madkaw

2010 Zcon was HOT! I don't care and I will b there if it kills me getting my car back on the road again

You can do the old blow thru test to see if the needle is closing off the flow.

So when you opened up lid on that float was it high? Make sure your needle and seat are sealing. Make sure the needle assembly is tight in the housing and fuel is not bypassing around the threads

Got to love that sound:)

Very nice indeed

We won't hold the jersey part against you. Welcome

Digging into it for a known problem or just thinking refresh? What's your experience? If your asking how long it takes to remove the head then I would assume you have little Z experience Like Zed said- if you run into anymore then a refresh it will take time to find an experienced L machinist. If it's just bearings and rings and crank polish - it shouldn't take long. Usually it's the head that will cost the most time and money.

So here are some pics of the cylinder bores. Also pics of my Chevy Sonic pick-up truckLOL

Usually the harness is okay except for areas subject to heat or direct weather. I would clean and replace only where necessary . Blades or pins I tried cleaning with sandpaper or mini file to get fresh surface- the dielectric grease after that

Just the fact that he e-mailed me back right away was a plus in my book . I've been waiting a week or so for Schneider to call me. PM me for a cell number, I hate the messenger on this site.

Cliff, Recently discovered DatsunZfiberglass . The guy makes it all it seems, but the website kin of sucks. I did e-mail him and he did respond. Might be worth a look

Well the block and pistons are at the machinist. A cursory inspection by him and he said I had nothing to worry about. He agreed to measure everything out and thought a good hone and new rings and I would be good to go. I pulled the crank out of my original motor and going to replace the crank in this motor in order to eliminate the speedi sleeve on the rear seal. I guess you would say I am starting over again from the beginning. This time I will do all the assembly work. It's time for me to learn how to do this and I feel pretty confident I can do it. I haven't heard from Schneider on the progress of my cam. I miss driving my Z

ummmm, not that I know from first hand experience or anything, but I heard you can get two rubber marks when launching.

I have to agree with Carl, it's American greed that dictates how stuff is made. If the vendor says' make it as cheaply as possible' , that's what the Chinese manufacture will do. It's the guy ordering the product that should be setting an assuring the quality of the product.

That's funny Charles. That kind of LSD may or may not get you better handling of stuff-

Ummm- doesn't Nissan still sell those seals?

timing #'s?

Kind of weird the mn47 head gave such low CR numbers . The pistons should take effort to push up, but try some trans fluid and see what it does. How do you just find a mn47 head in the junk yard. I've been trying to run into one of those myself

SHAMELESS! If I were you I would take it to Leon. To have a Z expert in your backyard is priceless. There are many on this site that would love to have that advantage. It will save you time and money and you can enjoy your Z sooner by figuring things out early.

So you lost power after going to the 47 head? Or it had 'scary' power with which head? Don't forget the basics, a good tune is everything. Done a valve adjustment since installing the rebuilt head? Installing a 47 head you will loose compression despite being rebuilt with respect to the e31 head, so it won't run quite the same. What ignition are you running? More info is always good for troubleshooting!

Why wouldn't it?

Really no reason for your car to idle that fast in the first place, the cam is not that big. You probably have a vacuum leak as suggested. Search you tube for troubleshooting vacuum leaks

Those cam specs look like my Schneider Cam stage 2 -which should idle like normal-not 1100 rpm.

Look at the head pic of the combustion chambers. The last three cylinders I had most of the issue, but #2 fouled on me also.You can see the difference looking at the valves from a distance. The pistons had a sheen to the top of them besides also having a carbon layer-the shinier ones were 4,5,6. There were moments I had this motor running rich, but with a wideband I knew most of it's life--until lately--it ran well. I didn 't have a perpetual problem with this motor running rich or the O2 sensor would have showed that. I had some carb issues , but I always knew I had a problem right away because of the o2 and looking at my plugs. Maybe a combination of issues piling up on each other. I knew I had an issue with rockers-which effected valves, which needed to be addressed. I didn't expect to see this much build up. I didn't really poke at the crud on the valves and i haven't seen them out of the head. The head is at the machine shop now. I will say the HG showed had this crud on the fire ring edge and it wasn't hard, more oil like mixed with carbon.

They weren't stock seals, but seals that were recommended for a higher lift cam. Not enough to tell if i was.