240ZX

Donovan, There is a search function that allows you to look through years of information that have been collected, regarding just about any subject matter on the early Z's. Usually when you don't get a reply to a question, it's because the subject has been discussed so many times before.....and tire/wheel fitment issues are high on the "Been discussed many time before list". Also, looking through the photo gallery may help you out with deciding a tire/wheel combo. Welcome aboard and happy hunting.

It's interesting that some folks think the white face gauges are "ricey"! Does anyone remember the old Smith gauges in early sports cars? These babies were white faced and set a trend in sports car gauge looks. Certainly not a "ricey" thing. This RICER thing is rediculous.....its just a bunch of young car guys who don't have the $$$ to do all the right things to make their car a real goer and happen to like Japanese sedans and such. They spend what they can to at least make their car look racey. Give it a break, at least they are into cars!

Nice spelling Bill! Itle = It'll...as in it will!!! Creative though!

Mark, I have a picture in my photo album of my engine bay with the K&N filters. The picture isn't at an angle that shows the complete filter set but maybe it will give you an idea of how they look.

I don't get it or is this the joke? I enter my birth date, which is certainly over 21 years of age, and it responds with....You must be 21 years of age! Duhhhhhhhhhhhh!

How about....MMMMMMM or MMMMINE or -MY77Z-

OK, this is just second hand information but, I've read that the ITG foam filters are not recommended for regular use on street machines as they do not filter as fine a particulate as do paper or gause filters. They are designed for race conditions where maximum airflow is the major concern. Besides, racers tend to service their race cars between races so they may have less than 200 miles on a service. Check out the K&N system (separate filter for each SU).

Alot of the old stories about oil/filter and frequencies of changing it have mostly come from the companies that manufacture the stuff....like changing your oil/filter every 3000 miles (Gee, they're just trying to sell more product!!!). Take a look in the owners manuals today and see what they have to say!!! OK, you say my Z is not a new car and this does not really apply. Major brand oils have come along way with improving the durability and performance of their oils, espacially synthetics. I'm a big fan of Mobil#1 oil/filters.....a bit more pricey but thats my choice. I used to change oil/filter every 3000 miles until I did some serious investigation on what the experts (independent test labs) had to say about the current state of oils and how often oil/filter changes are recommended. Just like most of the auto manufactures will tell you and the independent labs agree, it depends upon the type of driving you do but under normal driving conditions (city/hwy) changing your oils and filter at 5000 miles is what is recommended. Shoot, some of the latest oils are recommending up to 15K mile between changes. But it's OK to fatten up the oils companies with unnecessary oil/filter changes....I'm sure they don't mind one bit $$$!!! Again, I believe synthetics is the way to go....especially if you tend to run her a bit hard. The stuff far surpasses dino oil. Just another man's opinion!

Very cool video......looks just like the super moto guys landing after big air!

He will be back....

Arne, Here's a thought to ponder regarding the vented spook......Z's raced in the rain and with ducting to the brakes! I think your only concern, driving in the rain, should be an apprpriate set of tires intended for use in the rain...not the brakes.

Interesting, my 1970 (HLS3002126) came with the summer/winter flap on the snorkel. I wasn't aware there were ones without it! Can anyone confirm this?

Derek, If you intend to tune your Z, also include doing the other basic tune-up items....setting valve clearance, setting timing, etc. Also, new plugs, plug wires, condenser, rotor, rotor cap, and maybe even the coil. And as you have planned, breath on the carbs. Consider the condition of your fuel, especially if the car has been sitting a long while. The list goes on but, if your going to do it, do it right as each system effects the other for overall performance. Good luck and congrates on the early Z find....3137 is a pretty low number!

Your so kind Vicky.......please excuse me, it's monday!

I beg your pardon, oh purist crowd.....I happen to think 17" wheels on the early Z look terrific, provided a complimenting ride height. Vicki, you seem to have a negative obsession about (rubberband tires) low profile tires....each to their own but some of us like the more up-to-date look and performance they offer. Sorry, but that just my opinion. I think I get far more compliments on my Z with 17" wheels than I would if it had 14", 15", or 16". 17"s tends to look a bit progressive than the run of the mill 14", 15", or 16". Man I'll probably catch flack for this one!

Hi Nick, I think you have the right idea coming here. Nows a good tiime to start your research, as there are tons of info lurking at your finger tips. By using the search function you will discover that just about any question you can think of has been asked many many times.......likewise, just about anything you can think of regarding upgrades and modification to the Z car has been done too! So, welcome and happy hunting. P.S. The Z car bug is VERY contagious!!!

Welcome Jake......For starters, be aware there is a search function on this site loaded with tons of info on just about any Z subject you might imagine! Regarding your Z's running condition, drain the old fuel out and replace with fresh fuel......do a basic tune-up! If you don't already own a repair manual, get one and become familiar with your Z. This question is asked regularly, so your not alone.....just do some reading and then get-R-done!

The 3 screw SU will mount up to either intake manifold. I've got the 3 screw SUs on a 1970 intake and they work perfectly....of course the water cavity on the SUs are a non-function item now.

To the best of my knowledge, the 3 screw and 4 screw SUs are identical internally, so performance is equal. Only external differences exsist. The chambers you mentioned are for heating up the carbs......emition stuff.

First off, I'm assuming you slid the right rear of your Z into a curb while going around a turn!!? Anyway, you may want to inspect your wheel as it may have been knocked out of true from the impact. Also, get it back on the rack and take measurements, as you would for checking the squareness of any object. You may need a second person to help. Somehow I don't think your problem is the differential.

I think they call it a short!

Just a wild quess but, it sounds to me like condensation in the distributor cap is causing the ignition to ground out to the chassis.

Welcome aboard Scott! I'm almost your neighbor.....I live over the hill from you in Santa Paula. Boy, your in deep now.....the Z bug is very contagious and sometimes expensive, as you probably already know. Plus, you have joined a very unique croud here! Lots of info to be had as well as emotional support...when needed.