JLPurcell

Dangerous, I must have been living dangerously! I raced on these for a few years and they were not only light they were bullet prof. Course slide offs across access roads etc.. bent parts but never a wheel. Just be sure and carry a class "D" extinguisher! If it makes you feel safer.

I went and took a look at this car. I don't know if it is still available but I could check for you. It is over your budget but can probably be purchased under 20K and needs very little work it is very original and comes with the original wheels and caps. LMK if you are interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-/251258438549?_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&forcev4exp=true

There is currently a set of racing Cromodora wheels with knokoffs on ebay. Ferrari Daytona Nart Cromodora Wheel Scuderia Alloy Rim Race Car | eBay

Is this the wheel you are referencing?

I believe these were considered 7" and measures so tight inside to inside. They were the widest that you could run in SCCA CP class at the time. You can still put some great rubber on the ground with 14' wheels but you are talking DOT race tires for the best outcome. I have a original set of 14" American Racing Libres on my 72 and I am running a set of TOYO R888 DOT race tires. They do not fill the wheel wells but they do stick the car to the road and I don't mind the look.

My old school Minilites (true magnesium) from the 70’s, I just pick my set of 4 up from having them media blasted and a fresh powder coat applied. I am getting them ready to sell. 14X7.5 Amazingly I found all 16 original lug nuts which are off having the chrome stripped and then they will get a black zinc plate.

You are correct the antenna mast finisher has been impossible to find. Luckily Les installed a nice if not NOS one on my car in the restoration process so I have a good exterior ball and finisher but I do not have any spares. I do have one or two bullet tip mast in good condition for being used. I was lucky to get a NOS bullet tip mast for my restoration project thanks to a member on this site. Thanks again DAN! JLP

Not that I know of, there are companies which restore them for between $60.00 & $100.00 each. The pieces for restoration have to be in good condition (no plastic deterioration) for the process to have a good result. The best I have found for this is located in Connecticut. jlp

I finished the rebuild of an antenna for my car today complete with a NOS bullet tip mast (Thanks Dan!). One more project to cross off my list. I posted a thread on the rebuild if you are interested. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/49392-antenna-rebuild-restore.html

All that it left to do is install the assembly cover, retaining bracket and the interior mast shaft parts (grounding assembly, metal half ball and interior half of the rubber mounting ball). Note: I will be using the current exterior shaft retaining parts currently on my car. They are as new and I have not been able to find extra of those parts in usable condition. Once final assembly was complete I lubricated the mast (silicone spray) ran power to the antenna and did some fine adjustments to insure smooth operation. I hope this post will help other members in the future.

The next step was to install the gear and clutch assembly. I almost forgot to install the black plastic cover prior to installation of the clutch assembly. It simply snaps into place. The order of the fasteners is as follows. First the retaining nut them 3 shim washers, then the retaining clip followed by the spacer washer. Apply grease to the gear, shaft and surface at the base of the shaft. Install the clutch unit, screw on retaining nut (do not over tighten), install the three shim washers (apply grease to them), then the retaining clip followed by the spacer washer (this can be installed later). Once the clutch assembly is in place you can pull out the antenna mast as far a possible to allow for the end of the nylon line to be attached to the clutch assembly using the cotter pin. Once this was complete I installed the metal cover / guide over the clutch assemble then ran power to the antenna fully retracting the it.

I then installed the NOS mast in the housing shaft and ran the mast nylon drive line into the gear housing and installed the two retaining screws to hold the mast and housing in place. Next I installed the plastic guide and retaining screw and then I installed the motor housing (cover). Note: I applied a small amount of sealer to the base to protect motor from moisture.

I first took the gear housing and installed the electric motor and drive gear. Note the small bearing on the end of the drive gear. The bearing needs to be lubricated with grease (also hold it in place on the end of the gear). Make sure to loosen the adjustment screw on the housing prior to tightening down the motor. Once motor is in place and tight the adjustment screw can be adjusted. Next the wires will need to be soldered to the motor. The red and blue to the open housing side of the motor (left) and the white and blue to the closed (right side). I then rand a test and fine tuned the adjustment of the tension on the adjustment screw and tightened the set screw.

In an earlier thread I documented the process of having fasteners and other metal parts zinc plated. At that time I had some antenna brackets, covers and fasteners plated which helped complete my antenna restoration. First I collected a number of donor antennas in a variety of states of disrepair. From this I was able to glean enough good parts to complete my antenna restoration. All selected parts were cleaned and prepared for assembly.

I am sure members are aware that in my list of projects to bring my restored 72 to the next level I wanted to find a NOS bullet tip antenna. That has proven to be difficult but in my quest members donated or sold me donor antennas:D for parts and I was able to find enough good parts to complete a restoration of an antenna which is the next best thing. The finishing touch came when a member offered me a NOS mast. I hope the following will help other members in the position of wanting a good working original antenna.

Carl, Thanks for the offer the original was spare was TOYO. I had Ssnake Oyl (Texas) do the seat belts (see thread), I had to do the zinc plated parts, electrical, and stiping and powdercoating of the cradles they are as new. The luggage straps I sent out to Zedsaver and the plating is good as well as the fasteners but I wish the webbing would have been replaced. I believe I sent out two good sets got one set back and I believe Norm charged $80.00. JLP

Pulled the Z out of the “Car Jacket” yesterday and as promised there was not even surface rust on the rotors. I changed the wheels and tires out and installed the battery with all of the correct new parts (tray from Banzai, and cover from Les). Installed reproduction voltage regulator cover from Banzai and then took it for a drive. I hope to chisel away at my list over the next few weeks. I am hoping to find the time to attend the Z meet in Nashville, IN on June 14 & 15; it is just a couple hours from Richmond. Hope to get a couple more things checked off my list today.:bulb:

Prior to picking up my car from Les I went to the BMV and had a number of selections written down for my personalized plate. They were all taken so I had to come up with one on the spot.

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Last fall I brought a 1972 Datsun 240Z for parts. My 5 year old grandson hopped in and declared that the passenger seat was his. He said that it was the most comfortable seat he had sat in. I just finished making him a desk chair. Would not let me edit. I sometimes type faster than I think! That is not to say I type fast!

Last fall I brought a 72 home to strip. My grandson hopped in and declared the passenger set was his. He said that it was the most comfortable seat he had ever sat in:love: (in his 5 years of life). I decided to make him a desk chair and we finished it today.

You know the photo shows what looks to be a possible fuel lead from the seam, (one of two places in the tank showing damage), but I did not notice this when inspecting the car. I would for consideration purposes assume that there may be a small leak at the seam due to the damage. JLP

Rubber seals are deteriorated and the bumper rubber trim is hard and showing deterioration. The car has the Series 2 style tool boxes on the deck behind the seats and it looks as if the spare is the original. I hope this helps. jlp

The antenna is not original, the original wheels and hub caps are in the boxes shown in the photos. The paint job shows well but is a 5 out of 10 in my estimation. The seat covers have been replaced with reproductions, the smog pump goes with the car but is locked up and has been removed and a make shift pulley put in its place. Let me know if I can help in any way even to the point of negotiation. JLP

Carl, you are right on the money as usual. I just took a look at the car and it is a nice driver. I has damage to the gas tank where it was either hit in the rear or ran up on something. The right rear hatch deck has had some repair the left side has not (damage or rust?). Under the battery tray has had some paint but I do not believe it has been patched. This being a late 71 production has the vertical defrost but does not have the vents in the rear hatch. I tool some photos of the normal problem areas and have attached them. After talking with the owner I believe that this car can be purchased in the mid teens. Let me know if anyone wants more information. JLP