madkaw

Datsun reliability wins!! Not sure how a 944 that does 9mph more on the straight away is even in the same class. Way to hang in there Greg . Nice way to retire from EP!

Cliff, I think you are being a little paranoid, but I understand. I think cold specs will be fine for break in. After your initial set up and run check them hot . My conversations with Schneider I was told that the 20 minute break in at 2000 didn't apply to our valve train- just saying what I was told. Did I do 20 minutes, not exactly . Definetly not 20 at 2000. Didn't do it on either of my Schneider or Isky cam. The issues I experienced were with improper valve guide install, but the wear on cam lobes looked perfect. Just think about how many folks have everything dialed in so well on a total rebuild that it just fires up and runs for 20 minutes no issues to deal with. It seems to me that a lot of cam issues are from not making sure the system is primed well enough for instant oil on the cam with start up. Prime the motor with a drill and watch the oil bleed out on to your can before you ever start the motor. A slight valve clearance issue will not hurt anything.

I guess when I considered an answer I should have remembered that I was using light springs, so wear wasn't a concern. My machinist just used permanent marker with light springs. Probably with full on springs a little lube wod be good.

Pretty^

I don't see why you need to grease if it is spotlessly clean!

Look at my MS3X install thread on Hybridz or the thread I did hear .

So did you loosen the crank pulley bolt back up and tried to turn the pulley to see if turns(key gone). I think I would want to see ALL of the bolt too, to make sure it didn't break in half. That Murphy guy sure has a sense of humor-

Wow, what a challenge. Sucked that it made your race day short-crapcan race? Loose damper could lead to sheared keys .

So have you verified that at TDC #1- compression stroke- that the dizzy shaft is at the proper 11:25 position and that the rotor is lined up with 1 plug? Please understand with any posts regarding shiny links is irrelevant UNLESS you have the timing cover off to see the crank sprocket. What ignition issues were you having prior to this?

Looks like about the same specs as the Carter. Is it quiet? I also went with the carter because it is in line and will package well for my tight space.

Dam, I cannot see this file

Well it wasn't terrible, but the pressure wasn't stable. At WOT pressure dropped to 2psi. Pressure was also shaky in transitional areas. Upon looking at the numbers on my fuel pump I realized that I had installed (and recommended-sorry) a pump that probably is slightly to small in volume. The rx7 pump was made for a 1.2 liter rotary and requires only 15 gph(2-4psi) Maybe sufficient for a stock Z with SU'S , but not enough for my engine. I have ordered a Carter p60504 to replace my pump. It's rated 4psi at 30 gph. Reading Racetep ' s page they run Carters with 4psi and no regulator on all there set ups. Waiting on the pump and leaving the pressure gauge in place to see the changes. I will say that after adjusting my Holley regulator up right to 4 psi the car ran really well- EXCEPT it stumbles in transition sometimes and I can watch the wideband go lean. I'm thinking -hoping - the increased flow with help keep float levels at optimum level to combat my lean issue. We will see

Sorry to hear the news. Glad no one was hurt.

Time to drive .

Wow, so many different ways to do one task. Been all over looking at triple fuel line routing and it's hard to compare anything. Racetep recommends Carter fuel pump and No regulator. Some run regulator to deadhead, some regulator with return . Some say you have to have a return, others say no. Then you throw in the variable that everyone's car runs perfect on their set up (whether it does or doesnt). Other variables like what pump they are using . I think there is something to be said that most FI use a regulator after the injectors and use a return. I think that's the route I'm going .

99.99% sure it's fuel. haven't pulled the plugs but I'm pretty sure what I will find. I'm running my MS which turns the pump on and off. Not sure why it got so bad so there is much to check, but had to walk away for while.

Running an rx7 pump and it's quiet. Changed whole system over to a Mr Gasket regulator (non bypass), and car ran no different. In fact , on the way home it kept acting like it was running out of gas- almost didn't make it home. So I like your thinking Ryan. Stopping fuel flow to 3 carbs sounds like it wouldn't keep up with volume. Even today the car ran great WOT, but transition, idle was crap. So build up of pressure would happen at low demands so causing this type of regulator to shut off fuel. High demands at WOT the regulator just opens up. Is this what your saying? Lots to think about and research. Might need something better than a 40$ regulator.or maybe run a return

Interesting. I guess that will be suspect as well as everything else. It's interesting that my gauge will show 3 psi at the regulator after it stalls out from running out of gas.

Checked fuel cap and didn't seem to vent easily, so I removed vent-no difference. Time to check entire supply system

I agree with your suspicions. The point I was trying to get confirmed was that the pressure gauge might not tell me much. If partial blockage raises pressure the regulator will just adjust, but am I getting the same volume of fuel? Is my reasoning sound or not. not venting also crossed my mind. I've tried to duplicate the venting system with my Jeep tank. Maybe my tank vent valve in the engine bay is not working.

My gauge always seems to show good pressure and I run my set up dead headed. What if I was getting a partial blockage on the supply between the tank and the regulator. Would this drive the pressure up but limit volume and my regulator would keep it at 3psi. Thinking about just pulling the fuel line after the regulator and just watch it run for 10 minutes into a gallon container.

Need some ideas folks. I seem to be chasing my tail on my tune. My carbs will be great , steady idle , smooth thru the dreaded transition areas and then it changes, all in the same day. The car will die at idle arbitrarily. I can watch my AFRS go lean until she just seems to run out of gas. The other day, probably the second day driving it the tune was amazing. Transition stayed right around 14 and it didn't lean out and felt powerful right thru the rpms- this is normal driving conditions. Then all the sudden I have lea out issues in transition. New fuel pump, regulator set at 3psi. So I guess I need to check my tank and lines for some kind of partial blockage?

Still no leaks. Valve train is quiet. Cam looks great. Power is there. Plugs are tan. So far so good.

Nope. The Maxima project got shelved so I could finish the L24 . Soon it will be back off the shelf though. Can't imagine I lost much size and I will be gaining it all back and then some after Unshrouding the valves. The end number is what I'm really interested in!

So being to lazy to look up - I ask if this lapping is instead of doing a actual valve job? I thought lapping was for just that last bit of perfection , but not actually necessary. But not to be done instead of doing an actual valve job ( cutting)