Jeff G 78

It might work as long as you verify that the manifold hole lines up exactly with the stud. It is entirely possible that they are not exactly lined up.

Drill and extract and then insert a Helicoil.

No, I never tried a two line setup Mark. I should have one laying around, but I never really thought about it before you brought it up.

Mark, my carbs are '72 three screw round tops while the intake and fuel rail are/were late '74 and were three-line. The water lines are gone from the intake.

I thought about doing that, but the isolators would have to be able to handle very high temps. The bolts would also have to be isolated, otherwise the heat would still transfer. I'm sure it could be done, but I decided to just remove the steel rail and keep it all rubber.

My endurance racer 260Z with round tops was a disaster until I rerouted the fuel line and used all rubber. We tried an electric pump, return line, no return line, heat shielding everywhere, and even running without the hood. None of the changes helped under racing conditions. I even swapped to a different set of carbs mid-race with no improvement. Finally in one race, I pitted and installed a rubber hose, bypassing the steel rail. The car ran flawlessly for the next 9 hours of the race. We fought back from 35th place to 9th place. I am convinced that the only real fix is eliminating the heat transmitted through the fuel rail mounts. The heat shielding, electric pump, and hood venting likely help, but only the rubber fuel supply eliminated the issue. We still run the shielding and the electric pump along with the back of the hood propped up a few inches just to be safe. My biggest surprise was the lack of improvement with the hood removed.

Not to add to the confusion, but you might want to also check out Web Racing Camshafts. They are well-respected and can offer advice based on your setup.

I didn't see the episode, but I'm sure I'll see it eventually in reruns. Was it an actual auction, or was it a mail-in request that they do before/after a commercial? How did the car look? If it was an actual auction, what auction house and what did it bring?

Is that corrosion/rot in the #1 chamber between the valves? I can't tell what I'm seeing. I guess the dowels were keeping it stuck...

Sometimes you get lucky with head bolts. Once the head is off, they sometimes back right out. Soak it with penetrating oil and then drill and extract. A good welder can tack weld a small bolt to the broken piece for removal too.

Unfortunately, another vendor will no longer be serving the Z community. Black Dragon Auto has announced that as of the December 31, 2016, they are done with Datsuns. They were never the best, but I have bought a lot of parts from them over the years. It was always nice to have options.

Is it just an optical illusion that the passenger side head bolts appear to still be in place? I know you said you removed them, but I swear I see them in the second pic. Edit: Nevermind... I put on my glasses and can now see for sure that they are out. I've had them stick, but never to the extent that I couldn't get it off without a good yank by hand. The front small bolts are usually the culprit, but you said you got them. Try using a 2x4 across the car as a lever arm. Place one end of the board on the RH strut tower top mount nuts and place a very short ratchet strap over the 2x4 with both ends hooked to the front lifting eye. Lift the opposite end of the 2x4 up GENTLY to unstick it.

Should be a simple fix. The timing is controlled by the shaft which is geared to the crank, so you don't need to worry about messing up the timing. It can only go back together one way. I'd remove the two bolts that hold the distributor base onto the front cover and pull the whole thing out since you will need to extract the adjustment bolt anyways. Is part of the bolt still in the distributor mount? Once pulled, you might get lucky and screw it out the bottom. Soak it in PB Blaster and let it sit for a bit before attempting to get it out. If it is frozen, you will need to carefully drill and tap to extract it and clean the threads. The bolt is a 6mm x 1.25 with a 10mm hex head. Center punch a dimple as close as possible to the center of the broken bolt and then drill through it with a very small bit. Redrill with larger bits until you are near the threads. At this point, the bolt will usually come out with a bolt extractor. Hit the threads of the base with a 6mm x 1.25 tap and install a new bolt. The P/N is on the side of the distributor and can be seen once removed.

I've never thought twice about that part. I guess I will inspect it from now on anytime a trans is out.

The input shaft didn't have much, if any extra play Zed. I was surprised to see the broken sleeve as I haven't seen a failure like that before. If appeared to have broken right at the front cover, though I didn't study it close enough to see if it fatigued from flex. I donated a 4 speed to Al for the front cover and whatever internals he can use. Hopefully all goes well with the rebuild.

Thanks Zed! Sorry @Arne, you will never be forgotten around here.

I actually didn't Matt. I sold my Z local and then it was sold local again to a guy who moved to France and took it with him. We did have a member here who sold his 240Z to a foreign buyer. He's not around the forum any longer after buying a 911 to replace his Z. I'm drawing a complete blank on his name, but I'm sure somebody will chime in and post it.

Like others have said, it makes me sad to see you sell your incredible Z, but I understand and wish you the best with both the sale and your business venture. I agree that Barrett Jackson is not the right venue for a Z. The cars that bring good money there are American muscle cars. The bidders just aren't there for Japanese cars. BAT is a good place to start and then maybe try to find a foreign buyer even though I'd hate to see another Z leave the country. One of my old 240's is now in Paris.

I don't have a direct answer, but I sent my race car's flywheel to Top End Performance and had them lighten it. I recall that they took about 9 lbs. off going from 25 to 16. I installed a new OE spec Exedy clutch and it works great. My engine makes around 200 HP at the flywheel. It has about 20 road race hours on it and everything is good. I think they charged about $175 plus return shipping at the time or something like that. It was well cheaper than buying an aftermarket flywheel. UPDATE: I just checked TEP's website to verify my numbers and their long-time machinist died unexpectedly last week. They are no longer offering flywheel lightening. I'm sure you could find a local machinist who could lighted your flywheel. The prints are available on the internet for the cut pattern.

I made mine in 5 minutes in the middle of a race. It isn't pretty, but as a test, simply replace the fuel rail with a length of hose from the fuel supply pipe near the frame rail to the front carb with a T fitting and a second hose to the rear carb. Cap off the return pipe near the frame rail. If the temporary fix woks (mine fixed 100% of the issues), you can play with a more elegant solution to accomplish the same thing.

After struggling with heat related issues while racing for several years, I finally ditched the steel OE fuel rail and the problem was solved. I had tried every type of heat shielding with no luck. In the end, I believe that the heat was coming through the steel rail mounts and into the rail. The insulation on the rail did a great job of holding the heat in. Once I went to an all-rubber supply, I have no issues.

Sounds and looks great!

My dad always called them railroad jacks too. He used to have several sets, though I think he sold them when he moved to Phoenix. Exhaust looks great Cliff. Is that a R180 diff? My R200 is bigger and has a square corner making the pipe fit that much tougher.

I'm thinking that like Zed Head said, their tolerances must be very big. Sounds like their "Premium" system is just as hard to line up as the regular system.