Detroit Locker in that it provides solid engagement instead of having some amount of slippage, but the Quaife and the Torson are variable lock-up where the Detroit Lockers are either locked or unlocked. http://www.quaifeusa.com/

First off, have you tried a new radiator cap? It might be building up too much pressure and forcing the coolant out. Make sure it is a 12-14lb cap, if it is higher that may be your problem right there. Second thing that comes to mind is a leaking head gasket that is causing the pressure to build up. What to do first? Try a new cap, if that fails have the radiator pressure tested, if it loses pressure, you possibly have a leaking headgasket (barring any other leaks, but they wouldn't cause the coolant to be forced out). You could also do a cylinder leakdown test to find out for sure if the headgasket is leaking. If you find a cylinder that is losing pressure, turn the engine over until it is starting up on the compression stroke(both valve closed) and then pressurize the cylinder, if the gasket is leaking you will see bubbles in the radiator. While you are at it, you can also check your valve seat to see if they are leaking, if you have to pull the head for a gasket, it's a good time for a valve job while it's off. There is a third possibility, but hopefully it won't be a cracked head... If the engine has been overheated, it is a possibility.:disappoin

The article did say that the interactive DVD was going to be available at Nissan dealers at the end of January... Guess it's time to go visit the dealership and bug em....:devious: But I wonder how much the dealers are going to ask for them considering the way some of the dealers are gouging the prices of the 350's....:tapemouth

One thing I noticed in their descriptions of the product was that any reducer/hardener could be used with the paint. So that would make the temp/humidity reducer point moot, you might have to pay a bit more for what you need from a local supplier, but you've already saved considerably on the top coat. I don't know about EScanlon, but I think a clear coat would be a good idea, mostly to seal the paint and have it last as long as possible. The biggest problem I see with their stuff is the lack of choices of colors..:disappoin

Yup, I checked the Quantities available and he has quite a few. He's got 40 available for the Premier issue and some of the other issues have 5 to 10 available.... Maybe he bought out the printed issues from the publishers when they went out of business?

If you want a prime example of why the cops in this country are getting a black eye, it's a lot of the "new breed" of cops on the roads..... Right now there is a 22 year old Deputy Sheriff in a town near mine, been charged with supplying work release prisoners with cocaine, crack, marijuana and falsifying their drug test in order that they would supply him with drugs for his habit... He's also being linked to a murder at the moment. Too many of these cops now days are in their late teens and early 20's, with a chip on their shoulders because they wear a uniform and carry a gun. Some of them seem to think they are above the laws that they are being paid to enforce. One of the things that irks me to no end is the number of officers that habitually drive 10-20 miles an hour over the speed limit on I-81 in my area, while they are merely going to Pizza Hut or back to the station. They break the exact same laws that they ticket and chastise others for while they really have no reason to do so. If they can't lead by example, then who is going to give them any respect? As an example, many years ago I followed one of our Deputy Sheriffs down Main street once, he turned on his lights and siren, blew through a stop light, and took off at high speed and made a left turn into Pizza Hut. I drove the speed limit, did a right on red after stop, drove to Pizza Hut and pulled up behind his car as he was getting out and asked him if the place was being robbed. He replied no, so I asked him if it was common practice to do what he had done, which he denied doing and asked me what business it was of mine to follow him. Lucky us, he's now a Captain..... Now what kind of message does that send?

The magazines have been re-listed so for those of you who missed out the first time, try again. He has 13 issues listed, nearly the complete set. http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=zcar&sort=3&page=2&rows=25&since=-1&showpics=1&stab=0 He's also go 2 very early VIN number 240's up for auction, HLS30- 00051 and 305, but no pictures yet....

Never heard of this brand before. I used an "off-brand" called Limco on the race car, it was a urethane enamel that was really cheap. It was about 50 dollars for the gallon of paint and the reducer/hardener. It looked great, BUT,it didn't last long. After about 3 years, it started cracking, peeling and heat checking terribly. I didn't put a clear coat on it though, so that might have helped it hold up a bit better. Just didn't see the sense on a race car that was probably going to end up with body damage. While this does sound tempting, I would want to ask the people who gave their testimonials how long it has been on their cars, and how it has held up. If it holds up, it's sounds like a great deal, if it doesn't, then it's a waste of time more than money if you have to re-do the car in a few years. Better to spend a bit more and get a quality job than to end up with an job that last less time than the cheapest Maaco or Earl Scheib paint job...