madkaw

You should be happy with that L24 if you make her breathe with bigger valves . Give her a healthy cam and enjoy the fun. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Yeah- looks good . Feel free to post more pics . Like to see that blue interior. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I'm digging it!!! Progress is a wonderful thing. It looks good. I like your personal touches - flares and air dam. Painted rear spoiler would be sick too! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I used a product called Quiet Car - I believe. You sprayed it in on . Much lighter than Dynomat . Wouldn't know how to compare it to other products . Comparisons would be so subjective. I have a very loud exhaust so not sure anything would help but a huge muffler. I wasn't really worried about weight at the time , just got a deal from another member on the stuff .

There are still places that rebuild these units . I recently had a 72 rebuilt . http://brakematerialsandparts.webs.com/boosterrebuilding.htm

Don't know if Donald saw this , but u will let him know Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

How early Cliff was the 73? Bo's car is a late 72, so maybe he still has small chamber head! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Stroker rods!!! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

He has 5 on the way from Indiana! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I thought this was the L28 block. I took a 73 block apart and the Pistons had reliefs like this. How big are the rod bolts- 8 or 9 mm? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

More importantly I would measure deck height of Pistons . Unless they are waaayyyy out of the top of the block I would go with what ever cam you want. I'd say with reliefs you could go 550+ Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

That's the way I'd do it. Pull a bearing cap and look. If the pan looks that clean I'd run with it. The bottom ends are tough! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Cliff, any deeper and pistons are coming out, but I hope he gets a few mile out of it first. At least everything else will done if I have to rebuild the engine itself. Most of the items I reworked or replaced was out of sheer necessity , nothing subjective here. I do believe in doing it right for sure. Don't want to have to double back because I let something go.

Problem solved 99% sure. So I pulled the relays off the sockets to remove sockets and install new grounds. Then I noticed the trigger wires on the headlight relays about falling out of the sockets. These were part of a kit and I installed all the wiring. So I guess I didn't get the trigger wire pushed in until the spade catch caught on the socket. Pushing on my relays caused them to about fall off, so I was having a weak trigger signal . Must of been like this for years , but just now really started acting up. Now I can bang on the relays and nothing happens Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

The impeller looked okay. It was not original since it was a stamped steel one. Damper Doc did the one on my car and it hasn't flown apart yet. Going to give him a chance to see it before I ask why. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

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The only common factor with all these is that they are grounded to the relay mount I made. Maybe insufficient for the power Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

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I have each headlight on a separate relay, so good point whether they both flicker . It seems both do Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Need some help and direction. Headlights flicker sometimes over bumps. Found that if I tap on my relays with the lights on the lights flicker and the relays chatter. This is a 71 which I upgraded to relays . Oddly I have my fuel pump on a relay also and I can get it to chatter also by tapping it. Only thing I think they share in common is the power source. The main power comes from a power strip that I have connected directly to the back of the alternator . Pretty sure the grounds are different between the headlights and fuel pump. Appreciate any testing methods

Well not a great day for Bo's ride. It started out innocent enough to replace the water pump that have out. Rust bolts were expected , but the corrosion on the timing cover wasn't so much. When I pulled the pump off I could see that the years of water had ate away at the pump cavity. Almost ate all the way thru near a bolt hole . It was a matter of time before it leaked or worse. I told Bo I was pulling it since I already had everything drained. Went to pull of the harmonic balancer and it came off in 2 pieces. This is the one Damper Doctor just rebuilt. I actually got the cover off without much fuss and didn't tear up any gaskets . Only to find the timing chain issue. In the end though, if the pump hadn't gave out I wouldn't have found these other issues that would have detonated at 60mph on a back road leaving him stranded- so a silver lining . Ordered a new chain kit and damper got sent back to the Doc. He seemed to know exactly what he did wrong when I talked to him briefly. He apologized for the issue

How weird , maybe I can just see it? I will have to take another pic, I can't find mine now Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Yep Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Charles , Don is the owner of the 72 I'm working on. He doesn't know I already posted for these , but it's the ones in the backing plate that have the threads for the cover box Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club