Aussie Zed

If you don't mind looking like a complete nut-job, the best way to tell how a muffler will sound on your car (short of hearing it on someone else's car that is the same as yours) is to hold it over your mouth yell into it. You look (and sound) like a complete idiot but it is the best way to get an idea of how it will sound. Seriously.

Bump! Anyone got any ideas??? Surely someone knows?

I've checked the three resistors, which, anticlockwise from top left on the pic above are: 670 Ohm, 620 Ohm and 20,000 Ohm as they should be (easier to see the colours in real life). I've also checked that the fuse hasn't burnt out. I'm not sure but I think the copper winding (don't know proper name) has an open circuit somewhere in it. I could just be missing the ends to measure and i don't even know if it is supposed to be like this. Any further ideas? Jon

Thanks Alan, i'll have a look at the resistors and see if they are correct for a start.

Oh no, not another bloody 'my clock doesn't work' question... :stupid: From what i've read on this the main problem with Z clocks is that they get all gummed up and stop working. Well, i took mine apart and it looks brand new - see the attatched pics. This leads me to believe that it is the motor that has stopped working as from what i've read this is the other bit that goes. It is from a 260Z and the motor is integral with the spindle thingo (i think). Question: does anyone actually know how to fix this themselves, i'm pretty keen to have a go myself and learn something new rather than take it to a watchmaker or something.

Stick with me here, i've done a bit of a rough estimate and assumed that you have a coefficient of drag of around 0.4 (not unreasonable, but not great either), the frontal area of you car is 2m squared (sorry if you don't speak metric) and that you'll make 400hp at the rpm that the top speed is reached. i have a nice fat long equation that is used to calculate the theoretical maximum velocity: Power/Velocity - .5*(density of air)(Drag coef)(Frontal Area)*(Velocity)^2 - rolling resistance*mass*gravity = 0 now if you plug in all the values: Power = 400hp = ~300kW =~255 Rear Wheel kW (85% driveline efficiency) density of air = ~1.2kg/m^3 Cd = 0.4 (bit of a guess) Frontal area = 2m^2 (bit of a guess) rolling resistance = ~ 0.014 (pretty reasonable assumption) mass = ~1200kg acceleration due to gravity =~9.81m/s^2 Solving this on my simple graphics calculator gives me a top speed of 79.58 m/s Or around 176.8 mph!! :knockedou As i said at the start there are a few guesses involved here, if anyone has a better guess for the values above, i'll plug them in - it only takes a second to change on my calculator. Jon

They look great! Suits your car's style well. Are they 15"s? :knockedou Jon

Thanks for all your thoughts, mostly along the lines i'm thinking. I had looked into the superlites, which were around the same price as the rewinds but i didn't think they looked right - too many spokes or something??? But i've just gone and had a look at Gav's car, which has them on already and i reckon that looks pretty damn good. Here's the link to that pic: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=13977&size=big&cat=3135&page=1 Mind you, i reckon the konigs on Orange260's car look pretty good too. Here's the link to that pic: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14445&cat=500&page=1 I've come to the conclusion that red car's need shiny silver wheels though. I've attatched the pic of how the superlites look on their own - i still think they look wrong off the car!

I can't get enough of Z videos! Nice sounding car, i just wish the music wasn't interfering with my listening pleasure. Great vid tho!

I'm gonna be the popular guy on here who says the wrong thing now but... I'd have to say i don't mind those alfas, only the early ones mind you. BUT, i'd have to agree with GunnerRob on the high prices for parts - you've been living an easy life with a datsun on this front. Also if anyone here thought that Zs had a tendancy to rust, wait until you've experienced the tin worm in an Alfa! Everything is a compromise though and you have to measure up the sexy alfa's curves and DOHC sound vs Datsun cheap maintinence and a pretty solid car. just my 2 cents

Hi all, i'm looking into getting some Konig Rewinds - seem like pretty good value to me. Anyway, i've done some pretty (read: very) dodgy photoshop work and have superimposed them over the top of my wheels. I'm just after some opinions of what people think looks the best. If i had my way i'd have black with a polished lip on a white or silver car - but i reckon red is too dark a colour to have black wheels. The jellybean wheels are what i've got on it at the moment and are 14s. I think i'm going to get 15" Rewinds. Opinions...

Anyone else just see that silver zed with the orange bonnet stripe on the car show on CH 9? seen pictures of it before but it was good to see it in motion and hear it. Pretty clean car.

It all started with my grandfather, who restored quite a few cars as a hobby to take his mind off of work. Not a bad hobby i'm sure you'll all agree. But by about ten years ago he'd become a little bit frail physically, still really switched on though and he suggested that we find a project car to restore and he'd help us. We looked for a while and found this car that had been delivered new to Adelaide from the US and i'm lead to believe bodied by Holdens locally. I can't remember exactly where but it was sitting in a big shed somewhere in the South East of South Aust. This method of bodying was standard practice at the time, cars would be made as a rolling chassis, usually with the engine, driveline, radiator, etc and a local coachmaker would put a body to it. I don't think holden made a full car on their own until '48 when the FX came out. By the looks of it, this car is very original, it looks as though the trim is still the original, and is the only part that has been taken off, we still have the trim and hood for making patterns. It has an electric starter, which is handy - saves cranking by hand. Not all cars had them in the 1920s! The engine looks pretty small in the pics but it's a fair sized lump up close. 6cly side valve with 2¾" bore and 4¾" stroke. Long stroke motors are typical of the era, in which cars didn't rev much. It utilises an autovac fuel pump, which is a clever system, running off the engine's vacuum. The 'mascot' on the radiator is actually a temperature gauge, the little clear circle shows the driver the top portion of the thermometer, letting the driver see when it's getting hot. We're selling it because one of the cars my grandfather restored is sitting in a museum, not having been driven for a while and we're clearing a space for it. I can't think of anything else interesting right now, but feel free to ask any questions. I've attatched a couple more pics and i'll put some more in my gallery Jon

Here's the link to the classified section: http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=583&sort=1&cat=1&page=1 I've got stacks more pics (i went a bit crazy with the digital camera), which i'm happy to post for anyone who would like to see them - even if they aren't interested in buying the car. Jon

We're selling this car, which we bought as a project maybe 10 years ago and haven't found the time to do. We identified it as a great project car because aside from the trim, which is still there (just taken off) it hasn't been got at by anyone! The car was delivered to Adelaide originally (which is where it's for sale) I thought that either someone on here would be interested or know someone who might be. AU$5500 ono.

Yep... That's nice. Seeing those pics can't help but keep the rest of us motivated! Nice work! Jon

What condition is you wiring? Bad question... but, it could just be that some part in the ignition circuit is loose and the circuit opens over a small bump or something. This would be cheaper than a coil or dizzy - a good rule of thumb to check first.