madkaw

Looks great Cliff

You posted 189 hp when the dyno sheet showed 189 torque(reversed). I agree that the cam should have allowed good hp all the way to 6500rpm. You might have been drowning in fuel too. Did you degree the cam? All the reading I've done on these motors I would say the 42 head was your limiting factor. No quench head.

And you have your numbers reversed. I thought a stroker would have more torque than hp

Nice numbers. I'm figuring the 42 head had no combustion work- reshaping. afrs were kind of piggy at higher rpm. You might have lost some HP there. I'm guessing timing was limited by knock?

Haven't got a lot done, but have made some progress. After deciding .030 over rings weren't going to cut it, I have ordered .040 over rings. Maybe not the conventional way of doing this, but I guess going to the next size ring will still fit correctly as far as being concentric and allow a tighter gap. After taking many measurements it seems that these pistons (sealed power I believe) are big as far as being .030 over. The piston skirt measures right about .030 over not leaving hardly any clearance. Getting the clearance plus adding a fresh hone added to the bore size enough that rings came up a bit short. If the pistons weren't so new I would be getting .040 over set, but I am taking the cheap route. Money will be spent when the L28 comes into play. This block is all about learning and experimenting. My Isky cam arrived and looks pretty! Still not sure on the rockers. i told the machinist we would swipe the Delta regrinds and see how that turns out. He is still doing valves. Probably going to shoot for 40cc chambers at this point.

Did you see the 88mm pistons with the 38mm deck height. They call them low CR pistons. Wonder if they are flat tops

Nice find. Tony is always pushing the VW parts. I think the forged stuff is reasonable too

That's 2 Steve's that told him that !

Sounds like someone is itching to make a header! Wouldn't it be fun to make something like the Kameari octopus header in SS

Good thought on putting the starter on. It's about impossible to turn over by hand fast enough to do a good test . You should be able to tell somewhat the condition with a compression test. Might take note of the cam timing also.

How much or are you going to shave the head? CR you are going for?

Guy, I was referring to the 500 pistons

Is that 100$ per hole?

I've heard Tony D mention something about VW pistons. What about 240sx pistons? You have a torque plate for that kind of overbore?

I see the scribe mark now. Don't know about soda blasting but I couldn't imagine it hurting anything top or bottom. What month/ year is that head? Looks like the casting is not quite as good as mine. Mine is 9/71

I assume you are using the Hg as a guide-though I see no guide lines marked on the head. Don't get under the fire ring of the HG, just the edge. Don't forget to do those nasty spark plug threads in the chamber. Smooth out any threads no being used.

I would turn out your 50's as many turns as needed to get it running right. Don't be afraid to go out over 2 turns until you get some 55 to throw in.

Yep-they moved the bolt spacing to accommodate the larger brake booster. You need the pedal box that lines up with the smaller booster I believe.

Good find on the thread Cliff. Those notches look familiar. They look prettier than mine. Not sure I would worry about performance losses associated with notching, but oversizing ports for sure.

Cliff, If I were to do it all over again on a L24, I probably notch both sides but stay on the conservative side. You wouldn't loose much compression, and what you lost there you would probably gain in flow. Google bore reliefs for valves and you will see it has been done before on other engines. Maybe my pistons will be up for sale after all is said and done Cliff if you haven't bought any yet. I want to move on to the L28, but really wanted to dyno my L24 with the triples. So I might pull the other l24 out of the shed if need be. I just pulled apart my L28 and the crank and pistons look great. It had another 100K left in her easy. Looks like a hone, rings and bearings!

Well today was notch checking day-and they were all fine. My main concern was verifying that the notch did not extend into the ring area. The notches actually cleared more than what I thought they would. I verified by installing piston with top ring and using permanent marker around the bore. I ran the piston up and down in the bore until the top ring wore the marker off and that gave me a line of reference. I also checked my oil clearances using plastic gauge and they were in tolerance. Next issue is rings. My rings do not fit my bores. The gaps are excessive. I actually have two sets of NEW rings and both sets show excessive end gap. I have seen as much as .027 on the top ring. I have had discussions with the machinist and without going thru the whole conversation I have decided to take my block and pistons to someone else for a second opinion. I believe the machinist went to far overbore to fix scratches that his machine put in the bore. I don't have exact dimensions but it sounded that he went to the limit of the tolerance. The only way to be sure is to take it somewhere else. If this is the case, I might just move on to my L28. Or my other option is to pull my numbers matching block out and work it.

I was suprised the sanding drums cut the block myself. It's a slow process and you will burn up a lot of drums, but slow is better. Or you could start out with a steel carbide and finish out with the sanding drum. A plan is good

Great-your rockers look pretty. Just make sure you check the wipe pattern on BOTH the cam and valve stem. My rockers were supposedly new Nissans and my cam new Schneider. 12k miles later I am rebuilding me head. 99% sure it was the rockers not having parallel surfaces , but there is a chance the cam wasn't right. Very first rocker I checked was not flat side to side by .014 on the cam surface . The machinist found this using a dial indicator on a machined surface. Search you tube for Delta rockers and see. My point is to make sure you verify the regrind carefully

Might consider doing the notching now while everything is clearly marked. Your piston rings and HG have left you a perfect guide or line to NOT PASS while you are grinding. You can lay the HG on the head and mark a center line for the valve centerline and transfer that to the block. This will show you where the the outer radius or edge of the valve will be. Grinding now before cleaning makes sense too. As far as grinding tools , I used a 60 grit drum sander on a dremmel. It is very controlable and takes material off slowly and smoothly. If it happens to jump around it won't gouge anything like a carbide bit will.

Guy, that 79 looks great. What a good looking chamber .