madkaw

seems kinda weird anyway. Well that sums it up for me too

If I knew I would make the show I would offer up a meet at my car or maybe someone else could use their car. I thought at one of the shows we had name tags and you would/could put your inner Web name on there too.

Well haven't much got further. Did have a very interesting talk/argument /verbal fight with my machinist. There shouldn't be this much drama in an engine build. Without detail I will say that I guestioned his work and business skills and his lack of effort to learn about this motor. He admitted to not swiping the valve side of the rocker during initial build of my motor. I am 99% sure he overbored my engine and probably didn't get the guide seals right either. Lesson learned, if going with a performance build , find a knowledgeable builder. Also, read up and ask questions .moving on.... Went with genuine Nissan valves for the intakes. These are getting harder to come by and Courtesy went back order. Valves are not here yet , so making Zcon is looking dim. I did order the rebuild book and it is a good reference. I think I will redo my side seals . I guess it's time to make a puller . I also found it interesting what the book said about polishing the crank in the area of the rear main seal- don't do it or it will leak. Had my crank polished , but don't know if the rear was polished or not. Now I will worry about it now. Never read about anyone else dealing with that issue. Just not a good year for the Z

Cliff, I use something like that , but sparingly. All the work on this head will probably be accomplished with sand paper type bits. Those carbide bits can grab a lot material if your not careful. I did use something like that for cleaning up my mikuni intake-bad castings. The "teeth" were clogged up with aluminum which was actually a good thing, so it wouldn' t gouge the project. I'm figuring I'm down to 38cc right now, but there is room to open up around the valve curtain. that should gain me back some. might wind up grinding reliefs in the pistons which will get me a little more. I am very happy the way it cleaned up. The only signs of rust are barely seen on the pivot bushings. I will be getting a burret set-up shortly. i've noticed if you stay away from the auto-performance vendors, you can order a pretty cheap set-up from a science lab web site. You can get a 50cc burret, stand, clamp for 50$ and go find a piece of plexiglass

Finally got my MN47 back from the machine shop. Didn't expect the guy to tell me he took .012 off-eek! The CR is going up as we speak. Looks like I need to get that burret on order and start taking measurements. I want to know exactly where I'm at on this. The really good news was that everything cleaned up nicely. The one exhaust valve that was bent didn't ruin the guide! Now rusty looks better than warpy. I had the warped head tanked so I could play around with a clean head. I still plan on trying to straightening it.

Oughta be a runner!

I feel your pain of pulling a head off of a good motor:) Hopefully your issue is simple. As far as HGs, it's hard to take anyone's word except for actual engine builders. Too many variables put there. Nice build and good documentation.

100$ sure! I'm with Charles though, tear it down and check everything

Thanks Charles! That's what I have read about exhaust options, so I will stick with my square port header.

I couldn't put it together with those pistons - especially when flat tops are pretty cheap. If that motor didn't detonate before, it probably will from all the hot spots created by those pits.

It's a great source, but I found out that it's not updated sometimes. I was told by several yards that they didn't have such a head when it was still on the Web site. I wish I had some extra bucks to by some more! Love to find a diesel crank but I guess you have them all-

The only thing most salvage yards will guarantee is that the head will pass a pressure test(no cracks). The guy even told me about the stuck valve, but he didn't say it sat outside forever. When I called him on it he said that he has bead blasted heads like that before and they were just fine. That is when I started the name calling. In the end, all the drama aside, the head is a good core. I would never buy from A1A parts in Florida again, that's for sure. They will also get you to sign a discalimer that you can't dispute the purchase thru your CC company; only thru them. I have learned a lesson. Would I buy again -sight unseen-, probably have to if I want to find some of these parts. Most guys I talked to were pretty proffessional and were willing to ship at reasonable rates. 35-50$ shipping is not much when you consider the part might be a 1000 miles away.

So I finished tweeking the carbs with the Oreck and quick put it back in the closet before she got ideas! I would suggest a fresh bag in the cleaner before attempting this. I noticed that some of my readings were fluxuating as if the suction was varying. I pulled the bag to see it was very, very full. So I got a new bag and proceeded. I did find one carb that seem to have a tweeked throttle shaft. A few yanks on the opposite throttle plate nuts and she dialed in. I moved on to slimming down my vacuum log. ive been trying to come up with a way to eliminate the hoses running over my carbs. I think this set-up will work and look much better.

Now that you guys have trampled all over this wonderfully informative thread can we get back to engine building;0 Here's pics of the ole rusty head. Put my valve spring compressor to work right away in dismantling the head. I had to smack some of the valves pretty hard with a mallet to get the valves loose enough for the compressor to work. The one belt valve was bent right at the head and I was able to slip another valve in the guide easy. The head is at the shop getting a basic valve job using most of the parts from the warped head.

Don't ever trust my hearing- Good investigative work!

Doesn't sound that bad. It's hard to tell on videos because it usually modifies the sound. Sometimes the engine sounds different during starting when the timing is way off.

The fuel requirements for FI motor will cause a lot of work and money. It's more than if you were just going L28et from a L28e motor. Than you have the wiring . How much work do you want? If your power hungry you better go L28et

I know that IF I don't bring my car, I won't be the only one in that situation, but not wanting to go without my car.

Leon, I know you have read pages of archives regarding syncing carbs. You know that is one of Tony's pet peeves about making sure that you can seperate the carbs for balancing, but there has been many arguements the other way. If you think about it, does anyone disconnect the balance tubes on SU's when they balance? Does your engine operate with all the time with the balance tube disconnected? No. I would try and mechanically set the butterflies equal before doing anything and I would try and sync seperately, but in the end the carbs will be all tied to each other.

I'm not sure I buy into the balance tube= lazy idle. If you remember my set up ,I had/have a separate vacuum log with all the associated hoses and my throttle response and idle was like a motorcycle. Never had an issue with a 'lazy idle', but have a Mikuni intake tapped at all the runners.

I would try a different starter first or just try the reduction starter. Definitely check all connections .

Beautiful set up Mike!

I think it will be hard to tell by hand. My last ZX motor only showed 90lbs by hand on a compression test. Once apart I realized it was in very good shape. Leak down test for sure. True motor head has an engine in the living room:)

Okay- took cam and towers off the warped head and popped them on the rusty head for a fast dirty test and the cam spun fine. So took everything back off the head and sent it to the machine shop for a pressure test. If that passes then it's time to play valve swap. I took everything off the warped head because it all looked clean and hopefully serviceable. So the only parts that will be used off of the rusty head is the core itself and the Rocker base nuts. I think they will be fine with a little cleaning. Got a new valve spring compressor and it works pretty dam well. Had the valves out in just a few minutes.

And I thought only P79 and p90 got that close of a shave!