madkaw

How do you remove the shaft and still drive the oil pump?

Pic of your dizzy and the "small box" you described. Sure sounds like ignition .

You might want to read my megasquirt install thread on Hybridz. I think I also entered info here. I used the flywheel as my trigger and a 20$ Hall sensor. With the engine apart it's a good time to do this.

Those LS1 coils will weld steal! Great plan to use Megajolt. Looking like great project, should run strong.

So my engines apart and I'm wanting to check the carbs over before putting them back on. Since I was having running issues with my engine I really wanted to eliminate the Mikunis as the source. Everything checked out on the carbs, but I was suspicious of throttle plate damage from slamming the throttle(maybe a few times:o) Looking down the barrels with back lite I tried to eyeball the light making it through and see if the openings were the same. Checked for looseness in the throttle plates also. Some looked suspect, but still not sure how to measure the opening. Then I had an idea(careful now), what I checked the air balance with the carb off the engine. If I had a consistant suction I could use my unisync to measure any differences. So I dragged out the Oreck( my wife got excited for a second), and I hooked it up to each carb and measured. If this is an accurate test, then my carbs were pretty spot on. I plan on stteing all my idle screws using the vacuum. At least I will know they are all set equal. never did like using the feeler gauge

MN47-39cc p79-53cc 42 intake but 35mm exhaust Flow numbers are out there in the archives somewhere. Stuff I've read that it's plenty good to 8000rpm. The ports are Dshaped, but not sure how much smaller, but I don't think it's alot. I believe i measured 35mm across the inlet. Don't think there is any angle difference.

Putting a thread together now on this combo. We can discuss such options. As far as the head gasket; the L24 gaskets are oval shaped and should allow for room for notching.

I bought a f54/P79 zx motor about a year ago. Paid 200$ for a motor that came from a running car that had 110K miles-DEAL! I was just wanting a L28 block with flat tops so I could put my e88 head on when I was done messing with my L24. The bores looked great and it all cleaned up well. Had the block tanked and a ball hone on the cylinders. They magnafluxed the block and measured out the bores for me to check specs, all was good. 120$ At this time, I wasn't planning on using the P79, so I sold it off for 150$ Since my L24 project is going so badly, I thought I might try and work the L28 at the same time and use whatever engine is done first. But was headless. Always have been intrigued with the maxima head. It might be the best value out there for performance. They aren't as scarce as I thought and they are pretty cheap. It bolts on and has a more modern chamber like the P79, just a LOT smaller. I have read the archives and several builders swear by them. Maybe myth busting or adventure seeking, but a street gas 11:1 l28 would be a hoot. I have an advantage to the average guy that bolts it on and crosses his finge; I have MEGASQUIRT to fight detonation and lean spots and timing curves and.... I found an "A" rated head for 150$ shipped to my door. It was very clean and I bet I could have bolted it right on and it would have worked. But it is getting freshened up to get ready for a Rebello cam.

Here's my mn47 that's going on my L28

Zed, Not sure that Nissan would be the only ones that actually relieved bores on factory engines -at least from my research. You could be careful and notch the bore without dismantling the engine. Shaving cream and a drum sander would make quick work of it. A 2" drum sander with 80 grit and a couple of hours of prep and done.

That head is from a Datsun 810 or something? Bolt on, but you would need the exhaust manifold because its round port. Also need to relieve the bore for the larger exhaust valve to clear if you are at stock bore. In the end, you should have a better running motor than the stock. Should put you 10+ to 1 and detonation resistant. Getting ready to put that head on a L28.

Well blue just don't cut it in a red engine compartment. Black is kind of dumb, especially when you start trying to find oil leaks. Red off the shelf actually matched really well to my car, so there it is. The side seals; Guy, appreciate the tip, but the rear main is already bolted down and I don't own a puller, so it's a pain to pull back out. I've read numerous posts regarding these damn things and I have read no rtv, yes rtv, cap in place, cap not in place. I don't own the how to rebuild book, but i'm ordering it tonight! I have time to sort this out because my head is on B.O. I guess. Blue; I had SS valves in there before and I guess the machinist ordered SI valves to replace my old ones.

HUH?

Getting some stuff done, but need some verificaion. Ready to put rear main side seals and I need to be sure so this doesn't haunt me. See pics. "lips" to the block side, and stake to the crank side. I also noticed that the rubber seal has a slight taper to it. It definetly when in one way easier then the other. Not easy to see, but easy to feel. Still no head. The machinist found a flaw in the SI SS valves. Defect in the material. So looking for maybe a better 1.73 intakes.

I also was running 54 gears and a T5

My first long haul with my fresh L24 to Zcon 2010 I got over 30. SU's running very lean running max or 37 total advance. Amazing was that fuel gauge was dead nuts accurate using my CJ 5 gas tank - This was with a 480 lift cam and headers and electronic ign.

Those diesels are gone already

Curious that you are using he shorter rod-130mm?

Please-no derails, it's a lot of paperwork,

Didn't they start with transitorized ignition in 73? I thought I used to have an old brain box from a 73

I should have said, Cliff inspired me to do my reliefs better than I did on my old block.! It would be hard to to calculate the reliefs into the CR equation, but it does probably have an effect on it.

I used what MSA was advertising years ago. They are too long at the contact point and sometimes don't ground correctly. I had to file down the solder on the contact to get them to work. And oddly enough the speedo ones never did want to ground right so I put the OE ones in

The reason it didn't start with the tach out is because the coil wire runs thru the tach to give you a reading. It's a current driven tach, so all your ignition current goes thru it. when you pulled your tach you disconnected your ignition.

Progress is such a sweet thing. It was time to do the bore notching. After watching how Cliff's notches came out I knew I could do better on mine. My Z buddy just happen to have a small sanding drum set. The biggest drum was 2" and he also had a 1" . It was almost too easy with 80 grit paper on the drums. Just used my cordless drill and it was very manageable and very quick. I didn't even burn up one drum doing all 12 notches. I used the 2" drum for the intake notch and the 1" for the exhaust.As I advised cliff I went conservative-especially since I'm already 30 over on the bore. Anyway, I very happy the way they turned out. I scrubbed the engine down twice after kicking up sand and started in with assembly. It's was quite a change shoving pistons down in a hole with only .00015 clearance as opposed to .0045. Even with this tight clearance on the piston/cylinder- my rings(Total Seal) still gapped at the upper limits. It's obvious that though Total Seal sells these as file fit, they didn't leave any extra on there. The other surprise to me was when I measure deck height on the pistons. Even with taking .005 off the top off the block the pistons were only .004 above deck. I think these pistons were Sealed Power units. I was expecting to find them around .020 above deck. So the Sealed Power pistons were oversized on the skirt and not as tall . Time to move on. Dropped the crank in there with new Clevite bearings and mounted up all the pistons in the block. It doesn't seem like a whole lot, but for me it was big. Less parts laying around to get lost and dirty. Sent a pic to my machinist to tell him I am waiting on him now-I need my head-NOW. I have also been be working an l28 at the same time. It won't take much to get done. Should be a good cleaning, fresh rings and bearings and a fresh cylinder head.

I think I got lucky but this is a really nice core with a good cam. It was rated A , but never sure on these deals. If I needed a quick fix this head probably could have been made usable with very little money. This will be going on my L28 block that I am rebuilding now. Should be a screamer if I can tune her right