Bambikiller240

Gary: Just ask him for the VIN. Tell him you are interested and want to do a CARFAX check on it or that you want to confirm there are no leins against it. Of course, you and I know that you can't get a CARFAX for so old of a car, but he may not know.

Definitely not a Z mat. I've attached scans of a 1972 Nissan Accessories Brochure borrowed from Carl Beck's ZHome.com website

I agree. Leak could be (hope so) from the vent hose on that side of the tank. Better the leak be from the hose than a hole in the tank

I know nothing of the specifics regarding Weber Carbs making or not making these carbs, but.............. Don't believe everything stated by sellers on eBay, They have their own agenda (selling what they offer) Nowhere in the ad does it say that Weber has stopped production permanently, so even if they did in fact stop production it might be due to the strike you mentioned and if so it's likely they will be back in production when the strike is over. This is the sort of situation where the best information will come from Weber. They, or a distributor must have a website that can be contacted for reliable information. One point of clarification, they (the carbs in that auction) are NOT "genuine Webers". They are OER's version of the Weber carb, asnd they happen to use Weber jetting. No claim is made that any other "Weber" parts can be used in these carbs.

Mike sells the Z Car Parts Microfiche on CD-ROM. It has a lot of exploded views. Courtesy Nissan sells the actual Factory Service Manuals on CD-ROM Both are quite useful, IMO

That's what I was afraid of.

Does anyone know where you can get Bilstein struts for a 240Z? I've contacted many distrubutors and have been told that Bilstein struts for 240Z's are no longer made/sold. I had them on one of my previous 240Z's and absolutely LOVED them.

Ain't THAT the truth! All you need to do is meet one. :stupid:

......and they have been smoking too much.

Woa, easy now. My post wasn't directed at correcting you or anyone. No one mentioned Libre as being the name of the wheels commonly found on on 510's until I did. I was adding info to the thread. No one said you did or didn't know the answers. EDITTED due to misunderstanding..

I beleive the ones seen on 510's in the US are Libre's. They look similar to the ones Eric is asking about. but are obviously not exactly the same

It may have the same body, but (even in stock form) it's really quite different from the B210 we received in the USA. You guys should read the the previous thread about the 140Z http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10724&highlight=140z

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10724&highlight=140z

If you do use the Painless kit, don't just crimp the new terminals onto the wiring. SOLDER all of the connections and cover with shrink-tube insulation. It adds work to the installation, but crimped on terminals are trouble just waiting to happen. (again)

or Kano Labs "Kroil"

You must have a DSL line. With a Dial Up connection it's FRICKIN impossible!!

That makes sense to me.

Not sure it's necessary to replace the Driverside pan (judging from looking at the pictures, anyway), but then again if you're going for a restoration, and intend to keep and drive the car for a long time......structural repairs are probably one of the best places to invest your money, time, and effort.

There is plenty of "too thin" metal surrounding those holes. Too much for my car to have, and IMO too much for a "restoration". The floor pans tie the transmission tunnel to the rocker panels and give that part of the chassis a good portion of it's strength, and rigidity. The early cars (like ours) were pretty light-weight and not as strong as the later 240/260Z's. BTW, POR is good, and when used with their Power Mesh fabric (really just fibreglass mat) it is good for repairing PIN holes in floorpans, and it will protect "structurally sound metal from further rust, but I don't consider it to be appropriate for repairs of the magnitude needed on the passenger side photo's you posted. Just my opinion.

I simply put a clear hose on the speed bleeder, put the hose in a tall bottle. Loosen the speed bleeder, slide on my creeper over to the open drivers door and reach in with my hand to pump the brake pedal while looking under the car at the bottle. When I don't see bubbles, I slide back to the bottle, tighten the speed bleeder and move to the next corner of the car. I never get in the car, I just reach in with my hand. Actually, proper brakes when driving on the street should be at least as important, given the liability issues added to the issue of your (and any passengers) safety.

POR the swiss cheese (passenger-side) floor pan??? Not sure that is a good idea given the pictures of it.

Ah Ha, I read it wrong. Still glad there isn"t anythng ZX about Darius car. BTW, there doesn't seem to be any mention of his car or video's of it on the Darius website anymore. Too bad.

It probably was Darius that he's asking about, but Darius had a 280Z with the supercharged LT1 (I think it was an LT1) There wasn't anything ZX about it. (Thank GOD!)

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/news/archive/2005/01/05/sports1123EST0348.DTL