gnosez

As Mr. Hendrix asked "are you experienced" I know I am. In my experience they don't so much as melt but rather are consumed (read eaten) by an angry beast looking for fuel. Metal can serve as a fuel for just a limited amount of time before really bad things happen. I have twin pumps that are plumbed to separate duckbill pickups in the left and right corners of the fuel cell which in turn connect to the filter and then to the engine bay (second filter). If one pump fails, the other will get me through unless I lose it on a very banked NASCAR track (an unlikely event). Holley makes a flat screen pillow pickup that covers most of the bottom of a cell. When it's time to replace the foam/bladder I might go in that direction.

I have run a concentric aluminum bushing and drilled a hole for a zerk fitting on the race car for four years. I really like the look of those bushings.

I have the beginning of a plan and I would need someone that speaks "local". This gentleman is a true hoarder and the odds of breaking the bonds of his ownership are against us. More later....

I have build three R180s in the last year, two for my car and one for a friend. Once you have a diff (R180 or 200) in the ratio that works for your set-up go buy a Quaife or an OBX, new bearings and seals. The last two items you're going to buy anyway with whatever diff you get unless it was recently rebuilt. Might I suggest that since you are new to all this that you spend time reading and thinking about what you want your Z to be when it is done (they are actually never done but assume they are for now) and then decide how you are going to pay for all this.

I know of a gentleman who has over 50 Zs just sitting outside rotting away. There are 3 large building stuffed with parts and a dozen or so running cars parked on asphalt. I asked if he had any ZX 5-spds - "nope". I counted 12 cars with them. How about gas tanks? "nope". There was a pile over 20 feet high behind one of the buildings. How about side marker lights? "nope". We were standing next to a 5-gal bucket filled with them. One of the cars was a ZXR. A small tree was growing out of the hatch. No doubt all of this treasure will be lost to the Z community.

truth...

my pile of parts is waiting for the day I retire when there will be time to take apart, clean, fix and organize it all

I have taken apart 7 or so parts cars, some so rusty that they crumbled into pieces as I wrenched on them. Add buying other folks left over stuff with a job that takes me up and down the east coast and beyond (think of all those junkyards).... I did a riff at one of the ZCONs (a place you go to get your Z fix) along the lines of: You know you're a Z nut when you start storing parts under the bed and your wife thinks that smell is coming from you. You start out fixing some small rust spot and 3 hours later your car has been stripped to the shell, the engine is out and you're calling Rebello. You can tell the year of a Z by the VIN without looking it up, list which diff came in which Z from 1970 to 1996 and can match each paint job to its' code number. When you need a part you buy more than one.

Then there's my house...

You call that hoarding?

I have the following new parts for sale. Prices include shipping to the lower 48 States. Email works better as I don't always have access to the website during the day. john@baddogparts.com 1) Performance 65mm TB with tube and K&N filter (MSA 11-3021 & 11-2921 $490) asking $400. 2) 280Z rebuilt MAF (Fuel Injection Corp 415001 $265) asking $215 3) 1972-83 fan clutch (MSA 16-7031 $93) asking $75 4) EBC front pads (V6 Toyo DP4807R $145) asking $110

Don't have the 79-80 version. Sorry.

I will look tomorrow when I am back home and post the outcome of said search....

I might have them but need a picture to use to verify

3D printer material

As a sometime rallye navigator in any number of British sport cars I can attest to the usefulness of this product. For those who sail it like hiking out...

A.K.A. Bob Sharp.... You can see folks watching/looking at Paul.

I got a complete set of 240 struts that I want to believe were shorter but had not been cut and welded, from a now retired racer along with a pile of other parts. Two of the shocks are stuck in the tubes and I had put them aside as I had no immediate need for them. Now I'm interested enough to take another look at them.

I might have a set (F/R) of the comp struts. If you can post the measurements I will check them when I get back home.

If you have removed the old bushing and take out the metal by mistake you can always put a shim in. That bar is not trash. Remember that the 240 and 280 bars fit differently (in front or between) the diff/suspension bracket support legs. That is enough room to make the holes line up or in your case not line up. I ended up making a note to myself where the bar goes (in front or behind) and have marked the bars accordingly, as I swap out diffs for different tracks (R180 - 4:11, 4:38, 190 - 4:44, 200 - 3:90). It would be nice if I had all the ratios in one type of diff.

