madkaw

Not sure what version you have , but it needs to be set up for a VR sensor to read your crank sensor. Both hardware and software needs to be addressed . http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4.pdf/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4.html this might get you started . It's a steep learning curve and I have to review it myself. I set mine up years ago it seems, but going strong. You might have to play with the air gap to. I run a hall sensor which may be a bit different , but I think the board is set up the same . Just noticed this thread , sorry I didn't chime in earlier - trying to restore a 72 in my spare time- lol. Feel free to PM me . I haven't touched my MS for a long time, but it's been dam reliable I guess

Jealous

The booster repair shop I talked to said the Bendix boosters were pretty good about getting parts for. All I did was tell him what part was bad and measured for a replacement . You might be able to do the same.

Is yours repairable ? A lot of boosters the vacuum seal on the rod goes bad and it won't seal. I called around and found a replacement seal for 7.50$ . The rest was just cosmetics Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Sent a PM, never got a response Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Love everything but that spoiler - no pun intended - . It needs color. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Regular pump gas? So you willing to run premium grade?

I am going with Rebello plan just for all these reasons. Better rod angle and Pistons choices. He seems to cover both by offset grinding which gives a journal size for eagle rods. Too much sciencing for me , so I will leave to the experts. I am happy to put all the pieces together which will save me some monies:) Your CR seems a little conservative especially if you go bigger cam- which I would assume you will. I'd bump it up a whole point if that's the case-

Yes I was referring to piston height , but sounds like you have it covered . So these will be custom Pistons or did you find some that worked from another engine to get that pin height?

How are dealing with the 3mm

Yep-just 5 is all I have

Buddy had an old fuel pump and bingo we are back in business . I guess running that pump without the spacer did it in. Also got the plug out Leon with some serious heat. Now to put the exhaust back in and fire it up Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I might have 5 - don't ask me where the 6th one went -ha. Let me check the shed Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I guess a day I can have the garage door open for a while to clear out the stink. Momma doesn't like it when the house stinks up. I did consider that option, but knowing I have to pull out the complete read suspension for bushings and inspect the diff mount , I might just wait.

The problem with all those cool colors is you have to do the whole scheme for them to pop- IMHO. You'll need to black out your trim to set those modern colors off. Again, just my 2 cents. More work but well worth it.

Taking metal out where not needed to give better options - if you are referring to journals . I like doing things myself- and I thought the short block would be a no brainier - but I've changed my mind . Rebello has done all the hard work of science for me, but I can save on my labor to put everything together. Not sure what you are saying in first paragraph

Just keeping the muddy water out during cleaning process . Never had an engine as gunked up as this one. Putty knife, wire brush , gallons of degreaser

From what I've read this is not a half assed adventure to build a stroker. I've decided to follow the Rebello path instead of going my own. He supplies the parts and preps the crankshaft and block and I put it together . He knows the proven combo. Yiu might consider spending a few more bucks and just buy his kit. You spend 1500 for a used diesel crank or spend 2500 and have all the parts to put a short block stroker together- the good sh!t - that's regrinding your L28 crankshaft

Thanks so much for the inside tip! Ordered several sets and they were just as you stated! Thank you Mike for getting the pic uploader fixed I'm about read to restart this thing , but the fuel pump had a different idea. PO had installed the pump without the phenolic spacer and I think it did the diaphragm in. It doesn't seem to suck hard enough to draw the fuel. Still amazed me that the owner drive it here and it made it. Still waiting on new cam spray bar anyway. I was hoping to set floats up with my new float sync tool, but got everything else ready to go- I think. Plenty of other stuff to do . Front suspension is about done and brakes are bled . Put the new wire harness boot on. It reminds me of those nature vids of a snake swallowing something huge. Drained the diff fluid to change it out to only find that I couldn't budge the fill plug. So now I have an empty diff . I am redoing the bushings on the rear suspension so I guess I will just drop the diff out at the same time

So the advantage here with half rubber is soft razor like handling? My client wants a cruiser so I am keeping everything rubber. For me I considered going halfsies- but rubber on the forward side to help soften the ride over bad roads . All in theory I guess, so I won't know until I try. Anymore I am seeking refinement in my ride, so might go back all rubber Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Poly metal bushing is 51mm i ordered 3 sets !!!!

I like that you get all new hardware . Thanks for the measurement so I can compare. The bushings I got from Z car Depot were Nissans

Thanks for the referrals . Still not positive about the center bushing . The rubber bushings didn't come with one, but I know the urethane bushing utilize one. I actually got the orientation of the washers and rubber correct. I guess I should use the bushing from the poly kit with the rubber bushings? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

That's exactly my plan. Talked to Tank inc today about there FI module . It is pretty slick.

Is your hatch inner vinyl panel on? Has it ever been removed? Fumes will suck right threw your latch assembly and come thru that big hole that is covered by that panel . It needs to be sealed with plastic