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This is too funny. I purchased my 240Z about three years ago and drove it 500 miles to get it home. The brakes were stiff and I accounted that to the old system. Having driven older trucks and cars I am accustom to hard brakes. Well, I almost immediately put the car on jack stands to replace the struts and springs and do some modifications including upgraded brakes. I installed the 15/16 280Zx MC, vented discs/280Z calipers up front and solid discs/240SX calipers out back. Braking improved but pedal pressure was still hard and stiff. I decided to upgrade to the 280Z booster. I 'thought' I percieved better braking but it was still very stiff and hard. Mind you, I only drive this car about 30 miles a month depending on the weather (NO rain). The other day I had the chance to drive a friend's 280Z. This was the only other Z I've ever driven. The difference in compliance and, especially braking, was hugh. The series I and II 240Z's are definately true sports cars. I drove home convinced that something had to be wrong. My friend, Wayne, suggested I look at the vacuum check valve to be sure it wasn't installed wrong. Two days past and I finally got around to it. Sure enough, the valve was backwards from the P.O. and I never checked it out. A quick down the road at speed and I applied the brakes. Holy crap! I almost threw myself into the dash! The damn car nearly stopped in it's own length. It cracks me up that something so simple had eluded me for months on end. Now I wonder how well the original brakes would have performed if that check valve had been installed correctly the first time.

It goes into the tank and is welded/brazed in place. You'll need to remove the tank to make a proper repair.

Sadly, you can't sell your stuff off for a ridiculous price in hopes of hiding it. Once a divorce has entered legal proceedings all ownings are part of the impeding decree. If you try to sell an item for less than it's true value then the court can make YOU cough up the difference between that value and the selling price. Been there........

Search each criteria and you'll find your answers. The L6 blocks are the same externally so they interchange readily. The 280ZX is the better tranny if only because the reverse and overdrive gears are independent. You'll need all the pieces flywheel(?), clutch, pressure plate, throwout fork, clutch MC, throwout bearing from the donor 5-speed to make the conversion easy on you. I speak for the driveshaft but that's easy to resolve too. I'm sure I've missed something. Driveline equals engine, tranny, driveshaft, rearend, axles and wheels.

I'd like to use readily available pistons too. Most strokers are punching out the blocks to 89mm so a stock nissan piston can be used. All of the c/r's I mentioned were based on pistons with ) deck height. I don't need a 3.1 or 3.2. Pushing the block to it's outer cylinder wall limits doesn't give me a fuzzy feeling. If Red Dog is considering a stroker I would hope he would study up on the subject or already have a basic understanding of the mechanics involved. Sorry if I came across brash. I've seen a lot of people using the Lengine program which not comparable to the OZdat utility.

KTM, take a deep breath and relax. First of all, we're talking about the possibility of dropping a LD28 crank into a L24 block. It is very doable. The choice to do so is in the hands of the Z owner. It would be an interesting build. Now for some real facts, I could put that crank into that block using 240Z rods and an E88 head with 44.7 cc chambers(for example here). Use a stock gasket of 1.2 AND, most importantly, CUSTOM pistons. A set of 84mm slugs with a compression height of 33.35mm and -10.9 cc dishes would yield a respectable 8.4 c/r and 2.76 liters. How about a P90 and flat tops at 8.615 c/r? How about a N47 and -5 cc dishes yielding 9.155 c/r? We're talking ideas and possibilities. One man's ceiling is another man's floor. While you're calculating try using this engine program which allows a lot more flexibility. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Oh yeah, a E31 with -10.5 dishes will get you 8.7 c/r...................

I wouldn't discount the L24 block for these reasons. I would look to the L28 block for strength when compared to the L24 block though. The E31 is a great head but has small valves. The E88 or a later head would be more viable. The 240Z rod provides less rod angle and sustained piston hang at TDC. Lastly, most everyone wants to use a readily available piston. While that is a reasonable desire it may not acheive a harmonious balance. That is why I will have custom 86mm pistons with 40mm compression height made for my 2.9 stroker.

You can stroke the 2.4 it you want to. The dimensions are the same from L24 to L28. Most do use the later blocks, N42 or F54, because they offer stiffing between cylinders. I have everything but pistons to build a stroker. I decided to go with the LD28 block because I can fit L20b rods (145.9mm) into it. It isn't a cut and paste project but is very doable. Instead of punching out the cylinders to fit alternate OEM pistons (89mm) I am going to have some made. The cost isn't effective but I can keep the bore smaller achieving a 2.9 liter. This will allow another rebuild and eliminate thin cylinders walls sometimes created in excessive overbore. That amounts to reliability. With an Eaton M62 supercharger it should run it's arse off in my little 240Z.

