madkaw

People are cautious when selecting cams and not getting too big, but these motors do fine and stay civil for the street. I wouldn't recommend anything less than 270/480 and it would be perfectly streetable . love it when a plan(engine ) comes together !!!

Don't want to take them out

You are fighting the valve springs and a fresh motor, so maybe you are just over thinking things. It is a little unnerving when you worried whether it's valves clashing or just that tight.

, I show that head as having 44.7 chambers , according to the Ozdat engine calculator. That puts you at 9.7 before shaving off .020. Something is not right here, unless that's a euro e88 that had bigger chambers. Sure you measured right?

I would fret over a 1cc measurement difference. I think that answers your question about what version e88 head.it is.. I would stay conservative on CR with that combustion chamber. Might work on making sure the valves have been unshrouding to improve flow as much as possible. I'm running a stage 3 with 9.5 and it has plenty of pop!

late e88

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109975-turbo-intake-manifold-fabbing/

Richard, this was an abandoned project that I bought off of eBay . I'm surprised in my postings on here and hybridz that no one has claimed it. It was a very nice start to a custom intake. The runners on the cannon intake were tapered already from 44mm at the plenum and 37 at the head. All the welding you see was also already done and seems to be done very well. The original builder welded a piece of channel to the intake, and I have been finishing the round "topper " using 4" pipe. the intake also came with 14mm weld on injector bungs which need to be placed. The "nose " was fun to fabricate. In actuality I prefer doing this type of fab work more than any other. Need a TIG to finish this out. I probably will put a 60-70mm TB on this and run it NA . SO MANY PROJECTS- so little time I will post up pics of the head exhaust ports. Not sure anything will come about from removing the liners, but I had a spare head to try. The later MN47 heads had better casting support for the liners, so they retained their shape better and held up longer. If I was staying with a round port head, I wouldn't even mess with the early 47. Much better combustion chamber on the mn47

Don't see where the OP said what grand he was running, so how can we give him a recommendation? i like my 3.90 , but I run the BWT-5 , so my OD is tall. I think I'm at about 75 at 3000rpm

Well decided, after reading lots of stuff about valve size, to upsize the intake valves to the 44mm . Opinions vary, but it seems that I'm leaving an easy 20+ hp on the table by not upsizing. Found some new old stock valves and seats on eBay for cheap and snagged them. The head is at the machinist now , so I might see it before summer is over. Should give me plenty of time to get my block together . Still haven't got the cam ,but that's next.

I impressed with how easy everything on my PHH 40 is to adjust, EXCEPT for the accel pump rods. You about have to take the carbs off to reach the rods. Everything else is a 5 minute job.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113728-ms3x-install/page-2

No ballast. I'm running 6 LS1 coils for ignition. I know just enough to be dangerous about wiring- but it works!!!

Fuel at the supply line only says the pump is working , doesn't mean it's actually getting into your carbs. Anything in the float bowls?

Just FINALLY got my MSD 8920 tach adapter to work on my 71 tach, which we know is current type tach. I run a Megasquirt system which has a tach output just like a MSD ignition box. I tried for the longest time to get it to work with little results. I was trying to pick up the tach -white loop wires further down the harness under the dash. I swore I found them using a ohm meter for continuity , but still no tach. It would actually just barely move the needle. Today I got desperate and pulled the tach and wired the tach adapter directly at the plug-now it works perfect. The black/white and green/white come off the tach loop, but must get sidetracked thru the ignition or fuse box , so I bypassed everything by splicing in right there. Though my wiring for ignition is a bit different , this should work for anyone that is running a separate box for there ignition that has an tach output wire.

being smooth probably gets you past the pilot circuits , so maybe you do have a transition issue . Depends on your definition of smooth. Loading has an effect also. Climbing a small grade will show up a transition issue easier. Accel pumps on these carbs?

Is the transition issue during moderate acceleration or hard ?

Your dealing with one of the hardest aspects of dialing triples-transition! Buckle down for some endurance tuning, and then the weather changes. I fought and still fight the battles with my Mikunis. My recipe is a large pilot jet that might be a bit rich at idle- it's a compromise. But these carbs were made more for hard driving than anything else. These engines like the fuel!

What kind of cam lift are they rated for?

Just head down to the parts store and order a coil for the zx and you should get the right ohm coil. Ordered a coil from Autozone I think, Durajunk, worked great. Ran my plugs at .040

My 9/71 has a current driven tach like yours. The only wire that came from the car was the old hot dizzy wire. I had the original plug in for the matchbox. You don't need any of that condenser crap. I used the coil recommended for the zx dizzy, not sure of ohms.

So what's it doing or not doing? Some guys can't get them to idle, so your ahead of the game already. If you don't have a wide band O2 sensor on there yet, get one. It's not the only answer, but it helps with getting a tune. Search. There's more on this site about Webers than Mikunis, that's for sure.

Now make it run!!

Lapping in the valves seems to have strong opinions amongst builders from what I've read. Some machinist argue that a properly done valve job there is no lapping necessary. almost like it's like old school voodoo and todays modern cutters make lapping obsolete. I guess if anything it's a way to check to see if the valve job was done properly. You could just throw some dykem on there and give it a quick whirl. Sounds like a good plan to start with the milder cam, it might make initial tune easier, although I've never had much issue making the stage 3 run well, and I don't say that in a bragging way. I think even a stage 3 is very drivable with a good idle and very tunable.

Using COP set up, no dizzy . Voltage type tachs seem to be easier since no need for an adapter. I guess I will just wire directly off 5he back of the tach to bypass any possible wire detours. Might consider a newer 280z tach retro fitted .