Bambikiller240

Hey Will: The first time I tried pulling spindle pins, I told myself that I was NOT going to mushroom the threads, I said this several times. And I listened to myself, right up until the point where I messed them all up. One does not know when to stop pounding (usually) until 2 or 3 strokes after one should have stopped. At least that's how it works in my shop. This time around, I accepted Gary's (beandip) gracious offer to lend his tool, and I couldn't be more pleased with his offer, or the results.

Then you are the one I should compliment. That tool worked soooo good. Certainly beats the heck out of the alternatives that I've used in the past!

Always such a gamble lending out tools to someone that hasn't earned the trust previously.

Will: Did you ever get anythng back on the registered mail that you sent to Chloe?

"CAN" make you wiser. Not everyone learns their lessons at the same rate, or ever. ( I have a neighbor that proves this!)

But you won't end up with a freshly, & completely rebuilt engine like Gary was talking about. Kind of comparing apples and oranges here (or apples and road apples) :tapemouth

My 72 has a redline of 7K, and it regularly sees 6K under my foot (even before the rebuild) but I do not go much higher, and it doesn't stay there long. The dynosheets I have seen for stock L24 engines indicate the peak HP and TORQUE are achieved near 5.5K RPM so there is not much to be gained above that figure.

General Lee? :stupid:

This is NOT true! 1. Smog equipment could have been removed by previous owners. 2. BOTH 72 and 73 engines had E88 cylinder heads. There are TWO different types of E88 cylinder heads. Can't tell them apart without pulling the head from the engine. 3. What RPM an engine makes peak HP at, has little to do with the "REDLINE" of the engine. Compare the actual serial number on the engine to the engine serial number listed on the chassis ID plate to determine if the engine is the original one.

That is similar to the one that beandip has (which I borrowed). His is a much improved tool that incorporates a ballbearing pack to reduce friction as the tool is used, and has a few other handy features. Now I wish I had taken detailed pics while I had it here. :stupid:

MSA in Orange, california sells what they claim is a reproduction of the stripe kit. I do not believe the one that was sold through Nissan is still available.

Try a search using "spindle pin puller" or "spindle pin tool". There are threads about it and one or two of them had pictures attached.

Probably a rip off auction. The winner will send a down payment by certified check, or wire tranfer, and that will be the last he sees/hears of his money, or the car/seller. Definitely a suspicious deal.

The joke was that you got shuffled to site, after site, after site, after site, after site.....................................and the blonde folks never quit trying to follow the links.

If it's metal, it's a factory item (added by dealers) that was made available in the USA beginning in 73. Actually, from what I have heard, it was one of the items (like the electric fuel pump, and insulation wraps for the fuel rail) that was used to address the fuel vapor lock, and other heat related issues encountered when the Flat Top carbs were used on 73 240Z's. Dealers would have been wise to use it with aftermarket A/C as well. If you choose not to use it, you can get a good price for it on eBay. I don't know about the $5 one that Bill mentioned, but either that one was somehow different, or all the bidders with knowledge of what it was were asleep at the keyboard. I've seen them go for around $75 on several occasions.

Before the Spindle Pin tool was created, I took my suspension to a machine shop, and with the use of a 30 ton press, and a torch, they were able to get the pin out. (think they cut off the threads I ruined first. $30 bucks each. Other people have said that they used a "Sawzall" to cut the pin on both sides(in between the Axle Housing and the A-arm), then pressed the remainder of the pin out of the Axle Housing. They were able to reuse the A-Arm

How well do you trust the shop? If you haven't seen their completed work before, and/or gotten recommendation from friends, and know what you are going to get; I'd consider telling them that you don't want then to cut corners on the work. If there are any questions as to what you expect, for them to contact you first. Don't assume anything.

Don't use the "Quick Reply" method of posting. Click "POST REPLY" button. On the "Reply" page enter you text, then scroll down to the "Manage Attachments" area. Click on Browse" and find the image you want on your computer. Select it, click "UPLOAD", close the attachment window, click the button to post your reply.

240Z's did not come from the factory with undercoating of any kind. Some were undercoated by dealers, or owners, and usually not painted. I would say the yellow paint over the undercoat is indicative of a prior repaint before the red was applied. In any case, if it were mine, I'd consider removing all of the undercoating ( yeah, I know it's a big PITA job, but....) to confirm the condition of the entire chassis and repair as needed. Might even POR15 the underside and only then would I consider reapplying an undercoat. Opinions will vary, but I would do it right, once; and not have to worry about it again.

Will: It was me who arranged to borrow one from another member. I can vouch for how useful that tool is. IMO you were fortunate to be able to get one out without using the tool. Using the the tool, you can easily remove a spindle pin (you screw the tool onto the pin, so I hope you haven't trashed both ends of it) without damage to the parts or your hands.

I think this is covered in previous threads. I can't find it, but you might try a search. I know it's in there somewhere.

So Charlie wasn't comming, he was just breathing hard. Glad you guys are OK. Anybody heard from SEEREX yet?

Think they are using 300ZX Rotors and Toyota Calipers. Unless I'm reading it wrong.

Did we get that model in the USA?

Here tis IRFANVIEW You can also do this in "MS Paint"