madkaw

After throwing the Z together last year for Zcon and driving it 3000 miles last summer, I realized i had things to improve on. 1)leaking rear mail 2) raw fuel smell 3)exhaust fumes 4) Install wideband sensor 5) fix rear tire rubbing 6) repaint exhaust 7)figure out whining noise rear end as you can see I had pretty big list to do over the winter. Well the good news is I drove the car today and I couldn't be happier. 1) jury is still out on the leak-not enough miles 2)raw fuel smell was a pinhole in my filler neck to the tank-welded it and fixd the problem 3)Found some pinholes in my exhaust and welded them-less exhaust in the car!!! 4)Intsalled wideband and now I truly know that my carbs are in tune!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 5) My 245/45/17's always rubbed on the rear-I did an old fashioned camber change(slotted strut holes by 1/4") no more rubbing-so far 6) Since I had the exhaust, I painted with heat paint 7)As far as the rear end, I swapped out diffs and the noise went away, but I found some halfshaft nuts -NOT tight, but not real loose either. So was the noise coming from my LSD, or the halfshafts-that will be the question. What a proud feeling to cruise in the car today knowing I was able to remmedy all these things over the winter-I am STOKED:beer:

http://www.amazon.com/CC3K-Carburetor-Parts-Cleaner-Basket/dp/B000ABGA4E The best way to get them clean, but DON'T let them soak to long-follow the instructions. If you soak them too long- any cladding on the linkage will disolve. Making them pretty is lots of elbow grease and Mother's polish-possible sandpaper---just how nice you want to make them..

Steve, it should fit fine. I believe they were all about the same on the s-30's. For sure the carby versions are the same.

Yes I would love to here why it would be a waste of time? I will say from the research I've done that it would be bi%ch to tune. getting a good vacuum signal to dial in a ECU is a bit tricky with TBI's.

Jerry, I would also would be interested in finding an EXPERIENCED diff shop to take my r200LSD. Please post the shops you recommend!!

My thoughts too! A fuel pressure guage will tell all. Another thing that suprised me with my ZXT was the amount of heat around the diff on these cars after being on the highway. I found the diff to be HOT to the touch-like you can't hold your hand on it. Now consider a rubber fuel line close to that heat, or even touching the diff like mine was, it gets really soft and could collapse.

Sarah, I had a similiar issue happen with my daughter's 280ZXT. It was really random, but the car would studder, then die pretty quickly. I went thru all the same steps as you and had a squeaky clean gas tank. I had also installed, what looked like a new fuel sending unit in the tank from another Z. I replaced my stock pump with a performance pump, but still acted up. Ome thing that did change with the other pump was the noise. I could hear the pump cavitating, or what i thought was a cavitating noise-so I broke down and bought a fuel pressure guage. WOW-I was showing 100psi on the return line. So I dived back in to find the blockage. It turned out that my brand new looking fuel sending unit had something clogged on the return side. I'd said something is causing your pump to cavitate. I believe there is a screen on the end of those pumps too.

Here's my 2 cents! You need to proper impedence coil for your pertronix. So as said earlier, certains coils require the ballast resistor and some don't. When I did mine I opted for a coil that eliminated the ballast. I also had a rev limiting problem, but it turned out to be the carb floats improperly adjusted. Your mechanical advance unit will also cause the same issue. Pull your dizzy out and get to the mechanical advance and make sure it moves freely and the springs are working.

ChaCha-have you seen this thread? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?25528-my-version-of-twice-pipes&highlight=duals

My 17" clear wildwoods!

Look around, they are out there. Unfortunetly, your late e-88 head isn't one of the better heads ------without major work. I think that is amplified by the fact of that big flowing rebello bottom end. Hybridz has a great thread on just Z heads. I did my own polish and port and unshrouding which would help your e-88 greatly

110 octane cures all:cool: You just might always have detonation issues with that later e-88 head. With a WIDE open chamber design, it might not like timing. I feel fortunate that my early e-88(semi-closed) head has faired so well with timing advanced. Have fun tearing it up(the track)!

Steve, did you try anymore ignition advance?

I guess I don't understand a vacuum advance that doesn't purely run on vacuum. At cruise is where you want it

I got some raised eyebrows when folks heard what I paid for my Wildwood set-up-all 4 corners, but I always said that if i was going to pay crazy money on anything it would brakes. Yes the Z brakes are adequate, but I plan on having fun with this car and I don't have to worry about a 40 year old brake system. Plus once you drive a car with Wildwoods all the way around, you'll think your driving a new car and have the confidence of those awesome working brakes. Glad your okay!

Steve, curious of what you are using for a fuel pump? The reason I ask is that I have a suspection that my fuel pump causes a lean condition at top end. Plus the fact that your running more cfm with that motor than with a stock 73 since you have a rebello bottom end. Again, I can't prove this because I haven't run yet with my wideband. As far as timing, around 2500 is where I had my detonation issues---because all your vacuum advance is in at a slow to moderate acceleration, and also all of your mechanical is chiming in at 2500 also, so you're looking at 40+ degrees for me. So if your set-up won't allow past mechanical, I'm suprised the motor won't support more timing.

For some, the vacuum advance pulls in too much advance for their modified motor. If you have a 81 dizzy on your 71 , it will pull in an additional 17 degrees on top of your mechanical which might total out around 40+ to 50 degrees(no laziness here, it just doesn't work for my engine). I agree that would be ideal to keep it for mpg and cleaner running engine. As far as the mixture nut effecting what. It really does only effect 0-1/4 throttle opening, but that would effect cruise speeds, so I guess it is how you want to look at it.

That's probably close to my engine as far as compression. I have a stage 2 cam with no overlap and had no problem running 20 initial with premium gas. I am running a 81 dizzy which has 17 degrees mechanical. I will say that I have no proof that my timing is best for power, but I get decent MPG. I also have installed a wideband, but have yet to use it---can't wait to play like you.

I would see how much more advance you can get also. I am running 20 degrees initial and about 36 all in. I'm not sure what dizzy your using, but I would be suprised that your mechanical advance is actually adding in 20 degrees. Either way, I would think --since you are NOT using vacuum advance, then you need to bump up your timing and see what happens then. If you already tried this and your are pinging, then scratch that idea. I'm not sure what compression ratio your combo yeilded.

Just curious of what you have your ignition timing set at with no advance hooked up.

By the way-this is car is for sale now!

17X8.5 +4 wheels with 245/45 tires are not plug and play---ask me how I know:rolleyes:---but they look great! There is a thread somewhere on here or on hybridz that describes what I went thru. Still have rubbing on the rear inside the wheel well that i hope a slight camber change will fix, but flares would be the best solution.

You can call black dragon and ask a technical question about a product and they "will get back to you" with no technical help. You can try and find the original nissan part# and order from the dealer; or ask MSA if their product is a original Nissan part. The biggest disappointment for me with MSA is not the price--but the lack of R&D of the items they sell. example; higher wattage dash bulbs. Not a plug and play, even though they are sold that way. i had to modify the bulds to work, as well as other members on this site. Did anyone at MSA actually due any real world testing with these bulbs. another example; Headers. Just look thru the archives to see all the fitment problems with the headers sold at MSA and also the exhaust systems. MSA are suppose to be the experts on our cars---thus the higher prices,, but I don't find that to be true. So both pros and cons---like any other business I guess

Oh, and the biggest reason for duals is they are WAY-COOL

I ran duals all the way back from a MSA 6-2 header and the collectors were two inches. I wouldn't run anything bigger than that. Two 2" pipes would be about equal to 3" single, which has been run by many with success. The twin 2" pipes run well on my slightly modified motor and sound dreamy.