madkaw

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Yeah, but with a disclaimer -, didn't work over 4K . I should have read more carefully Chris Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Ready for prime time! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Let me rephrase that statement- WE figured it out- thanks for the help guys. So if someone was to ask me to help do this I would say - Forget all the wires but the two black and whites and the green and white( this is if eliminating ballast and automatic thermo relay) Get your ohm meter and find the black and white and green white that has continuity. Take that black and white and put it on the positive terminal of the coil. Take the other black and white and solder it to the green and white . Done . What I did wrong! Disconnected everything and started from scratch . BUT I also looked for 12 volt source with all wired disconnected . When I did find 12 volts wire I used it for positive coil . I should have used the other black and white. Hope all this makes sense Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Okay- figured it out . Wrong order in the current trail. Had wrong black and white first going to + on coil . So swapped out other black and white to positive side of coil then other black and white connected to green and white and viola! My confusion is when searching for 12volts ( all wires disconnected) ,I found black and white and hooked it to coil. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I've been searching how to measure at the cam lobe. So you try and get the dial indicator on the rocket at the cam lobe ? I will see if there's enough room to get in there. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Well that didn't work. Lumens-!was this an automatic trans car? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I don't know- most everywhere I have read and seen it is using the retainer to measure off of. I've also read it is important to have the dial indicator in line with valve angle - nothing else. BRAAP on hybridz has a nice thread on degree ing a cam which he shows the dial indicator on the retainer . I believe the numbers supplied are not correct , but open to any ideas Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I'll make note that we think error is with Isky because he did the same to me as far as supplying the incorrect cam card with the cam. I have dialed in my cams using the retainer as the measuring point. Schneider had no issue with this method but warned of faulty numbers because of the inconsistent rocker arm ratios . I try to be careful to get the dial indicator in line with the angle of the valve . Reading are only done at .050 valve lift which in my understanding is the standard to method so help deter the ramp effect . The other problem we are seeing is that cam lobe center numbers don't add up to the card based on my math, but I am truly a novice at this . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Lumens , I like this diagram since it puts the tach back in series with the coil. I will try it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Certain combos caused some twitching of the tach but usually the engine wouldn't start . I can wire a complete MS 3 unit in my car but this is messing with me.

My understanding is that the 3ohm coil eliminates the need for the resistor. I could wire it back in but have doubts that's the issue

Just did a Pertronix ignition swap on a 72 automatic trans. It had the dual points dizzy but I swapped out with a single point before doing ignition swap. Engine runs fantastic, but I've lost the tach somewhere in this . The auto has additional wires that might be part of my issue. I did away with the ballast and tied those wires together . They seem to have no bearing on whether the engine runs or the tach works- which kind of confused me. The autos also had this relay set up for the secondary points, not sure if they are tied in somehow to the tach . Any insight would be appreciated

It's like tire material -steel belted radial type. Thicker than the original

I fixed my ears on my front carb- pierced them with new holes. Tired of trying to set the float tang for the wrong size needle and seat. Got out the drill and punched new holes- didn't even measure - I was pissed it was taking this long to set flit levels. I have been using the "Float Sync " tool I bought but had a few issues with them too. They don't like gas in them too long I guess - but other than that- pretty handy Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Blue stuff looks a little weak compared to what I just installed from Z car depot or the stock one I took out. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I can see it right now in this thread? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I just installed the stock strap ( new) with new mount on the 72 . I saw the strap mount bolts ( large ones) were going to be a PITA with the amount of tension on that strap. I had the diff out and had the diff mount mounted-( mouthful). I pulled the crossmember and bolted it to the diff mount and jacked everything in place at once. I used a trans jack and it was quite effortless . I didn't see anyway I was going to get that strap in with the diff there. I was actually impressed how snug and well it all fit and thought - why the hell I did the RT mount. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Well the front suspension is done and moved on to the rear . Same story as up front with dry poly bushings, and throw in there a totally separated front diff mount . The original arrestor strap did its job and kept the diff at bay. Found a few bolts not torqued and a bad spindle pin, but everything is repairable - and almost done. All new rubber bushings back in and stock mount and strap for the diff. New spindles all around . Hope to have it her own her own legs today, but will see. Half shafts getting new universals and boots with the main driveshaft also with new joints. Can say enough about how nice it is to work in a rust free machine. We haven't had to replace hardly any hardware and it still looks good too

Just looked it up and looks the same for both versions- get er done:)

Though there are different versions , I believe most need a pull up resistor for a VR sensor. There are also pots to adjust inside on the board . It's a steep learning curve but you'll get it . I've been told the ignition is the hard part with MS , fuel is easier .

Fog machines are cheap and a great way to find those leaks. That's how I found the hatch panel leak

Just noticed that link went to just the manual . Go to section 5.2.2