gnosez

What does it smell like (coolant, oil)? Carbs or FI? If carbs is the coolant tube leaking? It ONLY happens when you start it? More info will help someone smarter than me figure this out....

Car is heavier now so you might think about adding more HP. A warm engine is a happy engine.....

Back then I was running projects that took me away for months at a time and we would hire a local person to handle all the paperwork, calls, etc. We had to let her go and she ended up making calls to my house and saying things that weren't true. Wife was pissed about my being away, then this and when I didn't make it back for her birthday she had the VW towed to a scrap yard where they took the engine out along with the tank and pressed the rest into a rectangle which they deposited in the front lawn.

October !974, 260Z purchased from Bob Sharp's dealership for $5280 I believe which included taxes and fees. Stolen and stripped 14 months later. I personally saw two street sweepers trying to yank the wheels off as I got there with the police after someone called them. The engine and tranny, interior, doors, hood and most of the glass was gone or damaged beyond repair. I took my VW Porsche powered MicroBus out of storage and used it for a year before it was crushed by my (ex)wife after she thought I was cheating on her. I wasn't and she bought me a restored Volvo 544 with a B16 engine as a made-up gift. At times I waffle as to which one I would want back if I could only choose one of them. I think a good 544 might be the cheapest one to buy today.

Hard to do a consistent "hot" valve adjustment since by the time you get to the last one it's a whole lot cooler than the 1st one you did. The valve train wouldn't change temp during a "cold" adjustment unless you got really warm hands.

ZCCA has two classes for their "Gold" awards, stock and everything else, with stock being the hardest to achieve since not only does your Z have to be pristine in appearance, it also has to be completely stock or you lose points. Cleanliness is next to winning in all the other classes (street mod, Nissan mod, ultra mod and daily driver). Doesn't make a difference if you have a purple painted engine block with yellow stripes, if it's clean and undamaged judges can't deduct points. Now paint drips, orange peel, missed spots, those can cost you points. You might want to reconsider or maybe just go out and flog the thing....

Jerry - given both the rarity and price do you plan on putting some serious miles on these calipers? I guess the better question would be will you drive your Z less if you install them? I was told that a Toyota SW could be massaged, by that I mean machined, to look very much like an FIA caliper. Vintage racers might have done this. You could swap the real ones in for a show, etc.

My grandmother, to whom I owe my right foot driving style, believed that wrestling wasn't staged (this is late 1950s) and was thrown out of the local arena after hitting one of the pro-wrestlers over the head with a folding chair when he landed in the front row. I can remember his exact words as he looked at his hand with a small amount of blood on it - "Lady! Don't you know this isn't real!!". Those sales tips are ancient and at the same time correct, at least for the period in question. There was no formal training for car salesmen back then just what worked yesterday just might work today.

Just being able to see the driver's helmet (and not their face) how could you determine if it was Bob or Paul driving?

How could I have missed moi? Indeed, how could I. Sorry. My best defense is that my vision gets tunnel-like with a migraine headache. Jason, my recommendation is to get an FSM, read it and everything else you can find here and on other sites and then come back with the things you can't figure out. Good luck.

Might I say, I have nothing to add or for that matter had any useful information to provide to start with, but wanted to commend SteveJ, the Captain and our new member Jason for showing why this is a great forum. A request for help written in a manner understandable to others and then really great replies that even I understood that provided a workable answer. (Insert the sound of two hands clapping) It's been a horrible day and this cheered me up.

TrackR is a total waste of money.....I am looking at Tile right now.

I have used 100, 50, 30 and 10mm for my 44mm Mikunis with the 50 and 30s giving the best overall power with an ample amount of space for the filter depending on the engine (L24 & L28 with different heads and cams)

Line bore (crank), machine the deck, ARP main bolts and verify piston to wall gap (the wrong assumption regarding expansion caused us a set of new in the box custom pistons that were from the parts we got from BSR) I want to say most but will settle for many L-series engine don't make peak HP or torque over 7000rpm so there is no reason to wind out your new engine to redline with every shift.

Along with a large pile of parts from the 240/280 (Vin - 00008 )BSR race car was a box of files and notebooks (dyno sheets, shop and track notes, etc.) and one roll of undeveloped B&W 35mm film. I was very surprised and pleased to see what was on that roll. To my knowledge there isn't anything else like it on the web to show how the cars were built to survive their time on the track. Given that Scotty Sharp drove that car and won against purpose built tube frame cars into the 1990s is proof enough for me that what they did was worth every extra pound added to the chassis.

I am guessing click bait but I really like the photos.

Carl - I miss stroked.... Alan still has #6 and Dave Stone has #8 which he bought a few years ago and had it repainted. If you get a chance look at the before and after pics. I'm still trying to get an answer as to the "crusher" heading and it's meaning.

Crusher? Two Zs with dented roofs caused by models?? Bob got the 00006 car which now is owned by Dave Stone in CA.

Race car has no return line but the street Z has one since it can sit in traffic for longer than I want it to.

As noted they're starting points and you as the driver need to provide input after the suspension has been set. Have an alignment shop dial in the settings, drive it and tell them what the car did or didn't do. If you can't feel any differences then you might want someone else to drive the car in a controlled manner and get feedback from them, make changes and see how it feels to you.

Jeff - here's a picture of the cockpit end showing what they used to adjust the airflow direction. Note the use of black electrical tape to tighten the end of the tube. The tape on mine is as old as whenever it was put on X years ago. All I did was clean it and apply some matt black paint to the vent itself. You can see the tape clearly on the PLN waiting photo.

Used on the BSR 610 as well -

That's the Bud 280Z air vent attached to my 240 BSR replica (with parts from the BSR 240Z) at the 2016 VRG event at the Dominion track. There's a screen to prevent debris (before the screen was put in a bee) and it really does provide cool air even when the air temps are over 90 degrees. The Bud Z and the BSR GTU cars didn't have a door mirror but I like knowing were other folks are. The original window net will be installed next week after the Wilwood pedals installation is completed.

PLN waiting.....

The 77 280Z driven by Posey -