Bambikiller240

Then why ask the above question!?

Boy, you've missed a lot. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14712&highlight=images :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth

You'll need a spring compressor to dis-assemble the strut/spring assembly. It is not a terribly difficult job for someone with experience, but if you haven't worked on a car in 20 years, it will probably take much longer than if you had worked on cars more recently. If you tackle the job, I'd suggest that having a Haynes, or other shop manual for your car available would make life easier for you.

No way to answer that question without knowing how competent you are in working on cars, what tools you have, what you consider a pain in the azz.

How bumpy was that road you were on when the lights went out? How fast were you going!? In addition to bad motor mounts being a cause, it could be caused by the fan clutch failing, or the water pump failing, or radiator not mounted securely

Eeeeewwww!!!!!!!!!!! :sick: :sick:

Well, I paid $250 USD about 4 years ago for a 3 row recore on my car. Radiator work was warrenteed for 2 years by the shop. It is still in excellent shape. OH, Aluminum radiators have horizontal tubes, rather than vertical tubes. Nothing wrong with that, but they are quite different from OEM.

Not usually. The one I saw a while back for "$200 something US dollars" also required a mounting kit as well. Then different hoses were required (or at least ONE different hose)

The best local radiator shop in your area. (not necessarily the biggest, but the BEST) Depending on what happened, they could repair or recore your radiator. You can buy radiators over the internet, but the ones I've seen have all been of inferior quality. Usually your local shop will warrentee whatever work they do for you. They are close by if needed. The internet seller may do this also, but you'll be fussing around shipping bad parts back to them and waiting for a replacement part. JMO

Is the motor operating at all, or trying to operate? Or is it simply DEAD? There are several things that could cause the wipers to not function: 1. Mechanical issues with the Wiper Pivots (seized), Operating Rods (disconnected or broken) 2. Lack of power to the motor (switch on the steering collumn), wiring damaged, fuse 3. Defective motor (least likely IMO) EScanlon has posted some good info on rebuilding the Wiper Pivots amd Operating rods. Try a search for these threads. Using Enriques info, I was able to rebuild the mechanical part of my Wiper System last summer. I started to prepare a very detailed, illustrated Tech Article on the project, but after it was about 2/3 complete, changes to the website rendered most of my work un-usable here. Maybe someday I'll find an alternate place to publish it, and will regain interest in completing the article.

WOW, Spoken like a true Senior Citizen!

Thanks, Gavin!

Hey Marc: I finally got rid of my problems that prevented me from biewing FLASH files, so I just viewed the animation. WAY FUNNY! Thanks. EDIT: Anybody know if there is a way to save this file to my local hard drive?

The BEST, only the BEST.

Only about Boxhead and Fiendstein.

50 Series is HIGH profile?? What is a LOW profile size?

.........FILM at 11 (This I gotta see)

Think you're gonna be pleased with what these sell for. Wish that everything sitting in my garage for 35 years was so valuable!

In the strictest sense of the word, they would not restorations, they would be modifications. Now on a early Zcar, someone MAY be able to hide the deception (since the color info is not coded into the VIN) if the work was done carefully enough, but it would still be what it is. The wrong color for a restoration of that specific car. I'm done.

When you use the word "RESTORED" it means that the car is as it was when it left the factory. If you change the color it is NOT RESTORED. Thus it makes a huge difference to the originality of the car. Even on a modified Z car, there is nothing uglier than opening the hood, or looking into a door jam, or lifting the carpets and seeing a different color from the exterior body panels. If you decide to paint the car, do it right and not half-assed.

Yeah, they look just like the Appliance Mesh wheels (except for the wrong center caps) on my second Z car (1971 model) Long gone.

This is a good example of the dreaded P.O. doing stuff back asswards! Fred Sanford engineering. :stupid: Wonder what else he might have screwed up like this? talk to beandip. He can help you with info on how to make it a "closed" system again, but without the vapor tank.

Read CAREFULLY guys. Those instruction are ones that I sent to Carl Beck. They are for the Tonneau Cover for a 76-78 280Z 2+2. The measurements will NOT be correct for a 240Z Tonneau cover as it is quite different. (much shorter). Taikaki was able to fit the 280Z 2+2 cover that I sold him to his 240Z, but it is not the same as the correct 240Z cover. Also, interesting to note that he has 2 hatch struts on his car. as for copyright.......................sue me!

.........unless you have the early type 4 speed transmission (which was still used for most of 1971)

On the Tonneau cover that I have, the cover attaches by simple snaps on one end (easy to source for production); and the other end uses a shock cord system that I have never seen on any other item. IMO, it would probably be very difficult to nearly impossible to source. That's not to say that some other system couldn't be used, but then then cover would not be a replica of the original.