madkaw

Yep, seen those threads-not very informative.

I've been searching and can't seem to find a thread where a member has documented the install. Now I know someone has done this and has some hints for install:) Thanks

The contrast is polar, that's what's crazy. True for heat or defrost. Murphy's Law hard at work;)

It is bizzare. I have a spare heater unit and have looked at it and can't figure how the warm air can split so evenly. Hopefully i will have a chance to mess with it today. I drained my coolant and plan on forcing water through the core in both directions to see how clean it comes out. I will just disconnect the hoses on the engine side and open up the heater valve and run water through that way. I REALLY don't want to have to pull this heater core because you know what kind of job that is. I have a spare that looks really clean. This car sat for a really long time and I had the radiator flushed and it did have some sediment in it.

I have restored these units so I am aware of how they function - that's why this is so bizarre . No confusion on the vents. If something was blocking the heat it would also ne blocking air flow, which it isn't . The only explanation is no coolant is reaching the backside of the core and the air is not getting heated.

Yes, like I said, the forced air is coming out- just cold

Never had this happen before, but I only get heat on one side of the interior. I'm not talking forced air- I have that both sides. Air only comes out warm on the passenger side. I think there can only be one explanation for this - half the heater core is clogged. Anyone else experience this? I was going to try and backflush the core so I don't have to remove it- any suggestions?? I googled this and read somewhere that the person forced water through the core in the opposite direction and loosened junk up in there.

Found a safe haven for my Z to rest for the winter out of the snow while i try to finish up HLS-30 41000

Your problem will be the stock FI. That will be your limiting factor, but if you have been on these sites and read anything, you know the power is to be found in the head. Maybe some FI guys can chime in on what has worked for them. All the info is out there-

Call the Damper Doc and ask

Steve, since you are running in a stock rpm range, why not have the original damper rebuilt? I sent my damper to the Damper Doctor -that was years ago. He guarantees the damper for 3 years. He redoes the rubber and says the damper will exceed factory HP numbers and rpm. I don't see the need for a 10krpm damper. Side note: Glad to see a company supporting our cars-MSA- but they don't seem really check out the products they sell.

These cars or projects take a huge investment in -time-more than anything. There is hardly a problem on these cars or other cars that haven't been experienced by someone else and is readily available via google. Learning how to make it work will make you abtter troubleshooter later and save you big$$$$ I will get off my pulpit-

Doubtful, you probably just have Tokico HP strut cartridges that fit your car.

Mike, Wish I lived closer, I would be over to learn and help since forced induction is my next step. I am surprised you tackled such a big project knowing you would have to rely so heavily on outside services. Hybridz is a wealth of info regarding this seemingly easy swap. Maybe it's time to hit the books instead of the wallet. If it's in and running then maybe some tough troubleshooting just needs to be done. For me it's the learning experience that spurs me on - but knowing there will be set backs.

One step foward and two steps back, it takes patience. You said you were sure you were getting gas to the carbs, but now your not sure. Start from ground zero. Get the fuel situation solved for sure. You should have a steady stream of fuel coming out the line with the engine turning over. Not sure if you can install a pump wrong, but you should have felt pressure forcing the pump lever against the cam when installing. A car that sits for a long time is prime target for rust in the tank. Definetly check all your vacuum lines for leaks, the car will never want to start with any kind of vacuum leak.

Since you said you had rust issues you need to check the fuel sending unit. My zxt was doing the same thing and the sending unit looked new but had accumulated crap in the pick up tube. The car would just die for no apparent reason. A pressure check would help prove this

When you pulled the tank did you check the fuel sending unit pick up tubes to see if they were clear. Rust will build up in the tubes and clog it

I'll admit I was thinking I was going to see one of the "restorations" -that really wasn't a restoration, but WOW is right. Exceptional amount of work there-keep it up.

Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I might jump on this one. I have a 71 with A/C and I have heat only coming from one side of the car-right down the middle guys- never seen this one before. All the heat is coming out the passenger side-BUT air is still blowing where it should be on the driver's side-just not hot. Now I have redone one of these HVAC units for my car, and for the life of me I can't see how this is happening unless the heater core is bad on one side? Any ideas??

My car is a 9/71 and considered a 71. It is one of those models that has both 71 and 72 characteristics. This car is # 41000 and mine is 43413 Here's something funny, I'm driving around and the heat only comes out of the passenger side vents, heat and defrost. The driver's side is cold-what gives? Even funnier-the clock is working-

Getting closer to putting this car on the market. I have refinished the interior with new carpet and refurbished seats.The seats are actually 73 retractables, but I think it's a tasteful upgrade. The interior is very complete from seat belt hooks to original Hitachi radio that works. The exterior is shaping up too, still working out something for a complete rear bumper to match the euro-type front bumper. I pulled the motor and replaced the clutch and at the same time painted the motor so it is very presentable and complete(need to take pics) I have been driving it around and must say that this is a driver. with basically all new suspension and tires, it is a dream to drive . Very quiet except for the noisy A-box trans. With all new weatherstripping there is no wind noise and the car has no squeaks or rattles to be heard. Yet to do is buffing out paint and installing emblems. I think the heater valve might be shot, there wasn't much heat the other day coming from the vents. Not a biggy, I should figure anything 40+ years old might not work. Some pics

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Leon, I believe the gear oil was changed the first time I worked on this car-years ago. I'm willing to change the oil again, but haven't found much as far as additives or specialized gear oil for this issue. Any recommendations? As far as the noise level, i know it's hard to decipher from the video, but it's abnormally loud. That coupled with the typical noisy diff, lack of insulation, makes for a distracting ride. I am a Z owner , so I know this is a 40+ year old car and can't expect new car quiet- and my concerns are with that perspective. The killer is that this car drives amazingly well with all new suspension bits, and is very quiet as far as rattles and squeaks and with all new weatherstripping.

Not sure what you mean as far as cost/benefit. This is a really nice 71 with 85k miles, so i want it to sound as good as it drives. Looking to get top dollar and that won't happen with this trans. If it costs 500.00 to rebuild or quiet this tranny-- I would think that would surely offset the loss of final price from someone worried about buying a car with a bad trans . One issue is that I will be paying someone to do this because I don't have the time or knowledge to mess with any transmission. I'm willing to pull it and plop it on someones workbench, which should save $$$

Drove the car around some today and your statement seems to hold true about fourth gear-it does get quiet. So where does that leave me as far as fixes? Since the car will be up for sale, I would think most prospective buyers would be leary of the noise-it is pretty loud. The trans seems to function just fine though. Sounds like trying to find a replacement A trans will just be more of the same from what you guys are saying. It also sounds like a rebuild won't fix this-really?

Pay it all up front now or slowly pay for what you want. Let's face it, to find the right color, and the paint to be nice, and nothing else to do to the car= $$$$$$ right now Or, plug along and change the color to what you want as you fix up the car and KNOW what you have. Done the color change thing myself(ironically I got rid of the silver-BUT I do love silver), it's a lot of work, but not much more than a quality paint job. Those days you are waiting on parts or saving up for something, get some sandpaper(cheap) and start sanding those tough areas-door jambs and such. Primer bare spots and keep plugging along.Are you decent at body work? It's worth big bucks to yourself. Hell. drive it and sand it too! Get all the bugs out before you spray some pretty color on there. The other point of view is that you can take advantage of someones else's investment. Let you said, noone makes money on these deals, and you might be money ahead( not to speak of time) to spend the money up front and buy a real nice silver car. We all know what it's worth to have a solid body and good paint on a car.