madkaw

Looks great- but I bet that black on black was hot. Need a lite color interior for black car. Saddle brown is nice with black, but I still think white would be classy and never seen it on a Z

Tough call . Since it's not a numbers matching car( no engine tag), not sure if color will make or break value. It is one of my least favorite colors , but it works well with original trim. Like to do something different and have lots of time to think about it. Really like to do a black Z with white interior - but don't see any to compare . Or even crazier red interior . Just happy the car is so solid . Since i am likely not to keep it , I should go a stock configuration . Wish I could solicit a buyer first and build to their specs !

I don't about that, but would be a great location for the Midwest show. College town has a lot to offer. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I think we started a new Z club . BtownZ Club. BZC Met some friends at C& C

Interesting paperwork that came with the car shows the exchange of owners somewhere CA. BMV paper has statement from owner stating car was in storage from 1988-1996 - and at that time had 58k miles. Presently the odometer reads 59k miles. Looking over the car at every angle I would say the mileage probably could be correct , though no way to verify. I do have some names to try and seek out info. Accept for damage causing rust on the floor boards , this car is really clean. Only other damage I found besides the floor is the radiator core support was dinged somewhere in its life and I think I can dolly that straight.

Isn't that rewarding when it just WORKS!

Question - have you test fitted that damper yet? My buddy got one and it wouldn't fit on the crankshaft snout. ID was too small

Oops- sorry about the bad link. Its been discussed everywhere and many aftermarket systems use an adjustable J pipe to tune OUT drone issues. Maybe more of a situation for performance exhaust and engines then stock. Overly complicated ? Yes maybe for a stock car. If I can fix a drone noise precisely with welding in a pipe instead of another muffler , I think that a simple solution . A secondary pipe 24" long is much easier to package than another muffler . It can be bent to put anywhere and it doesn't get hot like a regular muffler does. So in MY situation it might be a simpler fix actually. Making it adjustable is the key and I just figured how I will. Two different size pipes to slide over each other and length can be adjusted . Band clamps are used to hold adjustments for test driving or permanent hold.

Just made my reservation to go up- now hope Mother Nature cooperates

Here's an interesting article with all the math- it makes my head hurt- but you can dial in for your engine. my exhaust system can't be compared to anyone else's , but did the sake of discussion we can say 6-2 header with 2" pipes all the way back to two oval turbo mufflers. Let's say drone is between 2000-2500 https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/how-build-exhaust-resonator-tube-eliminate-drone-489463/

Figured I'd update this thread( I have too many), but still very happy with my MS conversion. I actually think my tune has brought me close to the power levels I was running on triples . I am happy to have this kind of performance with just an N42 intake and my little amount of experience with MS. It's a steep learning curve , but there are folks that can help in this site and others to get someone going. Programmable ECU is a viable way of getting serious performance without switching to carbs ( for you guys with EFI Z's ) Can't thank Chickenman enough for his support . I owe him a couple more dinners - at least - but I will take care of him!

I have glass packs ( resonators ) ahead of oval mufflers . The glasspacks help a little but as they break in they are less effective. Yes Mark- that's what I'm taking about. Richard - I'm running twin 2" pipes. Packaging is the issue . There's no room for ovals where the glasspacks are in the tunnel. There would be room for a T'd pipe. Most projects I've seen the pipes are very close to the mufflers so I don't know if they would be as effective further upstream . If not I might be able to package things differently

What I read on some other sites was that the resonator pipe ideal length was 24-26" per pipe, so 1 H pipe would need to be 5 ft . I do have a crossover in there now, but that was meant for scavenging , and I would gladly do away with it for a bit more civility at lower rpms

I have twice the issue with twice pipes . I run oval in the back with round resonators up front , combined with headers . I thought I could ditch the round resonators for something like this type resonator .

Anyone try this ? With all my mufflers and resonators I am still dissatisfied with my drone at low rpm loads. I'm about done trying any other mufflers so I'm going to try this type resonator . It might be a matter of where it will fit as far as location . I might actually be able to get rid of my muffler - resonators and loose some weight going this style . The pic is just a general idea but I've read that just a length of pipe will do , sounds like around 24" piece does the trick. It can be basically attached at a 90 degree angle to the pipe, but after that it can be bent to fit anywhere .

I still say a heavy deadblow or actual sledge hammer and standing on the strut towers swinging it like a lumber jack will be needed to SHOCK it loose. You need weight and shock to bust it loose . You need to hit it from every available angle to find that weak spot. I've had to beat these heads before WITHOUT any stud broken . Just take all appropriate cautions . soon there will be victory !!!

More pics . I think I can save the floors and probably 98% of the original metal. Might be different when I get all the floor far off of there , but so far looks good. The chassis is really in amazing condition for a 70 or any early Z. Almost all the interior panels are good enough and any tears in the vinyl were small. This will be a very nice car for someone. I plan on doing a major refresh and selling .

I know you said you bought a sledge hammer , but I would have recommended a 3-5 lb dead blow hammer( not a rubber mallet) . Then you could hit the head directly anywhere , for the most part , from any direction without holding wood too. A miss with the sledge will break aluminum, but unlikely with a dead blow. It sounds like your just hitting it from one side also. You need to hit it from every angle to break things loose.

I'm excited for you Jeff - feel the power !!

No money

Treasure hunt day ! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Green underneath the primer Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Correct Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

My wife is cool- I have 3 rollers now so she is getting numb to this. She also knows I've never lost $ on these deals . ESPECIALLY after acquiring the diesel Maxima Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile