madkaw

Another successful upload!!! you can see what I trimmed in this photo

Well the uploader finally worked. You can see I had runners 3/16" flat stock from mount to mount and horizontal to go seat frame side to side. That was all welded together to make the mount brackets and of course welded to the seat frame. I need to pull them back out for paint and will take more pics

Actually, I believe the pump nozzle size dictates the length of time the fuel is dumped into the engine . So if you want all the fuel at once you go with a bigger nozzle. You can adjust the linkage for a larger - longer stroke = more fuel Glad to see he is a non-believer in the 1 turn out pilot rule. I tried to accomplish this and it just doesn't work as good as a smaller pilot and more turns - for starting anyway

I will second Sean's advice. I been living with the precision mistake for years. Just went to the junk yard the other day and found perfect 2002 Kia seals. Door closes perfect . I don't understand how precision even put these out and why and the hell MSA sold them. So when Precision showed MSA these seals or MSA tried them , did they just assume the seals needed to be broke in? That's what they left us assuming. Sorry I'm on a rant, but this isn't the first thing I got from MSA - the Z experts, that was junk. i might order a new set of Kia seals , but no precision stuff.

Sorry I haven't kept up with thread very well. I usually am sitting in hotels with time to type, but be home more often-a good thing! I have had the seats mounted in and have been driving around for weeks. I really do like the seats as far as comfort level. Making seat position changes at my finger tips is nice. Reaching back to turn the "knob" on my old seats was awkward. Changing on the fly makes trying new positions of comfort easy. Wiring couldn't be any easier . The connector is at the front of the seat with four connecting tabs. I just wired hot and ground and done. The other two tabs are the heat, but haven't done that yet. I have extra fuse boxes in my car so I was able to draw power thru a separate fuse and grounded things right at the seat mount. With my seat mounting I was able to keep the seat low enough to sit in there with a helmet on. I can't have the seat in the most upright position with a helmet on, but just a slight recline I fit in there well. I had my buddy sit in there and he is 6'4", and he felt comfortable enough( NO HELMET). The seats(especially driver's) probably does NOT go back as far as original, but very close. With seat all the way back and the playing with the recline, my friend felt very comfortable. He actually has more height clearance in my car than his own completely stock 71. He did use a thicker headliner and has new seat cushions that are not broke in. The Wesco seats belts are a great fit, but I thought it funny that the inertia reels are as touchy as my old Nissans. I think I will take the above advice and tether the inboard seat frame to the floor. The threads I've seen on this the guys have not kept the plastic on the sides of the seat, but it can be done with some trimming. I didn't want to look at seat mechanicals when I opened the door. It definitely makes for a more finished look to leave the trims on. Non-power seats is probably the better option for weight and for greater leg room on the driver's side, but this would probably only be a problem for very tall folks. And how many times are you going to use the adjustment on the passenger side. The passenger seat does have a quick release to tilt the back forward. It will make it easy to grad something in the back from the passenger side. A more forward head rest would also be nice. Most newer seats have the head rest canted forward, which I like. I might consider a slight tweak on the headrest posts-later. I will post more pics when I get my camera out. My I phone is not cooperating

Congrats Cliff. Go enjoy some driving!!

The 40 Mikunis usually come with 32 chokes/venturis . They aren't the biggest, but Mikunis also have booster/small venturis .

Count me in as a believer . I've messed with everything else and never got my doors to close easy. Found some Kia seals (( FREEEE)) at the junkyard. I can't hardly believe it. Door lines up perfect , closes easy. Once again I was fooled by MSA . Another product I purchased from them that sucked. I guess there is no QC or R&D at that place. Cost me years of hassle

Looking at your chart, the only number that surprises me is the 160 air jet. With that l28 , you might need that main jet coming in sooner . My numbers( AFR) , are close to yours. Like to see a better start up when warm, but it's not terrible. My Mikunis are going bye- bye in the near future , so someone else can play with tuning. I'm going FI

Found me some Kia seals and ready to try them Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Thinking about going . Might be the only show I make this year. 6 hour drive isn't bad either. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I'd be curious of how the bores looked. Standard bore in 2 rebuilds? Honed several times makes for s sloppy fit . Sloppy fit no good. I would ask for numbers since the mechanic was so emphatic that he checked. what is the piston , bore clearance now? glad you are back rolling

Yes - thanks for the heads up. Even Todd admitted that he was more a race tune guy than a street tune guy. It's hard to find that kind of knowledge anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I believe mine rides that close as far as moustache bar to downlinks. I too have an early 9/71 using a r180. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Damn Cliff -you hit it! Don't mean to clutter up Jim's thread. Bottom line is that once again life gets in the way. Really want to hang out with you guys and the car is running good. Last year was a disaster , but I was hoping to do it this year . Maybe I can make some other events that are close to you guys and fits in the schedule. My sons career has us hopping. Ian will be qualifying for 2 events in swimming. While I'm here- was it determined that you had to have a passport to do this show? I was confused by what I read Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Too much on my plate this year. Spending my vacation watching my son at Olympic trials . Like I say every year- maybe next year:( Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

A bit of gruff sometimes with his posts , but a wealth of knowledge and benefit to the Z community. One person I was hoping to meet at a Z show someday. Awful news guys. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Hey , the CCZC app let me attach a photo and it worked Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I understand what your saying and will take it into consideration Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

So I have my Wesco belts mounted. Is it normal to have a twist in the belt or did they mount the male connector upside down. I can't get this twist out unless the retract mechanism is put on upside down- which can't be done. Well once again I can't upload from my phone. The twist is right by the retractor and the belt DOES lay flat across my chest.

Start with the basics . Make sure nothing is loose like grounds , linkage , loose bolts that can cause a vacuum leak, or anything that can cause a vacuum leak. a loose lead on the dizzy will make you swear it's the carbs. Just today I was driving around -pretty hard on her- and it ran great . Then all the sudden it acted lean and was popping a bit at the carbs. Vacuum plug had blew off of my vacuum log. Car still ran okay, but wanted to die at intersections, and didn't feel quite right. Assumed it was fuel pump, stuck float , ect....

I've never seen washers there either.

Okay, I think I see that now-sorry for the worries

Anyone else think the last lobe looks a little weird? Looks like there is a chip out of it and kind blue on the top of the lobe. Maybe nothing and pictures can be decieving

I've sold stuff in a matter of minutes on Facebook- Datsun parts and needs