madkaw

I'm going to melt.

FIRE IN THE HOLE!!!

Well it's like watching one of those car shows where all kinds of things happen at the last minute. So I lost a day and half because Isky put the wrong numbers down on their cam. Things roll pretty good installing the motor, but not sure I will install a motor again with all the carbs on. It throws the balance off longitudinally , so it makes it tough lining things up. The trans was a bit tough lining up, but the old man squeezed her on. So pour coolant in the radiator and watch it drip out of my thermostat housing. turns out the housing is cracked Not a big deal EXCEPT, Mikuni shorty intake means it all has to come off to get the bolts on the housing -SH!T. So that added an extra 3 hours of work. Went thru diagnostics last night and the fuel pump didn't work. Tested wires and ended up at my inertia switch-just needed to be reset! Fired off the coils and they tested okay. So I'm ready to start it this morning and the battery is dead. Some dumb arse left the ignition on all night.

Drilled only. Both don't work good.

Should get her fired off today

So the guy at Autozone says " how many thermostat gaskets did you say you needed?"

I think a lot of worry on shimming should be confined to folks that shave the top of the head. Shaving off the bottom will loosen the timing chain and effect timing number slightly, and shimming can bring that back. Now if the top side is shaved to make all things parallel, then you directly change the geometry of the cam to the rockers. Whatever you do , you need to compensate . I did not shim though I have taken around .030 off. BUT, I have taken the time to degree my cam so to compensate for the height difference.

Cliff, If I took the train I would never get there - ....moving right along like a freight train on the build

My Schneider cam -274F grind was a bit smaller and it pulled hard from 1500rpm. I could putt around town all day at 1500rpm in 4th gear. I do have 390 gears. Guy, seeing these numbers makes me wonder where you are at with your motors. I'm shaved .030 and I advanced this cam to the third hole. If you did the normal .080 on the P79 then your timing is probably way late. Leaving a lot of torque unused? Better use that dial indicator

and........the numbers are in. Cam card says Intake exhaust open 2.5BTDC open 40.5 BBDC Closed 40.5 BDC closed 2.5 ATDC My numbers on #3 hole sprocket Intake exhaust 3 BTDC 43 BBDC 39 BBDC 2 ATDC Steve,

Richard, good call on the box cover. It actually fits the bolt spacing perfectly-no drilling. Yes it's not very thick, but there isn't much pressure being exerted pushing a dial indicator rod in. Hell, the engine stand bounces around more-. I looked at my Schneider card from my 480 lift cam and I realize now how far off the isky numbers are and how close mine probably are to being right. At least I can put this puppy together if Ron ever calls back

waiting on Ron to call me back, but he said the cam card is WRONG!

Waiting to call Isky

And no specific Datsun instructions, but I do have a cam card.

I have read that Racer Brown article MANY times. It is a great piece of work. I will take a pic of my set up, and it worked for my Schneider cam. I have an extension so the dial indicator is in line with valve . It sits right on the retainer. Waiting for Ron to get in west coast time and I will be calling him. Doubt it's been machined wrong and more likely I have screwed up. Like I said, I've done this before, but just enough to be dangerous.

Well my luck continues. Tried to degree my cam today and the numbers are pretty far off. I guess I will have to call Isky in the morning. I've double checked everything . The marks all line up but my opening and closing times are off a good 30 degrees. Probably find out I'm doing something wrong, but I'm doing this just like I did my Schneider cam and the numbers came in. Not looking good for Zcon.

Getting er done ! Jealous of your quick progress, but not jealous of your trans swap. That's hard on the body.

I hope mine goes that smoothly- at least the good parts anyway. Congrats

I hear you about the little stuff. Probably put everything I took off back on. And speaking about put everything back on, the engine is going back together now. Picked up the head yesterday at 9am and had the head on by lunch time. Everything went pretty smoothly until I started the process of degreeing the cam. My piston stop actually snapped off in the bore. I was able to get the pieces out, but I had to make another one. I had found TDC with the head off, but I think my degree wheel moved so I had to verify TDC again- PITA. THEN I HAD TO GO TO WORK:(

It reminds me of when I rebuilt my 1980 Kawasaki 1000 motor. No gaskets between the casing halves. When I asked Schnitz Racing about it, the mechanic said he uses nail polish sometimes. I just kind of looked dumb at him. He said it's Japanese precision, doesn't need gaskets. They might put a thin layer of that stuff you have Cliff, and that's it.

I'm not going to sweat it. No gasket. I definetly don't want to use this half gasket in the kit. Don't know if it was meant to be that way or defective. Thanks for the input guys

Don't ever remember using a gasket there before. Last rebuild I didn't use one. The ' how to rebuild' book says don't forget it! It is 2 machined surfaces so it probably seals okay without it. This gasket I have seems incomplete, so I don't want to use it. Dilemma!

This is the only gasket in my 2 kits. Look right?

Some great threads on Hybridz about zg flare installations

Just got off the phone with the machinist and I need to correct the last post. The new Nissan valves went in fine and the wipe patterns look good on both ends of the rocker. I guess i didn't notice but it was the exhaust side we were messing with when I was in there. After I left he did the intakes and they all came out great. There are 2 exhaust valves where the lash pad(valve side) are not wiping all the way across the pad at 100%. Since we swapped as many parts as possible( rocker, lash pad, retainer), the problem must lie in the guide itself being slightly off, or maybe a cam lobe issue. I mentioned that it was curious that all the intakes came out great considering that he had to enlarge or ream the guides to make that work, since the Nissan valves have a larger stem diameter than the SS valves that were in there previously . So did this secondary ream take out any minor deflection that was in the guide? I think yes. I told him to put it together and let's roll, I'm running out of time to put this engine together.