2ManyZs

Replacing the bushings and/or struts cartridges should bring your suspension settings back to stock if anything. There are no adjustments available for camber or caster in a stock suspension so if you replace worn out components it should not adversely affect the suspension, only return it to the factory settings. The only way to adjust the camber is to replace the stock type bushings with the adjustable control arm bushings or using camber plates. It might have a slight effect on your toe-in if the toe-in was set while the suspension was out of spec due to the worn out parts that you just replaced. Getting the toe checked is a fairly simple and inexpensive check at an alignment shop.

Just for the heck of it I started one of the CarFax reports on the VIN number, it said there were 3 reports on the car. If you want to read the reports, of course you have to pay for it. Seems kinda odd that a car that supposedly has less than 20K on it has any reports at all.....

It looks way too high because of the distance from the tire to the wheel well because you have 50(?) series tires which are possibly 2 inches shorter ( or more) than the stock tires.

Looks like a probable "roll-back" to me. The wear on the seats is a dead giveaway, not only is the leather faded, but it looks to be worn almost to the point it's falling to pieces.... It says the car was stored in the winter? Where? In the hot sun of Miami? I'd say anyone that is interested in this car better do a CarFax report on it first....

Well, these might be out of your price range... But at least they are the right color for you.....:sick: :sick: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404339586&category=6187 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404746850&category=6187

Just surfing a few of my favorite sites tonight and found some videos of FFR Cobras racing... They are all a bit big for those of us on the "dinosaur" connections, but they are worth it. The one of Summit Point (where I used to race) is a blast. Unfortunately it only show 1/2 a lap of the track, and I'm glad I wasn't riding with the guy on the start..... http://www.factoryfive.com/videos.html

I don't know when they changed over in your market, but the later 260's will have a larger diameter and longer strut housing. It possibly will coincide with the introduction of the 2+2 models, as I am sure that the 2+2 springs are considerably longer than the 240 springs. 2 seater and 2+2 strut housings are more than likely the same, with only a longer spring on the 2+2's. Your negative camber problem could be partly due to bad control arm bushings if they are still the original rubber ones.

Is this the link you were talking about? http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html If you scroll down about half way down the page you'll find info on the swap. If you notice, he does recommend using the later 280 tach as the ealrier tach is not as accurate. Whether that is true or not, I don't know. You can get the early tach to work, it just isn't wired as straightforward as the later ones will be....I don't know the exact wiring as I have never used the ZX distributor upgrade...

It looks like it has a row of snaps along the rear for a top. Doubt it would be a whole lot of good though.......probably just a fold up top you stick in the trunk..... Looks like a farily decent job, they used the hatch to make a trunklid and that at least gives you a place to put a spare and maybe a suitcase which is more than a lot of the conversion kits do.... My only concern would be that the chassis were reinforced correctly. I think if I were doing one, it would also have a roll bar.

Yup, MSA does have the center caps, both the push in and bolt on, $6.95 each..... Burt, as far as the other wheels, they look great, if you can get them for less than 450 for the set, all the better. Those are the only ZX wheels that look good on an earlier Z in my opinion. Personally, my first choice will always be the Panasports. MSA does have them in a 14x6 so that would suit your car perfectly. Guess it's all a matter of personal taste, everyone's idea of the "perfect" wheel will never be the same.

Not a bad price.. Just needs a warmer climate so it could be used a bit more often... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2403973345&category=6187

Phooey.... I looked in the one pic and you can see that they used the bolt on center caps, which are gonna be darn hard to find...:stupid: Not impossible, just a lot harder to find than the snap in, or the rear mounted caps....:disappoin

Well, I've posted this before but you should always bleed the master cylinder before you bleed the wheel cylinders. When you add fluid to the master, if there is any trapped air when you add the fluid, it may not get all the way to the wheel cylinders when you bleed the cylinders. Therefore, you have introduced air into the system while you are trying to do the opposite, and have defeated your own purpose. If, after a proper bleeding, you still have to pump the brake pedal, I would suspect you have a bad master cylinder, barring any leaks in the system such as a wheel cylinder or brake line.

