2ManyZs

Most are already in our Links section.... and don't forget to check out MidwestZ. http://www.classiczcars.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Web_Links&file=index&l_op=viewlink&cid=1

trs, you might want to look at what this guy has to offer... all you need then is the manifold and linkage.... but, for what he asks for carbs, you'd be saving enough to get most any manifold..... http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=alfa1750&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

Hmm, who's geezing now Mr. ZMeCruise? :devious:

I think you all have missed the emphasis on this car, it was built more for "show" than "go"....the chroming of control arms and suspension pieces tells me right away it is more at home sitting in a field with mirrors underneath to show off all the money that was spent on it...Kinda on the same line as the abominable "4x4" Z's we've seen at shows..... :sick: yeah, it's got a lot of "go-fast" pieces, but it wasn't built to show off how it can go... only that the owner has plenty of money to spend on something that can't be used as anything other than a show-off piece.

Before you worry about brakes and engines Steve, you better get a rule book, as I don't think semi-tube chassis are even legal in GT classes anymore. I'm fairly sure you would need a straight axle in the rear as well..... There are maximums on the brakes as well as the engines, and the bigger you go with either, you have to carry a higher weight penalty. If you want to run on slicks with the SCCA, about the only classes available for a Z are SPO(Super Production Over 2 or 2.5 litre) and E Production.

Truthfully, the distributor can only be installed in one position, relative to the tangs on the drive..... It's the drive gear that can be installed incorrectly, as can the cam gear, either of which spells disaster when trying to set the timing.

Nice, but I think their starting price might be a bit optimistic... the last Z Store car that sold on ebay went for under 25K, if I remember right it was closer to 20K.... And, since this is a late 71 (8/71 build date) it has pieces from early and late, notice it has the early style console, yet has the vents on the C pillars... I'd be willing to bet they won't get any bids, since their starting price is already near the upper end of what might be an expected high bid.....now, that isn't saying it isn't worth it.... but, if they had started it at say, 20K, they might have expected a bidding war and the price to get driven up accordingly.

Sounds to me like the distributor drive is out of time with the crank... I'd be willing to bet you have recently had the oil pump off? That's the only way the points would be closed if the engine is at TDC on the timing mark.

What it's worth is how badly people want one... I've seen them go for as much as 150...:disappoin They are getting hard to find, as they were discontinued early in the 70 model year...

Thought you went down there on "business"..... now we see what you were really doing.... checking out the local "sights".... You probably scared her when you tried to handcuff yourself to her...:devious:

Only true though when talking about later Z models.... the early L-Jetronic has no simple diagnostic tests.......only manual testing and without a Factory Service Manual you are flying blind.

One thing on the rev limiters.. yes, the MSD 6AL may use a chip, but they seem to be the most accurate. One of our members recently put a new system in his IT car, and set the rev limiter that is built in to the unit, and it was cutting in much lower than what he had it set for.... Depending on its useage, sometimes the "old style" like the MSD are better, as they are a proven combination, and as such, sometimes can be much more reliable. Some of the newer units don't like vibration, heat, or won't operate with fluctuating input voltages. Just something to think about...

Looks like a Darwin award winner to me... at least he'll look good going to get his award since he an afford a Mercedes.....

If it's that post laying behind and to the right of the right rear tire, I'd say the bumper did a fantastic job...

All that money in chrome, all that labor, and to put an ugly paint job on it that belongs on a 32 Highboy or a 50's hot rod.........:stupid: :sick: It's a nice car, but the first thing I would do is put a decent paint job on it...

And you thought the warmth was radiating off her.. and here it was the "stainless steel frying pan" behind you reflecting the sun... Least ya could have done was pose by the Shelby...:cheeky:

Oops..... I thought about that after I posted the reply......:stupid:

Err, Carl, if you look in Tanny's gallery you'll see he has a couple pics of himself that have been posted for a while now..... All he needs to do is move one of them over to the new mugshot gallery and he's all set..... greyghost, that's the first time I've ever looked directly at a Delorean without cringing.....

Double check that you didn't knock a wire loose at either the coil or ballast resistor, or the wires from the distributor....

I just did a search here, because I remembered a couple other guys in Hawaii that are members here. Their usernames are Robbz and Framework, but neither of them have been active in a the last 6 months that that I know of.... Don't know if that will help you, but at least you know you aren't alone......

Well, if it is any consolation, it looks like it held up pretty darn good. If it had not done its job, the damage could have been a lot worse...the headlight covers themselves would have been a shame to lose considering how expensive they have become.

I believe the Mallory part number is MAL-4763901... I had to look around to see where I wrote it down, as I plan on going the same route with one of my cars...

Besides the low volume production models such as the 432R's, the lowest VIN numbers of each models production, and the low volume "Special Edition" (Zap-Z, Black Pearls, ZXR's, and Anniversary Edition) model cars, I'd have to include cars that are still in their original owners hands. Cars with original paint, etc, which after 30+ years could be considered true "survivors"... Or, cars with a true racing history, whether or not it was amateur or professional racing and is still in its "as raced" condition. You could even say any car that still has its original floor pans and all chassis parts with no rust as a "rare" car as well. Or a car that has gone from Japan to the US, and back again more than once....In which case, I'd have to say Kats owns the "rarest" of all the members here, since his car is probably one of the only HLS-30 cars that now resides in Japan.

I wasn't speaking of your driving, but you never know what a previous owner may have done... I'd check the stub axle first, take the wheel off and see if there is any fore and aft play in the stub axle, or even up and down, which might show if you have a worn out bearing and/or a loose stub axle. Secondly, check all the u-joints, not just the ones on the half shaft at that wheel, since the vibration could be transmitted through the entire driveline if the u-joint is really bad and you haven't replace the suspension bushings yet, which would only amplify the problem. Also, check all the mounting bolts on the flanges as well.

Since you are quite sure it isn't the wheel/tire, then the next obvious things would be the stub axle, u-joints, worn out strut cartridge, worn bushings, or a combination of more than one of the above. I'd start with the strut cartridge, then go to the stub axle, then the rest of the driveline and bushings. It is possible that it is something other than these, which might have been a result of hitting a curb and bending the control arm, or something of that nature...