Bambikiller240

....like we need a bullet hole in our collective forehead.

My interpretation is $xxx.xx or best offer PERIOD In other words whatever he can get. Most buyers I run into will state this type of thing and entertain offers for a period of time, and the highest offer gets it. Usually it will end up being below the price stated, but really, do you think he would turn down a higher offer?

It's not an Anniversary Edition either. Sounds like a candidate for the parts that guy who wanted to put a 240Z front clip on his ZX "SHOULD" be looking for instead. The seller sounds like a nice person who has been fed a truckload of B.S. about this car by someone.(her son who dumped it in her yard and split)

They are not cheap to maintain, unless the car you buy has been completely rebuilt. In which case it won't be "cheap" to buy. It's doubtful your neighborhood mechanic is going to know much about them. Some parts are getting hard to find. Face it they are 30+year old cars. Things wear out. You don't say where you are located, but Bill is right; they rust badly if not cared for (like not being driven in snow and salted streets). If you need a daily driver and have little money you'd be better off with something else. Wait until you have more money, basic automotive skills to work on it yourself then get a Z as a 2nd car so you can work on it in your spare time ans still have something else to drive. Looks like Alfa caught up to me while I was editting Yeah right. IMO without a minimum of 2-3 YEARS of safe and varied driving and education on how to properly control (and regain control) of a car; it is EXTREMELY unlikely that you are even close to ready to handle a sports car. Your experience with the Eclipse is what confirms this.

Tell that to Burt Diamond. He's been trying to sell his car for about 6 months. The high bid gets LOWER with every auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4504443135&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT Then there is this recent auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4505345559&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

Glad your AOk. Struts don't cause a rear end to "lock up". You need to look into this and see what is broken back there. Differential, Axles, Rear Wheel Bearings, ........... Are you sure "brake are for losers"?

After 12 years sitting IMO it will need lots of work to be made safe to drive ANY distance. My advice would be to trailer it to where you live and rebuild it yourself over time. It's going to take a lot of time and money to be made safe and reliable, let alone rebuilt. Fuel system and brake system will likely need complete major overhaul to be reliable. Engine, Trans, Clutch.......who know what condition they might be in. Suspension / Steering bushings are most likely rotten and struts.......who knows. IMO safer to trailer it or have it transported up to you (and possibly cheaper to have work done in WA) JMO,

It's been way off for a long time. Months ago Mike indicated (when it was pointed out in the SHOUT box) that it tended to "drift" and he seemed to think people were complaining about something trival. (I'm not speaking for him, but thats the way I read his response)

Do you have pics of the clips or the lighter? I have some loose parts, maybe I have some gold I didn't know about? Seriously. It doesn't make sense to me. Burt's car (which includes hubcaps) draws ever lower bids ($17.1 this last time) and yet people will buy a set of 4 hub caps for more than 7% of that amount. Makes no sense to me.

So if I come up there will you and Gary take me to the good clubs? :cheeky: I've tried (in the beginning of my eBay ventures) to bid during the auction an it just seems to encourage others to try to "bump" my bid. I use the eBay tool bar and it prompts me 30 minutes before an auction I'm watching ends. I then synchronize an kitchen timer to the eBay clock and snipe. It works better for me, though I have had my ISP crap out in the last seconds of an auction. Talk about pissed!! Oh, Boy!

It seemed to "die" right at the time James (ZmeFly) "died" (he was on the committee) & then 2ManyZs started posting less & less (also on the committee).

I decide before the end of auction what the item is worth TO ME. I snipe at that price at the last possible moment and if someone else outbids me.......I don't care. I don't bid for fun, I bid for parts. I put dollar bills in "G" Strings for fun! :stupid:

Thanks Gary. Are these sold only in Motorcycle shops or do they have a website that you know of? I'm happy with my K&N filter (the brochure I had claimed it cleaned better when dirty than new), but it's always nice to have a second source for items.

I don't think it's that bad. I don't like the bumpers, or wing. Not too sure about the rear quarter panels either, but other than tha it's not too shabby. The 12/2003 car (Kevin's) is a bit more to my liking, but not every one likes the same thing. Hey, some people like Honey Bees.

hard to believe the supply is THAT short, or the demand THAT high, but then again P.T. Barnum, and Forrest Gump each have a quote that comes to mind in situations like this.

Well, the auction that started this thread is over. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4505345559&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT Bidding reached $12,600 and ended there. RESERVE NOT MET. NO SALE.

Brian, you can't attach pics to a PM. If the camshaft bearing journals (where the cam fits in the cam towers) are rusty, I think I'd look for better ones, if the cam shaft is rusty, I'd get a different cam. Phred may give different advice, if so take his advice over mine.

I'll laugh, good job or bad job. Now, I'll go back to fitting that 59 T'Bird Dashboard into my classsic 240Z.

Steel Wool and Elbow Grease? Hopefully no rust on the camshaft journals.

FSM = Factory Service Manual (for the year of your particular car) It is not available on-line. You would need to purchase a hard copy or a CD for your specific year.

I'm sure some car nut on eBay will buy it.

In checking the FSM, I find that it specifies BOTH WARM adjustment and COLD lash adjustment figures. It describes the recommended process as adjusting the valves COLD, then warming the engine and checking them HOT and adjusting to WARM spec as/if necessary COLD Spec .008 Intake COLD Spec .010 Exhaust WARM Spec. .010 Intake WARM Spec. .012 Exhaust Keep in mind that theses engines are indeed cold-blooded for the reasons mentioned in your post. Do you still have Intake Manifold/Carb Pre-Heating water system functioning on the car? How cold of temperatures does the car live in? Snow? Phoenix, AZ? Just my opinion, but I wouldn't adjust my valves as tight as your mech suggests.

My Motorsport Auto catalog lists this book. P/N #70-1053 The book is also listed in MSA's On-Line Store for $18.95 http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=70-1053&Category_Code=TB Since I just saved you $100, will you buy a copy for me?

The California State program limits payment to a maximum of $500 for a vehicle being purchased to be taken off the road. Maybe a local AQRB (Air Quality Resouce Board) matches the state program or something? It doesn't happen in Nor Cal, but who knows what goes on in So Cal..... They (CA STATE) have another program where if the car fails the Smog Check, you pay the first $100 to a State Certified Repair Center, and the state will pay up to the next $500 towards getting it repaired to the point it will pass the Smog Check. But you can't be in both programs. In order for the car owner to receive $500 to take the car off the road, it must have passed it's last Smog Check.

I don't know much about tire sizes, but how can a 175 tire be the same as a 195 ? ? ?