For anyone that has a Z and a Roadster, this should get you closer to having a true "Dream Garage" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404637417&category=6188

Hmm, let's see. FJ20,or VG30, lowered, widers wheels.... Talk about a sleeper....:devious: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404273239&category=6188

If a set of used slots is what you want, take a look at this auction. The price is only up to 150 for the set, and they are 14x6 so the tires you have should fit fine... Only thing is it will take a little "elbow grease" to polish them up, but that is fairly easy with the right polish.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2403880260&category=33748

Back in the late 70's I would imagine it would have been quite expensive to do. With today's billet aluminum heads and cams, belt driven cams, and the wide array of pistons available it's kinda sad no one will give it another shot at a conversion kit. It could probably done quite easily and fairly priced. Especially when you see how many millions of dollars that must going into R&D and manufacturing of all the aftermarket pieces for the 350Z already....not to mention all the other cars on the market.

What I would really like to see is someone that would just make the head to put on an L-28 block, now that would sell..... Shame no one has ever just done the top end of that engine in the aftermarket.:disappoin You would think with all the millions of dollars spent developing parts for the aftermarket, someone, somewhere would have had it done by now...

Burt, forget American Racing if you want new wheels. They used to have a lot of choices of styles in 14 inch and 4 lug. The last time I looked, they only had one style of wheel that was available in 4 lug.:disappoin I personally like the Panasports the best, they are a vintage look on a Z, they don't have a lot of hard places to clean like some do. The Revolutions are OK, but I believe they have such a thick hub flange that longer studs are almost a necessity. I believe Royce has a set on his car, you might try PM'ing him to see if he had any trouble with the wheel studs being a bit too short.

Arghhhh.... I can't find the papers I had from GC about measurement for the perch.... I guess I could get out in the garage in the next day or so and measure the ones on the 240... You gonna make me shovel more snow to get to the door of the garage? If no one else can give it to you, I'll go measure it Friday and get back to you, tomorrow is gonna be a busy one...

I think the 75-76's are the same, but the 77-78 are a bit different in the latch. But, I don't think they are so dissimilar that you couldn't put the 76 latch on the 77 door. I believe the strikers are the difference, but don't know if they can be swapped for sure, never tried it...

Admit it, you just like the color of the engine block...:sick: :cross-eye

If you are trying to put the strut back on the steering arm with the top of the strut still mounted you are going to find it to be a difficult job to say the least. You shouldn't have to separate the tie rod from the steering arm as the control arm should go low enough. You might need an extra pair of hands to do this, especially with the tire still on, but unbolting the top of the strut and taking it out of the strut tower pocket is a much easier way to do it. Bolt the strut housing to the steering arm and then using your foot, push the entire assembly down until the top of the strut will go back in the upper mount is the easier way to do it. Be careful not to pull the brake line apart, you might have to unhook the brake line to get enough slack to push the control arm down far enough that the strut mount insulator will clear the lip around the upper mounting surface. You could also at the same time use one of my little tricks, go to the parts store and buy 3 stainless steel 2 1/2 inch hose clamps, the heavy duty ones and loop them around 3 or 4 coils of the spring and tighten them with a ratchet and they will compress the spring to give you a bit more slack in the suspension. You might be able to get enough compression on the spring that you can bolt the strut housing onto the steering arm without taking the top on the strut loose. Unfortunately it will be a lot easier if you can get the tire off, you should try to do that somehow to make the job a lot easier....

I think it may be Mperdue after spending too much time at the all-you-can-eat burrito buffet...

Don't know how my name got "dragged" into this....:devious: But maybe he should check those control arm bushings while he's at it, every Z owner needs to learn how to take those spindle pins out...