There is extensive talk of the LD28 crank over at www.hybridz.org. Just do a search over there on diesel crankshaft or LD28. I'm building a 2.9 using a LD28 block and crankshaft, L20b connecting rods, and custom pistons.

I have an interest in your guitar. Can you send me photos to mark4460@cox.net?

Everyone is inspiring you. I too have too many responsibilities and projects. As long as the Z isn't in the way just let it sit. You'll come back to it when time allows. Don't let it go. My Z sat on jackstands for nearly a year before I had the motivation to complete the suspension, brakes, etc. I have a crazy hybrid Land Rover that sat for two years before I got back to it. Room is at a premium but I refuse to give up the time, toil and money I've invested. Hang in there. Keep your priorities in order and it will work out.

NEVER run fuel lines into the cabin of your car...NEVER EVER. Can you say crematorium? If a leak developed you'd by shocked (and probably dead) by the volume of fuel a simple 5 psi pump can put out in short order. The idea of having someone riding in the engine compartment at speed is more sane. Did you perform a tune-up on this engine (wires, plugs, etc.)? Had you performed any mods or service when the problem materialized? Did you clean out the 'last chance' filter where the fuel line attaches to the carbs? Did you replace the old fuel line from the fuel rail to the carbs? Are you using a fuel rail or just jumping fuel lines from pump to carb to carb? I'm assuming that when you stop the car car that the rear carb is not visually providing fuel. It sounds like a starvation (possible fuel filter) or a vapor lock issue to me. Can you put some pictures up so we can see how everything is installed?

You can contact the Smokey Mountain Z Club or call/visit Roger over at The Z Barn. He's right there in your immediate area. Either choice will put you in touch with a bunch of knowledgable guys and very likely an assist to maintain what you have purchased.

They do pop on and off. You have to install the cup over the ball at a slight angle for the internal spring clip. Also, there's a retainer pin to ensure they don't come loose until you want them too.The ball is 8mm diameter (I believe) which is the same as the Nissan piece.

You can also buy high quality all-metal links at www.piercemanifolds.com. That is what I've used at the pedal and carbs. A lokar cable operates the rest of it.

You can get it repaired and replated for around $60 plus mailing charges at a plating company near me. While that may sound kinda expensive consider it is NLA and you typically can't find used in good conditon. If everything else is really nice then why skimp here? It all depends on what you're looking for in the finished product.

Used good cylinder heads are fairly plentiful and cheap. What head is on your engine? You can find the casting number just below the #2 spark plug. It will be something like N47, P79, etc. With info you can start looking for another head. I'b bet the cost of repairing the existing head would be comparable to another good unit. Besides, eBay there are several Z sites where you can post for spare parts (www.zcar.com, www.hybridz.org, www.got-z.com, www.zbarn.com, etc....).

The unisyn works fine at idle and cruising rpms. The button in the center is rotated in or out to allow for as little/much airflow as needed for adjustment at any rpm.

You need to swap over the pieces from your booster. I did the same thing when I swapped in a 280Z booster. There is only the jam nut, clevis and clevis pin. The threaded rod out of the booster should be the same size.

It's always buyer beware (read that as knowledgable and asking the right questions) but I see these on eBay quite often. You should be able to pick up the whole shabang for about $35.00 I'm guessing. That's a lot to pay for just a bolt though. You might also look at lawn mower repair or bicycle shops. Don't go into a Harley dealer though. They only know their products through the year and model based on my experience locally. There are a multitude of used Z part suppliers out there too. I dealt with Roger at the Z barn in Tennessee and was well pleased.

I powdercoated mine in mirror black along with the intake manifolds and valve cover. I like it...

First thing that comes to mind is the float is set too high allowing fuel to pour out at the nozzle. It could be trash in the needle seat not allowing the float to actually cutoff fuel flow from the pump. This is assuming that all was good at some point and this just started????

I like the look of the cleaned up balance tube too. Maybe I'll work on polishing up my tube a bit more. The downside is the dashpot did help to reduce excess emissions and stench by leaning out the engine during deceleration. I moved a true euro linkage bracket over to my tube for a solenoid install to kick up the idle for a/c operation when the time comes. Why the european market didn't require this I just don't know. Probably because there were fewer cars in general compared to the US so pollution was not a high priority.

I've never seen such a beast. My immediate thoughts are for you to have the black abs pieces chrome plated. It wont be cheap but it may be your only alternative over black or paint.