I work out with a round plate weight that I hold out in front of me at the same position (elbows bent) and turn it the same way one uses the steering wheel. While not as bad as spending time in a kart, a 3 day vintage event with 3-4 sessions a day on race slicks and my shoulders are burning. I've seen a set-up that uses a rope and you can add/subtract the weight used. Nice but I can sit and watch TV with just a plate. You can start with an steering wheel.

The R180 bar mounts in the opposite direction from the R200 (the way the bar bends) so the alignment would be off whether you drill out the diff bolt holes. A quick look at FSM version for the 240 and 280 diff and rear suspension diagram would show how they line up differently. Sorry you had to spend the extra and I'm sure frustrating time only to find it wasn't anything you did wrong.

Once the weather improves enough for our local Zs and ZXs to come out of winter hibernation the plan is to get the measurements completed for the 280ZX and Z31 300ZX rails.

If you can either post a picture of the rails or take some rough measurements we should be able to come up with a fix for you. Start at the tail end of the rail and measure the length up to the front of the firewall (as it slopes upward). Exact is not necessary just yet. The 2+2s made from 74 through 76 had the coupe frame rails (think about that for a moment) and at some point in 77 they made them longer on I believe the passenger side. I have not seen that many later 2+2s and those that I have seen had already by repaired by someone fabbing up something. I'm sure there were OEM replacement rails available back in the day but I have never seen any for sale.

Bad Dog Parts began selling frame rails to Z owners who wanted something stronger to handle the added stress of more HP, autocrossing or track events. The 2016 father-son 240Z team that won their class in the grueling Beijing to Paris race did so with a set of front and optional rears installed by the late John Coffey, Stacey Davis on GearZ TV installed our 280 rails because he wanted the extra strength to handle the supercharged Ford V-8 he was installing and hundreds of Z owners from Alaska to Florida, Sweden to New Zealand, Canada to Norway and Australia to England now run on Bad Dog Parts. So on a long drive last week I began to wonder just how many sets of rails we’ve sold since 2003 and was surprised to learn that Bad Dog Parts is now just thirty (30) sets of 240/260/280 frame rails shy of 2000 sold. To help us get to the 2000 set milestone we decided to offer everyone a discount and two lucky Z owners an opportunity to get Bad Dog Parts for free. Starting February 16th, both our 240/260 frame rails and 280 rails will be discounted 10% off the current selling price of $230 and $244, respectively. The cost for a single 240/260 or 280 rail is half the prices shown above minus the 10% discount. In addition, the set of optional 240 rears made for those of you who have added more HP, drive your Z real hard or just want a stronger chassis will also be discounted 10% . All of our produced parts costs include shipping within the lower 48 States. For those of you outside of the lower 48, we will get a shipping quote and add just the difference between a delivery in the lower 48 to one say in Canada, Germany or Australia, etc. and email you the added amount for your approval before shipping. Bad Dog will keep these prices in place until the 30th set (or 60th individual frame rail piece) is sold. So what about getting my parts for free ? There’s two ways that will happen. As each order comes in they will get a random number assigned from 1 to 60 with folks who order a set getting two numbers. Once all 30 sets are sold a number will be selected at an upcoming Z Car Club of New England gathering and the person with the winning number will have the cost of their frame rails refunded. The second way is when the 60th individual frame rail piece has been sold and the person who placed that order will get a refund back from Bad Dog just like the random number winner but with an added incentive. If say the person who ordered that 60th piece also ordered a set of seat brackets, optional rears, sway bar and jack plates, then the entire cost of that order will be refunded. The total for that order with both the discount and shipping comes to $673 (240 fronts & rear rails - $333, seat brackets -$250, sway bar plates-$35 and single point jack plates- $55). Two people will get free Bad Dog parts and the odds aren’t anything like the lottery where it’s several million to one. You needed the frame rails anyway so why not take a chance on getting them for free. I guess the worst case is that your Z would now be sporting new frame rails. And to all the folks who were order #54 or #1489 and made this possible, we at Bad Dog Parts truly appreciate your patronage and support. Thank-you.