Bambikiller240

Part Numbers

They should still be available from Nissan, unless they went NLA very recently. When I got mine, they weren't too expensive either.

Vicky: You would still need a fan (in a street driven car, but a racecar might get away without one), but you could have an electric fan. The beneift (or at least one of them) of the electric water pump is that it wouldn't be driven by a "fan belt" which robs HP from the engine.

I bought a head gasket set from MSA and have not had any problems with any of the gaskets in it. Some people like Fel-Pro, others call them Fel-BLO and won't use them. Metal head gaskets are used in some engines to adjust the combustion chamber cc'ing and or valve to piston clearances. They are usually available in 1 mm and 2 mm thicknesses. They generall aren't used unless you done some serious modifications to the combustion chamber. Also, the are VERY expensive compared to regular head gaskets, however there is nothing "wrong" with them. If you have a cam from Dave Rebello, I'd call him and ask him what you need. You can also run your other questions by him.

Michael; I'm not sure I understand what you are referring to. I didn't even look at the 2bbl carb section, since we weren't discussing them here. I have no idea who manufactured them, or even which market(s) received them. I read and photgraphed only the first pages of the "SU Type" sections of the Fuel System part of the manual, where P/N's were mentioned.

http://zhome.com/History/zcarperf.html

Here' photo's of the data in 1972 L20A / L24 Engine FSM, and the 1973 Complete S30 FSM Interestingly, they refer to the Round Top AND also Flat Top carbs as "SU Type". No mention of Hitachi at all. Guess it would be unrealistic for Nissan to refer to parts by the individual manufacturer used in the outsourcing.

I believe that is because they are copies of the real "SU's" manufactured by Hitachi under license from SU. The Flat tops are a "Hitachi" design.

Nice to know the people in charge of prosecuting criminals in Fulton County, GA are as efficient and trustworthy as the ones in Alameda County, CA. Makes me feel real secure :stupid:

Most likely not a vapor lock problem if the car "has not run in a while". Vapor lock is generally caused by fuel in the lines or float bowls being over heated and vaporizing before reaching the carbs. Much more likely that old fuel in the tank (plus moisture in the tank causing RUST) has turned to jello and is plugging the lines, filter, and / or carbs.

Nothing, Bill. Just trying to encourage you to do something with all them thar cars.

Thanks for the info. My Fuel gauge has been screwy for over a year, just like you describe. Guess I have to try to find a gauge that works properly.

Bryan: I was referring to the post by ez73. My gauge barely reads full, but the tank will hold 15.9 gallons. (similar to your situation, I believe) Readings of 2/3 full could be caused by air trapped in the tank . IMO, it's worth looking into, especially since it costs nothing but time to examine the vent lines and connections. Your gauge (or even mine) reading "a tad under full" is quite a ways from ex73's gauge reading 2/3 when full, IMO.

Having 40 miles of gas when the tank reads empty is completely normal for a Z car. As for the gauge reading 2/3 when full, are you positive the tank is 100% full? Sometimes people (previous owners) will have disabled the fuel tank vent lines in such a way that air pockets are stuck in the tank, and the tank never gets it's full 15.9 gallons of fuel. Oh, you can see fuel in the filler tube, but there are air pockets (due to the vents being screwed up) that keep the tank from being completely filled.

Vic: How's he going to get it to ALASKA from "AR"kansas?

............except when 1/2 the state is being blown across the other half of the state. (and durring the extended clean-up after the "wind event".

failing that you must start selling parts off these vehicles to those who have running cars. No fair letting them rust to death in AR (no, that's not Arizona)

Wingnut: Your existing manifold will work just fine. In fact, many people think the N36 intake manifold (which should be the one you have) will flow better than the E88 manifold that came on 240Z's.

pronunciation don't matter in a phone book, it's spelling that counts

Hi Alex! Good to hear from you and glad the car is fixed. I do remember meeting your friend with the Plymouth Fury at the Rio Vista meet. That was a really fun day. I hope Dan will be able to have the show again. How is your car coming along? I'm looking forward to seeing it on the road (flashing past me no doubt) one of these days. Take care!

MI = Michigan MO = Misery (Missouri) :laugh:

Actually, I wasn't "guessing". Sorry if I cannot prove the answer as I do not remember (nor do I care to re-read them all for this purpose) which of the many manuals I have read that it was in. Now don't take this wrong, but IMO what should really matter is that it WAS installed by Nissan for a reason, not by some schlub who purchased it from Grand Auto. There's one way to 100% confirm the reason it's there. Leave it off and see how the steering rack fails.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8438&highlight=steering+rack+limit

Quote from the auction: "PRODUCT WILL BE SHIPPED TO THE WINNING BIDDER AT HIS EXPENSE OF $100 SHIPPING WITHIN 2 WEEKS OF RECIEVED PAYMENT." :stupid: