Bambikiller240

Doesn't your engine have "eye" brackets (one near the fuel pump, and one on the last exhaust manifold mount bolt) to lift the engine? I'm not sure about jacking up, or lifting from the bell housing. I (myself) would be worried about that. Of course, I worry about a lot of things. Lifting by camshaft sounds like a worse idea.

Put me on the side that doen't like this air damn.

Good ones!

Your welcome. If you can get a vacuum to the engine, hold the business end of the vac near the plugged hole with one hand, and pick at the plug material with a nail, or other utensil. Anything that comes loose will get sucked into the vac instead of falling into the block. It could be that someone put a "Stop-leak" chemical in the cooling system and it gunked up that hole, or maybe the motor sat for a while and sediment collected there. Anyway, I would definitely suggest clearing it before assembly.

It isn't factory, that's a fact. Looks or not. Guaranteed! It is an add-on panel to engage either a "dealer installed" (NON-FACTORY) A/C; or an aftermarket A/C. Dealers installed A/C packages on many cars, since the factory did not offer A/C on 240Z's, and to pad the prices that they could demand for a car.

I will be there. Going with member "waynekarnes" and his son. We'll be there in the morning, but not staying all day. John Morton will be there at some point, but Mr. K is no longer slated to be there.

Inf; here is a picture of one of my spare L24 blocks. I've labeled most of the holes found in the area of your picture. The hole you marked with a green arrow is a water jacket hole. It should be open (not plugged).

I have heard this also, but on my car it turned out to be water that was somehow flowing up under the door weatherseal, down the inner rocker panel and pooling in the driverside floorpan. I stripped out the driverseat, carpet and padding and the vinyl that covers the inside of the rocker panel and watched as the car sat with a sprinkler soaking it like a rainstorm. Unforunately this was discovered after the floorpan needed repairs. BTW, those floor mats look exactly like a set I had back in the late 70's. They looked great in a 110 or 918 painted Z.

A "RUST-FREE CA 72 240Z"..............with a "Seattle" Title, sold out of "Toronto, Ontario, Canada " "Rust Free", but "All Used Cars Have Surface Rust On Here & There." Nothing like making a statement and sticking to it! I may have been born in the morning, but it wasn't THIS morning!

Sounds like "Car Porn".

This is great information, Mike. Thanks for posting it! Information like this gets me (and others) much further down the road on this type of project. Thanks for taking the time to put it all together and post it.:classic: I noticed that Holley doesn't show a relay in the circuit to power the Fuel pump, does anyone know how to modify the circuit shown in the schematic to incorporate a relay to protect our fragile 30 year old wiring?

.

It is for a dealer installed, or aftermarket air conditioning system. Definitely not a "factory" piece.

Which is currently not accessable.

I believe that it is a Water passage. I looked at a spare cylinder head that I have here, and observed that the hole in the cylinder head that would be directly above that hole in the block seems to be a water passage. I can shine a light in one hole and can see the light in the next hole. I don't think there are any "useless" holes in the mating surface of the block/head. **There is a hole in the top of the block that appears to be plugged up, except for a small pin hole in the center, but it isn't the one your arrow points to.

My understanding is that the wires are there, but not connected to anything (either pump on one end , or power on the other end). You'll need to fish around under the center of the dash for the other end of those wires and connect them to a power source.

Now You Know

Hi All: Earlier this year Dave (V8-240Z) donated a Spindle Pin Removal Tool to be shared amoungst the ClassicZCar Club members. mperdue held the tool for a while and then passed it on to someone who needed to use it. Does anyone know who has the tool now? If it can be located, I'd like to arrange to borrow it for a few days. I have a few suspension pieces I need to separate. Please reply here, or send me a PM, or Email. Thanks! Carl

About 2 1/2 years ago they indicated that they would do almost any dash, including an early Z. $800 + s/h was the quote they gave me. Try the "Contact Us" link at the top of their webpage to inquire.

I haven't used either dash place, but Just Dashes charges an LOT more $$ than Dashboard Restorations. Last price I saw ws $800 from Just Dashes v.s. $550 from D. Resto.

I believe that there are only 2 manufacturers of the Dash Caps, sold by many distributors. Quality does seem to vary, plus the patience and skill of the installer (who generally must trim it to fit) vary as well. The Half Caps generally look bad because "anyone" can see where they stop and the original dash begins. I have seen some "Full Caps" that were very acceptable (to me, for the $$) which were carefully installed. Regarding Gavins comment about the vinyl, I think he was refering to the Dashboard Resto folks who peel the vinyl/foam padding from your dash and work their magic on it and reinstall on the original dashboard metal frame. When you buy, or build a new dash you are getting (or making) a complete new frame, and covering. FWIW, the carbonfibre dash from PDK that I saw a couple years ago, was "hard" surfaced (i.e. not padded in anyway).

Correct, I was refering to Billy-Goat Clinton (perhaps, one of your former neighbors? ) Were you around AR when he was governor? Sorry for the confusion.

You can have yur original dash restored by Dashboard Restorations. Cost about $550 http://www.dashboardrestorations.com.au/ AFAIK, no company has produced a reproduction "stock" dash. These guys http://www.pdkfabrication.bravepages.com/Works.htm are working on a Fibreglass Dash.

! ! ! How did you learn the OZ slang for that statement? Ever live over there? Wonder if that could be emailed to Billy?