gnosez

Keep the tranny support brace installed to ensure the right positioning of the tunnel. And I managed to reinstall the battery box and run the new wires through the grommets. Next up: way too many things to list....

An R180 is quite fine running all day at the track with 325+hp. Can I ask what the import cost of the LOM55 diff will be? What gear ratio?

No contest... Well played, well played indeed.

Dual EGT gauge and probes Tranny oil temp gauge 2mm head gasket (89mm) Got new G-Force shoes and Nomex socks from my wife.

self tapping screw. They were held on with bolts so don't solder it.

A list of the parts you're looking for would help guide us guide you.

We actually believe it was the Albanians who swarmed the server. Not because of my website but rather one that had a reporters blog on it dealing with extortion activities in a major east coast city. Happy Christmas to one and all.

We are back online and have frame rails, seat brackets, sway bar and jack plates available for delivery. While I can't prove that the Koreans were behind the attack on the server that my website was on it along with others lost service for several months. If you have any issues with the new site just email me and I'll get your parts on the way. John@baddogparts.com

So Bob Sharp liked a loose suspension set-up on his S30s. Those Zs had large sway bars front and rear with perhaps 200 lb springs and a mid-range shock setting. Bob liked and taught others to throw the car into the car and power out of the turn. Of course having the balls to do as Bob instructed (and did himself) was the tough part. The cars were set up to run sprint races so the mind numbing and back breaking harshness of say a 12 or 24-hr race car became a factor when Bob drove against factory works cars that had really stiff suspension set-ups. By the end of the season the stiff suspension drivers were reluctant to even get in their cars

We've had heim jointed front control arms snap but never the rear bracket. Must have been a few interesting minutes. It might be an east coast thing but many S30 racers don't run a rear sway bar. As to the ST bracket (I have one on my up on blocks street 240), I would be on the phone with them ASAP. Just maybe it's all the HP you're putting down that caused it to break...

I have a similar ratio diff (R180 for me) which will get a Quaife installed next month. Your tires are 1.5 inches taller than the 225/50/15 we are required to run in Vintage. What's next is figuring out the right tranny gears to match the track.

Or use FI hose

More like a 25% loss. As to the noise level, check your valve settings. Measure at the lash pad but get the number from Dave first. You will likely have to cut a feeler gauge to fit at the lash pad. Look online for a narrow set of gauges.

Just before the 3.2L gave up the ghost it was making 277rwhp and about the same amount of torque at 5800rpm. Torque was mostly level from 4000 to 7000 rpm.

A nice change of events. Dave Rebello called and offered to provide me a short block and using my other parts build a replacement motor free of charge.

I have one on the street Z (AZ Z oil pan) and we use one on the back-up L24 for the race car. I've had one on some L series engine for over 10 yrs now. They are very nice. Make sure to get hex bolts as there are a few places on the side of the pan where a normal bolt head doesn't allow you to put a socket to it.

48 qts??? How many engines did you buy? The 10 qt BSR oil pan with the cooler, filter and lines means we put in 14 qts at the start of the race season. Unless something goes wrong we change it once mid-season. On a street car 5,000 miles plus would be fine and even with an Arizona Z oil pan that's just 6 qts. No cooler is needed on a street car with an NA motor and especially not up in your neck of the woods. The cost per qt makes the 48 attractive however. As to a 90hp loss in the drivetrain, that's more than the normal 15% you'd expect to see. That would work out to a crank hp of about 320 which is far short of the 358 shown on Dave's dyno. And 273rwhp is not close to the cost of that engine build. For less money you could get a turbo set-up making 400+.

I have had three different engines build by Dave and had issues with every single one. The dyno sheets are suspect but the lash of 0.007 is correct though I got 0.006 for the 3.2L. I had to cut a feeler down to fit into the smaller opening. The 3.2L or should I say 3.1L based on the measurements taken after we took the motor apart 2 weeks ago dyno'ed at 358hp by Dave but only 273rwhp on a chassis dyno. That much hp loss would equal enough heat to fry my tranny and/or diff, so we just threw his dyno sheet away. All three engines were broken in and Dave recommended Penn oil. I normally run 100 or more octane gas so when it started to make detonation like noises I was on the phone with Dave a few minutes after turning off the engine. Another dyno day. All good. Four 30 minute sessions over two days at The Glen and all but the rings on piston #6 were toast. What caused this to happen, no one knows. What are we going to do to prevent it from happening again you might ask. We've installed a cockpit fuel pressure gauge, a second O2 sensor, reconfigured the fuel delivery lines and filters, and installed EGT sensors. Next up is a different dizzy. We will replace the N42 head Dave did and the Mikunis he supplied with the E33 head and Solex carbs from the original #33 Bob Sharp car. I'm waiting to see if the sonic test shows we can go out another thousandth to accommodate the coating we'll apply to the existing JP pistons (no Dave didn't coat them). We'll rebuild it as I don't want to wait 6 plus months for it to return nor pay Dave to do something we can do ourselves at this point. Once this is done we'll take it to Williams Racing and have it tuned on the engine dyno. It will be set up to run middle of the pack times but made to last a full season. I can only hope those in front of me have engines that fail.

Needs a few more ponies or 200 less pounds

I travel to Birmingham on a monthly basis so it's possible. My Z, which I had out today up in New Hampshire. I instruct for BMW, Audi, SCDA1 and vintage race with VRG and SVRA.

I'm confused. Why not just jack the car up and then use jack-stands? A whole lot cheaper. And I do know all about a lowered Z since both the street and race 240Z have just over 3 inches of clearance at the middle of the engine cradle support assembly and the twin exhaust pipes on the race car might be just at 3 inches if that. The race car has a removeable front spoiler as it would never be able to go up a ramp without scrapping.

Mallory Comp 110 or higher. Much much quieter than any Holley pump. Not cheap. Use on my street 3,2L 240Z. Have Holley Blues on the race car because once the car is started you can't hear sh#t.

I agree that these "marketing produced 240Zs" are special all in themselves and IMHO they should be left as-is with all the little quirks they came with. And while some may want car # 13, I want cars # 6, 8 & 14 (in the state of condition they are right now and not as they came from the "Factory").

Waste of money to get the exact suspension set-up you want and the ability to change it to suit future needs? Only if you don't have the money.

Both those buzzers can easily be taken care of by pulling a wire connector off. As to the statement that these are needed is based more on the thought that you as an individual need a nanny to remind you to do something. Grow a pair, disconnect two wires and click your seat belt into position before you turn the ignition key. Real Men don't need buzzers.....