madkaw

Well I changed my other mind again. I decided that I wasn't going to settle with the L24 block the way it was(to far over bore/sloppy), so I broke out my original l24 out of the shed and dropped it off at a different machinist. I handed him my pistons and told him to fit the bores to the pistons. He called the other day and talked numbers again and said the boring had started. This should allow me to use my(expensive) .030 rings and a chance to redo my bore notching. No cylinder head done yet. My machinist-soon to be ex machinist, send the rocker to the wrong address and that caused a big delay. I sent them to Rocker arms USA in CA. Going to compare them with the ones I got from Delta. I am pushing the machinist to have the head done first of May-we'll see. At the same time I am cleaning up my zx block. When I pick up the l24 I am going to drop the L28 for tank and magna-flux. After seeing the flat tops clean up like new, I am guessing the bores will take a deglaze and be done. I am excited that this will be a cheap fast short block for whatever head I use. trying to get a MN47 for this block to make a real performance l28.

Water stain lines from a previous bad HG?

Never heard the term artifacts when it comes to engines. Sorry but not sure what the marks are from. I just broke down a ZX motor with 110K miles and couldn't believe how well it looked. The pistons cleaned up like new.

I give it a shot. Looking for something very particular , but who knows. Thanks

Don't count timing until it's verified since an 'old geezer ' has messed with the curve. You might be just running on initial timing:)

I'll buy the beer!

Changing bulbs with the dash out is too easy:)

How about Redding CA?

Cylinder head

Looking to grab a part from Pickn.pull there and would pay someone for their time.

You nailed it Captain- thanks!!! All bulbs checked

Have you checked timing at 3000 rpm? This would tell you if the mechanical advance is working.

Thank you, I will give it a shot in the morning.

I have the dash sitting on the bench 9/71 and I want to test all my dash lights while it's sitting in front of me. What wires can I jumper with a 12v source to get that done?

Check to make sure the gland nut is actually bottoming out on the top of the shock. Another words you might have play between the top of the insert and the nut. Especially if you did not reuse original glad nuts. You run out of thread on the gland nut and it tightens up before it ever touches the insert. Use a washer to close this gap

Cliff, I would think one plate does all

I wonder what justifies a mandatory use of such plate. They suggest using them for all over bores and honing, but you know very few shops are using them . I imagine the larger the over bore the more necessary it gets

What would it cost to machine one I wonder? I wish one was available to rent within the Z community. I would be willing to pay a high deposit to rent one. It's one of tools that you really should use but will not use much.

My judgement was made based on what I saw on my AFR gauge using SM needles. I still believe stock needles are more than adequate for stock L motors.

SM are too big for a stock L24. They were to big for my cammed L24. Put the stock ones back in.

I was wondering how that swap was going. I met you at C&C in Indy. My car started better with a rich idle mixture. My Mikuni's are dead headed at the carbs, no return line. Holley regulator. I think it's all in this thread. Glad to hear from you.

Welcome to the transition nightmare!. You are right there in the zone between 2500-3000. For me it was during moderate acceleration in that zone. I could usually blast right thru that stumble during WOT throttle. I used to watch the AFR go up to 16+ and then the stumble. I played with my bleed pipes that were inside my emulsion tubes, but not sure of your set-up. I finally started filling the bleed pipe holes with solder with good results. I had tried everything else including float levels, pilot jets, pump jets and settings, main air jets, main jets without much luck. I would push the pilot jet as far as you --even running 12 afr at idle and see if that helps. You need to remember that you are dealing with many variables with triple sidedrafts-this isn't your quadrajet. These carbs weren't meant to be daily drivers as much as they were for racing. Todd at Wolfcreek could not offer much more help then getting the carbs tuned for racing. When I would describe my transition issue he would say you have them running pretty good if you ask me. When they run good though.... https://youtu.be/NGh6urUlzcQ

I also found an older post in hybridz regarding the sizing on the rod end. Looks like you are okay- according to Tony D

Did you order just pistons or did you have to buy the cylinders too? Was wondering if they would cut a break on just pistons

Zed is very correct in a very common sense way. I know you have all these heads laying around but the head developed for that dish pistoned engine would be best and probably the least investment-especially if you want to sell off any of the ones you have. It's a non quench head so a matching head would probably work best. A late e88 would best as far as valve size but it isn't until the n47 that has steel seats? Tuning will always be the biggest issue as far as power.