Bambikiller240

Andrew: The OEM VR on a 72 240Z would not have that inline fuze. A replacement VR that I bought on eBay (pic attached) has a similar label to the one in your picture, but no fuze. It is an OEM style VR that can be adjusted. If you want, I can take a pic of my original VR. I'm not sure there are any identifying marks/printing still visible after 32 years. Let me know.

Hi Rick: If the rails end about 2 feet before the end of the floorpan, then you have what we in the states would call an Early 260Z (one built on the 240Z chassis, rather than the 280Z chassis). I don't know if it makes your car more precious to other folks, but IMHO it would be more desirable, but then I'm a 240Z guy.

Well, the Konig's "fit", but are not 100% ideal in that -9 configuration. You won't get a 70 series tire in the wheelwell. You need to run 65 or 60 series tires to keep the tires off the fender lip. (from what I've been told by folks using them, mine are still in the boxes)

There goes another $4.00

Mike: Can you make the "thumbnails" (attachments) open in a new window automatically, like the old website did? That worked good because you could still read posts while the image attachment opened. Hyperlinks still do open in a new window, but attachments now open in same window.

Right. Back in the day, this was a common modification. You pulled the galley to get at the pipes, and marked them so you could then cut them short so they didn't extend further than flush to the inside surface of the manifold. I found a hardware store locally that has BSPT plugs, but I could not find one that would fit. Maybe they didn'nt carry the full line of sizes, but it looked pretty complete to me. Very frustrating.

and in my opinion many of those found on the internet are of inferior quality. I returned a 1-800-Radiator unit in 2001 because it was so poorly made. Spent $200 on a new core at a local shop with a 3 year warranty. Haven't had a single problem with it since then. Looks brand new inside and out.

Andrew: I've never heard of the "wax and propane torch method". Could you direct me to info on it, or post what you know? If you are willing to take the manifold off, you could have it hot tanked at a radiator or machine shop. Just a thought. Also, what did you use to plug the holes where the Air Galley was connected previously? IF you used plugs, can you tell us the exact size, & thread information on the plugs that you used. Thanks for any information you can provide on either of these matters. Carl

Well Said!!!!!!!!!

That was my understanding also from conversations with her. She did have "someone" who helped with packing, and she would send him/her to pull parts from the parts cars she owned, but Chloe is the heart & soul of MidwestZ.

Thank you, Chris. I appreciate the link. looks like an interesting site. i'll have to check it out in detail tonight. Thanks again

Chloe Zarte

GregP: If you are concerned about the money (understandable), I'd contact PayPal. I've had good luck with them getting my money back on two occasions (NOT from Chloe!).

Rick: Easiest way to tell is look under the car (below where you sit) at the frame rails. On 240Z shells the frame rails extend only about 1/2 way to the rear of the floor pan. On 280Z's the rail extends the full length of the floor pan.

Mike (& Gary): I already made a template for Mike and will be sending it out to him tomorrow.

If you don't need maximum performance, get KYB Gas struts. reasonable price, reasonable quality and performance.

Build the 72 to be your wild ride, sell the 70 to someone who will keep it stock, or restore it. There are so few 70's left, it would border on criminal to modify it as heavily as you plan. JMO

I think MidwestZ was her only job. She always answered the phone when I called, or returned my call almost immediately, I'd get emails throughout the day as well.

Yep, defintely missing. Correct. Only on the Passenger-side. Mainly used to access the fuel filler hose connection at the gas tank. A appropriately sized piece of sheet metal can be shaped to fit as a replacement. Probably would need to drill new holes to mount it unless you can match to the old oles. The original is secured by 4 sheet metal screws. If want me to try to make a paper pattern from mine for you to try to make one, let me know. I'd be glad to do so.

Mike: If your car has undercoating, the inspection panel is sometimes hard to spot. If it's "missing" on your car, you'd see a big opening at the back of the wheelwell. I'll try to take a picture of mine to post later this evening.

Hi Wayne; Yeah, it was in 2002 that we discussed it. I seem to recall that it was determined that this was a 280Z chassis, but a search using "Evel Knievel", "Evel Eagle", or just "Knievel" turns up nothing. I missed the auction listing earlier this month.

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I agree with Mike. Prices for many/most collectables dropped like a rock when the economy fell in the toilet at the turn of the century. IMO they overpaid for it anyway. Wish I could find the thread where the auction for this beast was discussed last time it hit the market. Didn't sell then, doubt it'll sell this time either

I have seen people use liquid Chrome Polish (or "Brasso") and lots of Elbow Grease to buff up dull Tail Lights. I won't be the one to try sandpaper. Sounds like a recipe for disaster.

I believe that this car was on eBay about a year and a half ago, didn't sell then.