Bambikiller240

Auction for Burt's car ended. No Sale. High bid was $17.1K Seems every auction, the final bid is lower than the previous auction. If Burts car only draws $17K, how can the value of other car be $19K???? IMO it can't be justified.

Bob: My belief from the 2 letters I've gotten from the CA DMV (re 2 different vehicles) is that they do assume that if the vehicle is old, then it may be a "gross polluter" and should be removed from the roads. Both letters had a sentence appologizing if your vehicle was a classic, antique, or otherwise valuable.

The state buys them from owners for $500 IF they passed their last Smog Check (even if that was 2 years ago). Wonder how bad of shape it is in?

Attention tfm101: Drop the Rock and step away from the Crack Pipe! What you have in that field is a basic, standard P.O.S. You'll hava a hard time finding a charity that will come out and drag it away. PS Shoulda fixed that fuel pump 13 years ago.

Why do people buy/value a baseball that some steriod packed guy whacked into the stands for his "# xxxxx" home run? Can anyone identify it from any other basball? Does it look different, feel different, etc????? Does it matter? Only to those erecting a shrine (or a museum). BTW, I worked at a Plymouth dealership while in High School and got to drive many of the new cars (briefly) of the 1967 to 1971 era and the 440 Cuda's were incredible power monsters. The AAR's and 340 - 6 Pack's were big fun to drive also.

The BIN price is outrageous! Chloe was selling them for under $150.

Hard to estimate worth even with pictures, but without pictures it's nearly impossible. IMO, $3K sounds high,and your estimate on repair costs sounds low. JMO.

Datsun/Nissan OEM cams for ALL North American Market 240Z's require the cam oiler bar. There are 2 different E88 heads, The Early E88 has the same combustion chamber design as the E31. The late E88 head has a lower compression design. As stated earlier, IF you have had work done to the head currently on your car, I'd keep it. However, if you haven't had work done, I'd consider changing it to the E31 (or the Early E88) at some convenient time. FWIW, the FSM's indicates: 72 240Z - 9.0 : 1 Compression Ratio 73 240Z - 8.8 : 1 " "

I have been getting the notifications, but many of them are late. Like a day or two late. The 10 charector requirement for posts has been in effect since the site meltdown in July.

Well, the obvious is the solid mount (spherical bearings) instead of bushings. Track width?

Adjustable for camber, caster, toe

Yeah, I realized that at the end of my post. I found the info below on the www.Zhome.com website. Didn't find a reference to 5.5" wheels 4.5J-14 steel wheels with 175 SR 14 tires on first Z's brought to USA, then Starting with VIN HLS30 046000 (mfg 10/71) 5 Inch Wide Wheels were made Standard

So you didn't buy it, but are going to work on it?

We've been doing this for years. No need to go to a shop for it to be done. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10538 The two wires for the pertronix ignitor are easily routed along the original wires and hidden. Much less obvious than a Crane (POS) system, or the ZX Upgrade Dist.

OEM Steel Wheels or Mags? If Mags, are they the correct offset? On my car I can use 195/70 X 14 tires, or 205/60 X 14's. If I use 205/70 X 14 tires they rub the rear fenders a bit. Your mileage may vary. PS, you might try a search of the site. I believe that OEM steel wheels were 5" wide, but I'm not positive. It has been discussed befroe though.

Yep, Loop Pile is the original. Guess that '71 isn't completely original. Not uncommon.

Air pressure would be my first suggestion to try to clear the lines, but that won't get the crud out of the tank (where it came from)or keep it from plugging things up again. Only way i know to remedy the situation is to remove the tank and have it cleaned, repaired and sealed. While it's out you can flush the lines with solvent, or gas, and more air. Change filters too. If you can't get air through the lines, it becomes more difficult. May have to try to run a wire through the lines to break up clogs, or replace the lines. Hopefully it wouldn't come to this. Good Luck

My new "Nissan OEM Rebuilt" Distributor has at least 1/4" to 5/16" of movement in the Vac Advance. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=108599&posted=1#post108599

FWIW, the missing screw doesn't have anything to do with setting the fuel mixture, it's related to balancing the operation of one carb against the operation of the other carb.

, I wonder what else is missing. Why buy new plugs? You can't clean the ones you have?

Carb adjust could very well be part of it, but why would you want to mess with the carbs before making sure that they weren't going to get screwed up again by old jellied fuel and crud from the tank? Step, by step. It's highly unlikely that there is just one problem needing to be addressed. After confirming that the fuel supply is good (volume and clean) I'd check the filters at the carbs first, the one on the passengerside second (I'd cut it open and examine it) You can get a new Fram #G3359 fuel filter for about $4 almost anywhere. Do (or have it done) a complete tune-up on the engine and carbs. I wouldn't suggest driving the car with an alternate, 1 gal can of fuel. Getting a car that has sat for 5 years to operate safely and properly isn't a matter of simply changing filters and driving away. You will likely have several issues resulting from it sitting idle for such a long time to deal with in the near future. Brakes, cooling system, fuel tank are just a few of the possible[/] problem areas you may need to address. Do yourself a favor and check (or have them checked) the rear brakes (cylinders) for safe abd proper operation. They often go bad when a car sits for a long time. You don't want to find they are bad at the moment you need them the most.

I checked the website and TiVo, and the only showing is 11/30

, thats what I thought. You could have 3 gallons of gas in there. Even if it was 1/2 gallon (hint, it likely wouldn't even start with 1/2 gallon in the tank), how much crap do you think it takes to plug things up?

Those are defintely "Precision Replacement Parts" plastic bags. Nissan weatherstrips for 240Z DO NOT (did not) come with the welting. Welting was a completely different and separate part number. I strongly doubt (can't prove it) that Precision was the O.E. supplier to Nissan, and even if they were, (long ago) their current product is NOT the same. The only place I've heard of "BAD-MFG" is on eBay. Some people like them, Some hate them. I bought OEM (at a price of significantly less than the $220 quoted) because I wasn't interested in slamming my doors for any length of time just to get the seals to fit properly.

1 question, how do you arrive at a estimate of fuel in the tank? How much of that old gas was jelly and rust, crud, etc (that could now be plugging your fuel lines and filter? In addition to the filter on the passenger-side engine bay, there are filters in the (both) inlet fitttings at your carb float bowls. Setting points is pretty basic stuff, if you have a dwell meter, and timing light. Any shop manual (Factory, Haynes, Chiltons, etc) should have it. It's a bit difficult to describe briefly in a forum.