madkaw

Try this http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62691-l6-heads-pics-and-descriptions/

Of course I'm joking! Love the scheme. What make are the mirrors? One my cell so no pics. At least you did a Nissan red- mine is Mazda true red ( don't tell anyone though) Hey I can add a pic!

You would be corrected harshly by Todd at Wolf Creek for calling the pilot screws idle mixture screws. Idle mixture is incorrect and misleading because it adjusts way beyond idle. I also think the Mikuni manual recommendation for a single turn out is more for a stock engine application. I never could get a proper mixture using just one turn to cover all the areas the pilot jet covers. I think I was about 2 turns. It sounds like you got it close- congratulations

I would think the later e88 would be similar to the n42 which was put on the dish piston engines. It might be the least amount of work to get you going since it has the larger exhaust. Maybe just freshen it up and go. You could sell off either 31 or 97 to pay for some it.

That's ugly- why would you paint it red and then black out the trim. It just don't make sense.

That's what I thought and I ASSUMED that the OP broke the engine open

Jasper engines are based in Jasper I indiana- just down the road from me. They rebuilt all kinds of engines but don't know why they did that combo.

I think you have your quench definition backwards. The 31 head will have more quench thus higher CR. Popping on any early head (31 or 88) without having it rebuilt would be risky. Might as well have the larger valve on the exhaust done on the 31. The 79 would be terrible compression like said.

I ran that cam on both SU'S and triples and it idled fine.

The flapper wheel was a good idea and probably was very manageable to handle.The larger diameter of the wheel helps with making sure you don't gouge.

I guess I don't understand what you mean by "my total timing sucks". Earlier in the thread you wanted better initial timing , but you aren't happy with your total timing, but your car runs fine at 7000rpm? Didn't answer about your vacuum advance. I still think .080 is too much gap which does effect timing.

What grit was the flapper wheel? And you used a air driven die grinder or drill?

Best I can tell that dizzy has 24 degrees of mechanical advance. So lot's of initial timing is out. I would think it would handle 8 degrees initial without pinging-that's 32 all in. Vacuum advance is disconnected? If so, do you know it's locked out? The ZX dizzy was made for a ZX engine-which you have:) Maybe you need to give it a shot.

So Cliff, did you do the notching all with that flapper wheel?

Yes you should update your signature so we know the engine stuff. I would fix the gap first and then go from there. Retarding the timing to keep it on the scale is a great idea.

What exact dizzy model do you have?

.080 ? Shouldn't it be half that? Advance timing lights are pretty cheap anymore and it takes out the guess .

You don't want those heavy rods, I'll take them off your hands and give you another light set;) Post up pics and we can go from there. Staying on the conservative side is probably best. If you went overbore then you shouldn't need much.

So your dizzy gives you 28 degrees of mechanical advance? I didn't any dizzy that gave that much. How have you verified total advance numbers?

So the rods are different? so are the other pistons from a later L24? Could be 9mm rods from a 73 240?

I'm getting ready to test this subject. I've swapped out the crank but I am using all the same rods and pistons. I don't plan on having the complete rotating assembly balanced.

Blue, were you able to source the low compression pistons with the right pin height?

Your intuition might be right if you aren't turn high revs. I would think a machine shop would Reem that.

That's a lot cheaper and easier to fix for sure!!

Best ignition you can provide. Play with timing curves. Maybe advance the cam #3 hole see what it does. Tune , tune. 411 gears! Turbo!