madkaw

Guys - it's just a stock cam that will have to be reground to be anything of interest to me . The head is my main concern. The block is toast but might be able to sell off the pistons and rods and the crank will probably polish up. Not sure if I want to try and punch out another L24 just make this engine again. I did contact one of the previous owners and he said it ran like well, but he didn't do the work

Nope - nothing was done to ports except blend seats . It had Webers on there at one time or another

So this is getting more interesting. 86mm bore O- ringed . The cam seems stock . Shims are .035 so betting chambers are about 39cc . The top of the head was also surfaced . Head passed a pressure test and is .009 out of flat . Valve seats look like they were done right but still investigating . Cam will have to be turned , most of the rockers are okay , it some have some pits. Springs are rusty enough to warrant not using them . Lash pads and retainers are okay . I'm going to try and make a good head out of this e31 . Ports were only blended for the bigger seats Crank journals and bearings have had a hard life

Remedies for clogging might be similar to burr tools that clog. I've read of wax, anti- seize , etc... Gouging the aluminum is what you want to avoid , but so easily done with a course file that doesn't clog- double edged sword!

I'd be happy with that! Most folks won't notice the dissimilarity . I need to start practicing with my TIG . I want to weld in intakes myself !!

There's lots of options

Big difference between gas smell and EXHAUST smell . It seems you are referring to exhaust . Many ways for it to get in the cabin if car is not properly sealed . Start searching exhaust fumes on this site and others. Biggest culprits tail light seals hatch seals inner hatch panel seal

Good deal- Richard will get you heading in the right direction . It's a bit of a steep learning curve - at least for me it was , but with some guidance you'll figure it out

Have any luck?

I'm not sure there is much difference in tuning procedures between any engines. The principles are the same. Specifically the older engine design of the L motor will not tolerate a bad tune as well as more developed combustion chambers and dual overhead cam set ups. Most issues with these motors are with detonation and HG failures in the latter cylinders. Timing should be kept conservative unless dyno tuning with knock sensor capability . You should pay the extra fee to have VEAL available to help self tune. The analyzer does a pretty good job of helping dial in VE tables , but nothing for timing. Veal will even help warm up tables. As mentioned earlier there is a wealth of info on Hybridz . There is a dedicated Mega Squirt forum to search from. Chickenman is on this site and many others (Richard Boyk), so maybe you could PM him to see if he is available to help you. He is very familiar with tuning EFI and has a wide range of knowledge with aftermarket ECU's. He helped me get a head start on tuning with MS3 and tutored me on tuning in general. He could look at your tune and pretty much tell you what the car was set up for. He could help you get a more street friendly tune. I'm cutting my teeth with NA , so it's less likely to implode with a mistake. You don't have that option, so I would advise getting help before making adjustments and hoping for the best. In general, I am happy with my MS. My car runs very well and performs as well as it did with my triple Mikunis. It's a steep learning curve , but well worth the study

Like Zed says - you have a nice set up. You really need to get as many specifics on your build before putting any power to this engine. Your VE table looks lean at boost , but I'm only NA . Injectors are huge and low impedenance I know nothing about tuning . I went with high impedance . Whatever you do- go really slow and conservative as not to combust that engine. Timing is critical too. I would HIRE someone like "Chickenman " to help you reign that in. It would be well worth your money to invest in some help. I can help a little since I run MS 3x on my car .

Question- have you attempted this without putting tin on the cable and just filling the ball socket?. I know the solder battery cable ends are filled with solder and require no tin of the cable and it holds fine

Wow- nice write up. I am currently contemplating this for my TB. I have no return issue or binding for that matter - but it should would clean up the intake and make future intake plenums easier to install .

I remember when mine was going back together and how it looked perfect( not as perfect as yours) , and for that brief unused moment it was so clean and pretty!

Yikes - looks like an Octupus is trying to swallow your steering column. Don't like the proximity to the brake valve

Couldn't find any 86mm rings or non at all? Was there any oversized available?

WOW- you got a lot going on here. I didn't see anywhere in this thread as whether you did a good check on battery voltage and alternator output.

Tick toc tick toc ....

17 initial - 35-38 total

Wait - are we talking cam timing or ignition timing?

The smart thing to do is to degree it. There are variables to consider, but you could get away with straight up. Variables like chain stretch , head shave , make a difference . I'm running 9 degrees advance on my cam, but with above stated factors

You'll love the brake kit. Been running it for years and haven't had any issues. The hydraulic brake I wouldn't trust for nothing. I kind of miss having a parking brake. All the components have worn well and the calipers still shine up nicely. Another benefit of his top hats is that your aftermarket wheels will clear the whee bearing cap and you can actually use your wheel caps. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I think the next thing for me is the linkage- about to go cable

Look mom- no dizzy

Definitely looks cleaner . Now go aftermarket ECU and get rid of more stuff - like dizzy and wires !