JLPurcell

Still fighting this problem. I pulled the booster this evening and am sending it out to Brake Power Booster Exchange in OR. for check out and possible rebuild. I have also pulled the brake master cylinder and found that it is not the correct part. It is for the 70 - 71 models. I am looking for a NOS 1972 Master Cylinder if anyone has any leads let me know. I would like to have an original, if possible. I will be checking out the other components as I go through the complete system.

Joe, I still have not been billed for them. I do not profit from these obsessive projects of mine once I get the bill I will sell them at whatever it cost me to have them made.

Yes, I knew that he had them. Norm will no longer sell to me.

I took a look, I see the door striker shim but not the hinge shims. LINK?

The restoration of my FJ40 was at a stand still for a while, but with the installation of the top it is complete. I am considering installing an Gobi roof rack and a Warren winch. The procrastination is taking it away from it's basically stock restored condition.

Charles, just let me know, I am sure I will have plenty. JLP

I needed door hinge shims and could not find any. I had a vendor laser cut some for me, fifty to be exact. I had an original for them to use to set up the cut. Does anyone else need any? I still plan to have them zinc plated before install.

The brake pistons are 1.63" each total of 8. The master cylinder is the stock 7/8". The stopping force is limited but the vehicle will stop when the brakes are applied with hard pedal force. The pedal pumps up almost immediately and is hard with no give. When you pump up the brakes, engine off, and then start the engine you can feel a slight give in the pedal. The booster hose removed on the master vac side of the one way valve is holding vacuum. I hope this is a better explanation. My explanation has gotten mixed in with answering other queries. thanks

The pedal is hard with very little braking force. I currently have the car on jack stands and will get someone to help me test which wheels are locking etc...In the past I ran a MK63 non-vented rotor set up on the stock master cylinder.

I am at wits end on the brakes. I have not started randomly replacing parts, but don't know how to continue in trying to diagnose my problem. A few months ago I found a set of NOS MK63 calipers (for vented rotors). They had been sitting for years. I found rebuild kits took them apart had them cleaned out and reassembled them. I found a set of vented rotors and installed the upgrade. My complete brake system was gone through in the restoration completed in 2012. The system worked well prior to the upgrade. The car has a stock 7" mastervac and TOKICO 7/8" master cylinder. Since installation I have a hard pedal. When I pump up the brakes and then start the car. the pedal moves just slightly. When I removed the hose to the booster is was holding vacuum. I have re-bleed the brake numerous times with no change. I am ready to put the stock system back in place and drive the car! Anyone have any ideas on how to continue to look for the answer? Thanks JLP

I am looking for a set of 44 or 40 Mikuni's preferably on a Datsun Comp intake, but not absolutely necessary.

I have a couple of Uni-sync tools. I always switch between the two to make sure I am getting good flow readings. One is new and the others I have had for over 40 years.

I pulled the banjo fitting tonight and the filter is clean. I will order a set for future use but that is not the problem.

I tuned my carbs the normal way, but the addition of the "color tune" plug gave me a way to confirm the tune by being able to see the combustion color. Blue with a slight yellow pattern is preferred for performance according to the color tune guide.

I just completed the refresh of one of our members antenna. It was great to have the rubber parts available for this project. Thanks 240Z Rubber Parts.com for these great reproduction parts. The latest being the drain tube and grommet.

The supplied fuel tube (pipette) in the above kits can cause problems with the nozzle return. If your SU have the 45' angle nozzle then you should buy the ones offered by Datsun Parts (http://www.datsunparts.com/U20-Carburator) part#1644 pipette. it is formed correctly to allow for the nozzle to freely return to upper position.

;Once, I take a look at the banjo fitting filter, if that does not fix the problem I will order new needle valves and swap them out. Thanks JLP

Yes they are.

Mark, I did not think about the banjo fitting. I will check that tomorrow. The float levels is set in accordance to the guide that comes with the float sync. 14mm above the body of that tool. It may be 1mm low. The mixture screws are approximately 3.5 turns down. This is where the idle is stable with carbs synced and the color tune has a nice blue with just a slight yellow tone burn in the chamber. The real test will be under load. Thanks for your continued help with this. JLP

OK, I used my Float Sync tool and a color tune spark plug to set up my SU's today. All went relatively well, but having the advantage of seeing what is going on in the float bowl with the Float Sync caused me to have a question. When off of idle, (hand race engine), the front float bowl level is dropping, the rear is stable. Under load I believe the car will lack fuel in the font carburetor. My first thought is that the fuel pump is not pumping enough volume for both carbs. I am sure someone has a better grasp on this and understands why the back carb would get the fuel it needs as apposed to the front. See Video. IMG_0746.MOV

Set my float levels and balanced the SU's. Used the Float Sync for setting the floats and a color tune for checking the mixture. It seems to have worked, won't know until I get it out under load. I did notice one thing using the Float Sync, the front carb fuel level is dropping once off of idle and the rear is not. I will have to pose the question in a new post and see what the carb gods say about that.

Gav is looking for a early block in the 015XXX area.

What is the VIN# and engine #. There is a member looking for a early block. JLP

I can attest to this. Our fire department had a 1964 grass rig (Ford 1 ton 4x4 pick up) that was only used in the summers for grass fires. It had less than 20K miles. We sold it at auction and the buyer did nothing to protect it and as a all weather driver it "melted" away in two years. First brake lines then body parts.